Water Stop Pipe Sleeves - Opinions
- Thread starter John_and_Val
- Start date
John,
I think that 99.9% of pool leaks have nothing to do with where there sleeves are designed to fit.
Jim R.
I think that 99.9% of pool leaks have nothing to do with where there sleeves are designed to fit.
Jim R.
I am sorry. I don't understand what you are saying (other than these are not worth it!!!!)
Where are the popular leak points and how to avoid??
Where are the popular leak points and how to avoid??
John,
What I was trying to say is that most gunite pool leaks are not through the shell..
Most leaks are at the Skimmer, then at the light.
Then of course you can have pipe leaks outside your pool because of defective connections or breaks where someone cuts a pipe putting in a fence, etc.
Then, in some cases, the seal between the plaster and a pipe can let some water past the plaster, which would allow water to weep between the pipe and the gunite.
I am not saying they won't work, but if I had a leak, it would not be the first place I would look.
If you know for a fact that water is leaking at one of your return lines, then give it a try, but in my mind it would be better to use pool putty.
Let's see if we can get some of our other members to chime in.. They may have a different opinion..
Thanks,
Jim R.
- - - Updated - - -
Now that I look at these a little closer, it appears that they are put in before the plaster...
Are you just now building a new pool or are you wanting to use these as a "repair"??
What I was trying to say is that most gunite pool leaks are not through the shell..
Most leaks are at the Skimmer, then at the light.
Then of course you can have pipe leaks outside your pool because of defective connections or breaks where someone cuts a pipe putting in a fence, etc.
Then, in some cases, the seal between the plaster and a pipe can let some water past the plaster, which would allow water to weep between the pipe and the gunite.
I am not saying they won't work, but if I had a leak, it would not be the first place I would look.
If you know for a fact that water is leaking at one of your return lines, then give it a try, but in my mind it would be better to use pool putty.
Let's see if we can get some of our other members to chime in.. They may have a different opinion..
Thanks,
Jim R.
- - - Updated - - -
Now that I look at these a little closer, it appears that they are put in before the plaster...
Are you just now building a new pool or are you wanting to use these as a "repair"??
John
I have never heard of them being used before, but if they were cheap, I can't see any reason not to install them. (Like less than $5 bucks each)
Is this something the pool builder has recommended? If so, how much are they?
Thanks,
Jim R.
I have never heard of them being used before, but if they were cheap, I can't see any reason not to install them. (Like less than $5 bucks each)
Is this something the pool builder has recommended? If so, how much are they?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Pool Clown
In The Industry
In some areas, and types of pools, we are mandated to use these. They are to stop water intrusion between the exterior of the pipe and the plaster, or finish surface. Thinking is that you have two different materials that disapate heat, expand and contract, move, bla, bla, bla at different rates and therefore are at risk of separation. And, if you develop a leak at that point, the water will travel (path of least resistance) along the outside of the pipe until it hits soil, or daylights,
So (of course) you NEED their product.
Typically, we must use them on pools that are, in a vault, or on piers where the outside of the structure is exposed. Like say above parking structure where, if there is a leak, you wont get water to the parking area, and subsequently get a call from the owner... If you are using them on an in-ground pool it will be difficult to tell if they are working. IOW, if you develop a leak in that area, i doubt it will be a large enough one for you to experience a significant water loss, but i suppose with enough movement, anything is possible.
So (of course) you NEED their product.
Typically, we must use them on pools that are, in a vault, or on piers where the outside of the structure is exposed. Like say above parking structure where, if there is a leak, you wont get water to the parking area, and subsequently get a call from the owner... If you are using them on an in-ground pool it will be difficult to tell if they are working. IOW, if you develop a leak in that area, i doubt it will be a large enough one for you to experience a significant water loss, but i suppose with enough movement, anything is possible.
I posted the picture of the pipe sleeves....I am doing an owner builder on a pool and am getting ready to start excavation. So this is NOT a remodel!
If I glue these to the pipe, would it not give the gunite (pebble tec) better surface area to adhere to? And If I used it on all returns, M.D.'s and every pipe that goes in the shell - OR
If I understand how they plumb correctly .....there are three methods? One is placing the pipe through the form and steel and they shoot gunite around it. (which I think would leak eventually just do to poor contact and adhesion)
The other is the gunite people leave a space between the pipe and gunite so it can be filled with hydraulic cement
or core drill holes after gunite and then hydraulic cement.
whats the best method?
If I glue these to the pipe, would it not give the gunite (pebble tec) better surface area to adhere to? And If I used it on all returns, M.D.'s and every pipe that goes in the shell - OR
If I understand how they plumb correctly .....there are three methods? One is placing the pipe through the form and steel and they shoot gunite around it. (which I think would leak eventually just do to poor contact and adhesion)
The other is the gunite people leave a space between the pipe and gunite so it can be filled with hydraulic cement
or core drill holes after gunite and then hydraulic cement.
whats the best method?
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