Hi everyone, I've been relying on the pool store, and today I finally started using my taylor kit. I haven't done all the tests but from what I can see my chemistry is out of whack (more so than previous pool store results indicated)
Now I tested the chlorine and PH with the taylor kit but I'm apparently missing a 7/14 mil bottle to test the CYA. For that I had to rely on aquacheck strips and the pool store
From taylor 2006c
FC 15 Turned off SWCG for at least a day will retest tomorrow
CC 0 (this could be a little higher but it was really hard to see any change to pink (seemed to stay clear) but when I dumped out the water there seemed a slight pink hue to it maybe this is normal)
PH 8.0 (this despite adding over a half gallon of "Klean Strip Green Muriatic Acid Gallon" that I bought at walmart over the past 3 weeks, I'm really not sure of it's effectiveness and I have some normal stuff I just bought at the pool store) I just dumped the last 1/4 gallon in today
So anyway I just wanted to see if there were any "gotcha's" when testing, #1 is there supposed to be an empty bottle with a 7 ml and 14 mil line for the CYA test in the taylor k-2006c test kit? #2 When testing for CC, it said if the color changes from clear to pink, it didn't seem to change at all, but when dumping out the water, there was still a little pinkish hue left, is that normal, I tested twice (once at the 10 and once at the 25 ml line) both times seemed to be FC 14/15 and CC 0. and #3 is that Klean strip some kind of crappy diluted Muriatic acid or is it normal for a new salt water pool to need 1/4 gallon per week, to note my pool is pool is only 10K gallons or so.
Anyway I used an aquachek strip to I could get an idea on CYA
on that my
PH was 7.8
FC 10 or 10+ I think 10 was the highest reading
TA 80
CYA looked between 100 and 150 (previous pool store rating was 60)
So I went to the pool store to confirm and got the following
FC 10+ (10 is their highest reading I think)
TC 10+ apparently indicating the same and no CC
Salt 3100
CH 200
CYA 100
TA 80
PH 8.0
acid 3
copper and iron 0
pho 100
The pool store owner indicated the previous CYA tests were not performed by him and that he didn't think 60 was accurate since I was using chlorine tabs previously. He also thinks that when Florida rain starts (if ever we're having quite a drought lately) that the CYA would naturally be reduced now that I was on a SWCG. He recommended turning off the SWG for at least a day and checking to bring down the FC. He didn't have an explanation how my FC jumped from 5 (the last 3 months) to 10-15 with the SWCG set to 23 the last few weeks. I think because my CYA is higher than I've been led to believe that my chlorine siply isn't breaking down as fast as it would. I was noticing last night with a still pool and the light on that my pool is so clear it appears like there is no water in it. So everything appears to be normal. Any insights would be appreciated.
Regards,
Tim
Now I tested the chlorine and PH with the taylor kit but I'm apparently missing a 7/14 mil bottle to test the CYA. For that I had to rely on aquacheck strips and the pool store
From taylor 2006c
FC 15 Turned off SWCG for at least a day will retest tomorrow
CC 0 (this could be a little higher but it was really hard to see any change to pink (seemed to stay clear) but when I dumped out the water there seemed a slight pink hue to it maybe this is normal)
PH 8.0 (this despite adding over a half gallon of "Klean Strip Green Muriatic Acid Gallon" that I bought at walmart over the past 3 weeks, I'm really not sure of it's effectiveness and I have some normal stuff I just bought at the pool store) I just dumped the last 1/4 gallon in today
So anyway I just wanted to see if there were any "gotcha's" when testing, #1 is there supposed to be an empty bottle with a 7 ml and 14 mil line for the CYA test in the taylor k-2006c test kit? #2 When testing for CC, it said if the color changes from clear to pink, it didn't seem to change at all, but when dumping out the water, there was still a little pinkish hue left, is that normal, I tested twice (once at the 10 and once at the 25 ml line) both times seemed to be FC 14/15 and CC 0. and #3 is that Klean strip some kind of crappy diluted Muriatic acid or is it normal for a new salt water pool to need 1/4 gallon per week, to note my pool is pool is only 10K gallons or so.
Anyway I used an aquachek strip to I could get an idea on CYA
on that my
PH was 7.8
FC 10 or 10+ I think 10 was the highest reading
TA 80
CYA looked between 100 and 150 (previous pool store rating was 60)
So I went to the pool store to confirm and got the following
FC 10+ (10 is their highest reading I think)
TC 10+ apparently indicating the same and no CC
Salt 3100
CH 200
CYA 100
TA 80
PH 8.0
acid 3
copper and iron 0
pho 100
The pool store owner indicated the previous CYA tests were not performed by him and that he didn't think 60 was accurate since I was using chlorine tabs previously. He also thinks that when Florida rain starts (if ever we're having quite a drought lately) that the CYA would naturally be reduced now that I was on a SWCG. He recommended turning off the SWG for at least a day and checking to bring down the FC. He didn't have an explanation how my FC jumped from 5 (the last 3 months) to 10-15 with the SWCG set to 23 the last few weeks. I think because my CYA is higher than I've been led to believe that my chlorine siply isn't breaking down as fast as it would. I was noticing last night with a still pool and the light on that my pool is so clear it appears like there is no water in it. So everything appears to be normal. Any insights would be appreciated.
Regards,
Tim
