It fluctuates like anything else, especially if you successfully released more crud with better brushing.A bit puzzled why OCLT has been failing when it was passing last week
It fluctuates like anything else, especially if you successfully released more crud with better brushing.A bit puzzled why OCLT has been failing when it was passing last week
I’m one of those that hates DE and wonder if it’s even useful to add it if you’re backwashing it out 15min later. I’m always afraid of it getting blown back into the water and clouding it up. Have you tried NOT using it for a bit?9pm last, FC =12.5. Added 4cups to bring it up to SLAM level of 16. Checked it an hour later FC was 19. That was weird. Somewhere last night, can’t remember if before first reading or second, I also replenished about an 1” of water lost from evap and backwashing. But if anything, that would’ve lowered FC, not raised it.
Pool looks a lot better this morning. Just starting to see the grid pattern of pool bottom.Gonna try to keep it at higher FC level today and retake CYA tonight.
FC was 17 this morning at 630A. Gonna leave it there since I think the CYA should be lower not higher than 40 measures last week from rain, backwash/evap refills. And pucks have been out for awhile. Unless there’s such thing as hibernating CYA that hides on bottom that I ‘awoken’ with my aggressive brushing.
I won the round with pool for weekend. Hoping to win the battle this week.
Thanks again, gang. You guys are great.
Been wondering the same a lot lately.I’m one of those that hates DE and wonder if it’s even useful to add it if you’re backwashing it out 15min later. I’m always afraid of it getting blown back into the water and clouding it up. Have you tried NOT using it for a bit?
Is your filter undersized for your pool? I’d be worried about the DE not getting fully captured by the filter media and then going back into the pool returns.Been wondering the same a lot lately.
It’s hit or miss. I can dump 2oz in and get a really productive dirty backwash once psi climbs to yellow on the gage, and then subsequent additions of DE right after sees same increase in psi for similar time duration, but backwash is clear. Have T solved that mystery yet. Since I’m still sometimes getting a good backwash from it, I’ll try it a little longer.
Not sure. Hope not! It’s the one that came with pool. Normally seems to do ok- except during this 100 year SLAM. Been running a paper filter backup from old 18’ Intex in addition to sand filterIs your filter undersized for your pool? I’d be worried about the DE not getting fully captured by the filter media and then going back into the pool returns.
Retook CYA with good daylight today. First I redid test with last week’s solution. It was between 30-40, much closer to 30. Retook with today’s water, it’s definitely 30 now. But pool was so much clearer this morning, I wasn’t going to tempt changing anything and stayed the course with higher FC. What’s interesting about the new clarity, is I can understand the mystery pockets of leave debris that still show up. Some of the tiny twigs are heavy enough to sink, but still super light that they just dance around the broom. But I see them now! They won’t be here much longer. That and a LOT of beetle carcasses. Dead beetles that won’t be lawn eating grubs later on.Do your cya test in the daytime, outdoors (a bright sunny day is best), with your back to the sun
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CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…www.troublefreepool.com
I was JUST thinking that today. I had some fun delays in my build and I was looking at the 60 degree temp on the dashboard this morning thinking that we wouldn't be swimming if the pool was finished. We had a hot spell but it cooled off quick the last couple of weeks.Of course now pool is FREEZING. It was 57deg yesterday morning
Good algae killin’ weather though.I was JUST thinking that today. I had some fun delays in my build and I was looking at the 60 degree temp on the dashboard this morning thinking that we wouldn't be swimming if the pool was finished. We had a hot spell but it cooled off quick the last couple of weeks.
So, having just dealt with milky pool that refused to clear for 2 weeks(albeit with different circumstances), I personally would try raising FC to around 25 for a couple of days and see what happens. Basically treat it as if it has mustard algae even if you haven't seen the signs. During my first 2 weeks I had fairly low FC usage after the initial bit and saw nothing yellow. Only after a slow water drain and exposed algae that wasn't bleached out white showed itself to be yellow that I jumped up my FC...there was some other scaling scrubbing at the time also...but my pool was still fully opaque after the first 6" even after a half water exchange. A couple/few days of mustard level FC and it magically started to clear. So, recap of my theory. You have mustard algae you are keeping bleached white, but not killing, so it continues to fill your pool. Higher FC for a couple days will kill it and your filtering/brushing/vacuuming will start working as you are expecting... I'm just passing through though...so could be completely wrong...good luck regardless...
**EDIT** Just saw the post where you said you can see bottom now...so perhaps my post isn't needed. Still won't hurt to hit those FC for a bit just in case... **EDIT**
I see bottom! Like *all* the bottom! Only tiniest bit of haze remains. (For now)That POP (pool owner patience) gets to every one!
We’re (your new random internet pool friends) are rooting for u ! Keep at it![]()
I watched mine turn the corner in real time. I started with the blind vacuuming, hoping I was even accomplishing anything. As it got less green, I saw a patch of crud not much bigger than the vac head and got the last bit out. I went blue in 2 minutes after getting it and from that point on, the FC held pretty well. It took some time for the filter to polish the water after that, but crud is a SLAM killer.Can see more of bottom today, and it’s clean as a whistle, save for a few sunken twigs. Kind of anticlimactic if you ask me.
After seeing in the latest stages just how small and lightweight the last remnants of crud were - I think pretty obvious to me now I should’ve invested in a vac sooner. Thought since I was getting such a volume of stuff to surface with brushing and then scooping that that was enough. But clear now that the twigs and clunky/dense squarish chunks of debris were never gonna float up. They had to o be laser targeted and extracted - or blind vacuumed.I watched mine turn the corner in real time. I started with the blind vacuuming, hoping I was even accomplishing anything. As it got less green, I saw a patch of crud not much bigger than the vac head and got the last bit out. I went blue in 2 minutes after getting it and from that point on, the FC held pretty well. It took some time for the filter to polish the water after that, but crud is a SLAM killer.
You likely had similar to me, but didn't realize when you got the last bit out.
Passing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
& cc’s 0.5 or below are only 2 of the 3 end of slam criteria.
Keep fc at slam level until the water is crystal clear.
No sense in going backwards now.
Also - when u get ALL 3 end of slam criteria met & return to maintenance levels - aim for the high fc targetfor your cya of 40 (which is 7ppm) & replenish at the low target (5ppm) FC/CYA Levels
This way u never approach minimum or entertaining the idea of falling below minimum - even with lots of uv & heavy bather loads u will have a buffer.
The goal is to absolutely, positively confirm algae is eradicated then always maintain fc properly thereafter so u never have algae again & never need to go through the SLAM Process again.