2002 Sundance Altamar FLO error

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Carnes99

Member
May 31, 2022
7
Canyon Lake, CA
I bought the spa used and just finished running power to it last week. Everything seems good, except I keep getting the FLO error. I thought it was the circ pump, but seems to be running fine. I have checked the flow switch and it is operating properly. I do not have the ozonator, so I connected the black pump wire to this to keep pump running for diagnostics. Pump runs and closes the flow switch, but I still get error. Does this mean my control board is bad? Not sure if this info is helpful, but while FLO is displayed (which stays on solid) I cannot do anything on the control panel. If I leave it in this state, it randomly runs which I’m assuming is the preset cycles. It heats when this is happening and one day I found it was up to 113°!!! 6AFD2F35-73E7-4C14-8B85-1D5709A46800.jpeg
 
A solid flo error means the switch is reading closed when it should be open. Flashing (alternating with temp) means it's open when it should be closed. Yours is reading closed before the circ pump is engaged, which could be because you wired it wrong for testing. It has it's own test that you just bypassed. But it is usually a shorted flow switch. Test it for continuity with the power off. If you have continuity it is bad. You'll find a crack on the plastic shaft of the switch most likely.
 
RDspaguy said:
A solid flo error means the switch is reading closed when it should be open. Flashing (alternating with temp) means it's open when it should be closed. Yours is reading closed before the circ pump is engaged, which could be because you wired it wrong for testing. It has it's own test that you just bypassed. But it is usually a shorted flow switch. Test it for continuity with the power off. If you have continuity it is bad. You'll find a crack on the plastic shaft of the switch most likely.
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I pulled the wires out of the plug and checked it in the open and closed position. Both are good, so I’m assuming flow switch is not the problem. When it is wired properly the circ pump starts to run, but suddenly stops and shows FLO even though the flow switch is closed.
 
The controller is reading closed when it expects open, that is what a solid flo means, so either the switch is bad or improperly wired, the circ pump is turning on when it shouldn't be, the e-prom is for a non-circ spa or is faulty, or the circuit board is faulty. The only common issue among these is the flow switch, which is notorious for this.
The fact that it turns the circ on and off eliminates the relay as the culprit. If it is the wrong eprom you can simply unplug the circ pump and the spa will work just fine without it, using the main pump instead. A faulty eprom will often have a visible melted spot, but not always. A bad board almost never fails in this manner, as you are discussing low-voltage circuits, but a bad transformer can damage it, as can a voltage spike (surge).
I'd test the transformer, unplug the circ, test the sensors, and replace the flow switch.
Also, I'm not sure how you tested the flow switch, but if you removed it from the water and housing your test is not valid.
 
RDspaguy said:
The controller is reading closed when it expects open, that is what a solid flo means, so either the switch is bad or improperly wired, the circ pump is turning on when it shouldn't be, the e-prom is for a non-circ spa or is faulty, or the circuit board is faulty. The only common issue among these is the flow switch, which is notorious for this.
The fact that it turns the circ on and off eliminates the relay as the culprit. If it is the wrong eprom you can simply unplug the circ pump and the spa will work just fine without it, using the main pump instead. A faulty eprom will often have a visible melted spot, but not always. A bad board almost never fails in this manner, as you are discussing low-voltage circuits, but a bad transformer can damage it, as can a voltage spike (surge).
I'd test the transformer, unplug the circ, test the sensors, and replace the flow switch.
Also, I'm not sure how you tested the flow switch, but if you removed it from the water and housing your test is not valid.
Click to expand...
To test the flow switch I disconnected J6 sensor plug. I removed the red and black wires from that plug which go to the flow switch. I used my meter for continuity and while the circulation pump was running I verified the switch was closed. I disconnected power and checked for continuity while there was no water flowing and did not get continuity. So I verified that the switch itself is working. Now that only verifies that I’m getting an open and a closed. Maybe the switch isn’t sensitive enough or maybe it’s too sensitive when water is flowing. If you truly believe I should change out the flow switch, then I will do that.
 
OK. I tried a couple more things and I think you may be right about the flow switch. (Shocker!!!) haha! I disconnected one wire for the flow switch from the J6 plug. Turned on power and was able to force the flashing FLO error. While the FLO error was flashing I was seeing the flow switch close and circ pump was running. Turned off power. This time instead of just checking for continuity, I ohm’d the switch. Closed is .01Ω and “open” is around 100Ω. I’m assuming that is way too low and should be closer to infinity/open load. Reconnected everything and and after turning on disconnect, FLO error arrives before circ pump ever runs. This leads me to believe it is slightly reading closed. Obviously if I turn on one of the jet pumps before the error, then everything runs fine because it is expecting a closed flow switch. I’ll buy the switch and report back.
 
Ok. Picked up a new switch at my local dealer. Checked the old flow switch again and was reading 21Ω when it should be open. The new switch read slightly over 2MΩ, so there’s some helpful info for anyone in the future. FLO error is gone, so thanks @RDspaguy

Thought I had a problem with the circ pump not running 24/7, but guess it turns off if water temp is more than 2° above set temp.
 
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