New build - Katy, TX (near Houston)

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I did some more late night TFP reading last night and compiled a list of things to check with my PB:

1. Check the sun deck depth. I want at least 9-10".
2. Bury an extra PVC pipe with electric wire around the pool for future landscaping projects and etc.
3. Ask if the bubbler on sun deck is connected to the water feature pump or the main pump. Preference would be with the water feature pump.
4. Ask if spa can be heated and used without the spa water spilling over to the pool. With the correct plumbing this can be achieved...
 
May I ask who you are using? I am about to start a repair (new thread coming soon!) that is so involved we may as well call it a remodel. I'm in the Katy area. I am very interested in SWCG and know exactly what you're talking about - I have had pool guys flat out tell me that SW is useless. Be great to talk to someone that doesn't feel that way.
 
jaymantx said:
I did some more late night TFP reading last night and compiled a list of things to check with my PB:

1. Check the sun deck depth. I want at least 9-10".
2. Bury an extra PVC pipe with electric wire around the pool for future landscaping projects and etc.
3. Ask if the bubbler on sun deck is connected to the water feature pump or the main pump. Preference would be with the water feature pump.
4. Ask if spa can be heated and used without the spa water spilling over to the pool. With the correct plumbing this can be achieved...
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Good questions. On number 4 - that should be standard "spa mode" operation on any pool with a spa. Not quite as common and what I would suggest to check is that he can plumb it so that you can also run in "pool mode" but without running the spa spillover at all.
Usually there are two modes that are operated the most: (1) spa mode which only circulates the spa and keeps the pool out of the loop entirely and (2) pool mode which circulates the pool but also returns some water into the spa creating the spillover. It can be useful sometimes to also be able to circulate the pool only with the spa out of the loop entirely. Our PB didn't put that third option in. It's not a big deal and it's not too hard to retrofit (requires one more valve), but had I known then what I know now I would have checked to ensure this was built into our pool....which is also in Katy by the way.
 
I'll PM you shortly.

kraezday said:
May I ask who you are using? I am about to start a repair (new thread coming soon!) that is so involved we may as well call it a remodel. I'm in the Katy area. I am very interested in SWCG and know exactly what you're talking about - I have had pool guys flat out tell me that SW is useless. Be great to talk to someone that doesn't feel that way.
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Thanks for the information! In what situation would you need that third option?

OrangeAndBlue said:
Good questions. On number 4 - that should be standard "spa mode" operation on any pool with a spa. Not quite as common and what I would suggest to check is that he can plumb it so that you can also run in "pool mode" but without running the spa spillover at all.
Usually there are two modes that are operated the most: (1) spa mode which only circulates the spa and keeps the pool out of the loop entirely and (2) pool mode which circulates the pool but also returns some water into the spa creating the spillover. It can be useful sometimes to also be able to circulate the pool only with the spa out of the loop entirely. Our PB didn't put that third option in. It's not a big deal and it's not too hard to retrofit (requires one more valve), but had I known then what I know now I would have checked to ensure this was built into our pool....which is also in Katy by the way.
Click to expand...
 
I just spoke to PB.. Currently, steel beams for sun deck are setup for 6" water depth. PB's concern is that first step into the pool might be too high for kids and elders if water depth is 9-10"... With 6" water depth, I believe the first step height is about 10~11"... if water depth is 9", first step height becomes 13~14"... HMM... Something to think about...

kimkats said:
Yeah the knowledge of TFP is powerful. You get what you WANT instead of what they usually do! Good job reading and learning.

Don't forget the make it WATER depth instead of from floor to bottom of coping.

Kim:kim:
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jaymantx said:
Thanks for the information! In what situation would you need that third option?
Click to expand...

If you've just heated up the spa using the spa mode and now people want to swim in the pool for a while, it would be nice to turn the pool circulation on and keep the heater off without immediately cooling down your spa again by mixing it with cold water from the pool. Admittedly this is not all that common of a requirement, hence "nice to have".
More beneficial, and possible with automation on all your valves and a efficient VS pump: With this option available you can run the pool for a long time to keep the SWG producing chlorine and stop the spa spillover from time to time throughout the daily program. The spillover running produces aeration and that increases your pH, so being able to leave that off during part of the daily program is nice to control pH rise.
 
It totally makes sense! Thank you for the insight!

OrangeAndBlue said:
If you've just heated up the spa using the spa mode and now people want to swim in the pool for a while, it would be nice to turn the pool circulation on and keep the heater off without immediately cooling down your spa again by mixing it with cold water from the pool. Admittedly this is not all that common of a requirement, hence "nice to have".
More beneficial, and possible with automation on all your valves and a efficient VS pump: With this option available you can run the pool for a long time to keep the SWG producing chlorine and stop the spa spillover from time to time throughout the daily program. The spillover running produces aeration and that increases your pH, so being able to leave that off during part of the daily program is nice to control pH rise.
Click to expand...
 

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Sure enough gunite company is backed up, so my gunite got pushed back from Tuesday (tomorrow) to Wednesday. I am just hoping they don't postpone again... There's rain in the forecast starting Thursday, so if I can get my gunite done by Wednesday, I will be extremely happy...

Steel beam crew came out to fix the infinity edge goof up today. Took less than 30 minutes to add more beams around the spa hoses.

Before:
41804621595_3e6992b410_b.jpg


After:
27873035587_5d32683b0f_b.jpg


I just figured out that this frame is for my equipment pad.. I saw it several days ago, but I didn't realize this until today... LOL Size is 3' X 8'... I am not sure if this is standard size or too small...

27873035357_39efa78d4f_b.jpg
 
I’m in Katy, too, and am getting quotes right now. The pool builder I met with also draws his out on graph paper. I bet it’s the same one! �� So far his design is my favorite! My brother also used him to build his pool and loved his work.
 
LOL, Apparently there aren't that many PBs left who actually draw out a pool on paper. I actually had 2 PBs who pulled out graph paper and start drawing very swiftly. Was that PB Doug or Kenneth?


Txamu01 said:
I’m in Katy, too, and am getting quotes right now. The pool builder I met with also draws his out on graph paper. I bet it’s the same one! �� So far his design is my favorite! My brother also used him to build his pool and loved his work.
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No, not yet...

kimkats said:
Do you have the equipment there yet? If so you can use a rope to make that size by where your equipment is and see what you think about the size.

Kim:kim:
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jaymantx said:
Good idea, but I am not sure if I want another step made on 5'X7' sun deck. Based on how the dig was done. I'll sleep on it... LOL
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I would definitely recommend it. It's very easy for them to just add in when they come and do the gunite and they don't need any more rebar structure for one simple step. We have a sun shelf that has about just under 12" of water depth and it is the main entrance point into the pool. Without using that extra little step there, it is a really awkward step into the pool. The kids never use it, but all adults do and it doesn't take up much space on our fairly small the sun shelf. I'm definitely glad we added it and also am super happy that we went with a deeper sun shelf instead of just 6".

Capture.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing the picture! I consider myself a minimalist when it comes to designs... my gut feeling is rejecting another step... Yeah, I'm pretty weird like that. :p I have more time to think about this thanks to gunite company... time to sleep on it more...

OrangeAndBlue said:
I would definitely recommend it. It's very easy for them to just add in when they come and do the gunite and they don't need any more rebar structure for one simple step. We have a sun shelf that has about just under 12" of water depth and it is the main entrance point into the pool. Without using that extra little step there, it is a really awkward step into the pool. The kids never use it, but all adults do and it doesn't take up much space on our fairly small the sun shelf. I'm definitely glad we added it and also am super happy that we went with a deeper sun shelf instead of just 6".

View attachment 80262
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Call me crazy, but I decided to play a construction worker to prepare for gunite shooting tomorrow... I climbed into the pool dig site, and cleaned out some construction debris and big dirt pieces that might compromise the gunite thickness... :D I also propped up some areas of the steel beams with brick pieces, so the steel beams are evenly suspended ~4" above the floor. Clumsy me managed to scratch my ankle on a nail... I believe I got my last tetanus shot 5 years ago, so I should be OK... I hope.. LOL

My PB called at 10:30PM to discuss the possible swapping of travertine scuppers with sheer descend devices... During the discussion PB put me on hold to pick up his business partner's call... 5 minutes later, PB comes back on the phone, and drops a bad news... Apparently the gunite company just informed them that they can't make it tomorrow.

PB is upset that gunite company "texted" so late to inform them the delay... PB is going to find out early tomorrow what happened... PB is guessing an equipment breakdown... Hopefully a miracle happens and gunite is back on tomorrow, or I am OK with Thursday. Once gunite is finished, PB and his partner own plumbing, electrical, and coping subcontractor companies... So, PB is assuring me that this sort of subcontractor related delays won't happen...
 
I went to PB's showroom to pick out stones and tiles. I initially went for the ivory travertine for the coping and decking, and silver split face tiles for the raised walls as shown below:

27919079177_c616de8d85_b.jpg


Freska limestone sample was there, but it was a bad sample with weird yellow stain on it... After I came home, the more I thought about it, the more I wanted freska limestone for both coping and decking..
I just texted my PB that I want Freka limestone.. I hope I made the right decision...

For the waterline tile and the infinity edge spillover area I went with the NPT Arctic Lagoon AT083 that seems to be the fan favorite on here.. LOL
I got this pic from the internet... My PB didn't have a sample, but confirmed that his tile supplier had them in stock.

40977551030_4277c1f510_b.jpg


Still waiting to hear back from the gunite company. Apparently their equipment broke down... UGH...
 

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