16 July 2024 Finishing Up my OB Pool

[Turbo1Ton]

Looking great!

I was able to view the video.

--Jeff

 

[setsailsoon]

Bubbler lights need to be compatible with your automation light control and other pool lights.

Thanks Alan. That's definitely a consideration. My base plan is to go with a Raspberry Pi set up like @Katodude has done... in fact he's already got one programmed for me. Really seems fantastic. Just in case I can't get it working I'm setting up the panel with an Intellicenter capable box. Robin hates it when I tinker with RPi' and arduino stuff so the Intellicenter box is a compromise. So this has me liking the Pentair version. Looks like there are more aftermarket retrofits for Pentair if I have trouble with them. Their bubbler uses globrites. This is one of those tough decisions because I find lot of posts loving and hating both brands!

Chris

 

[ajw22]

Thanks Alan. That's definitely a consideration. My base plan is to go with a Raspberry Pi set up like @Katodude has done... in fact he's already got one programmed for me. Really seems fantastic. Just in case I can't get it working I'm setting up the panel with an Intellicenter capable box. Robin hates it when I tinker with RPi' and arduino stuff so the Intellicenter box is a compromise. So this has me liking the Pentair version. Looks like there are more aftermarket retrofits for Pentair if I have trouble with them. Their bubbler uses globrites. This is one of those tough decisions because I find lot of posts loving and hating both brands!

Chris

If you are going with Pentair Microbrite lights or their equivalent in the pool then do Pentair bubblers and the same lights in the bubblers. Pentair has the Globrite to Microbrite adapter so any compatible light should fit in the bubbler.

 

[setsailsoon]

If you are going with Pentair Microbrite lights or their equivalent in the pool then do Pentair bubblers and the same lights in the bubblers. Pentair has the Globrite to Microbrite adapter so any compatible light should fit in the bubbler.

Thanks much! For the rest of the pool Microbrite?

 

[ajw22]

Thanks much! For the rest of the pool Microbrite?

We had that discussion somewhere above about using the Jandy P Series equivalent to the Microbrites.

 

[setsailsoon]

Alan, That's right, I think I remember will go take a look. Thank you.

 

[setsailsoon]

Folks we should be winding down the steel and forming work tomorrow. Getting ready to shoot gunite next week. A question has come up about the enclosure. We plan to do this much like we did the last one with a structural gutter on the edge of the patio so we have the pool and patio fully enclosed. Difference will be on the back side of the pool since we have an Infinity edge there we can't just go straight across. I'm thinking we have the base of the enclosure frame fastened to the top edge of the basin wall in the back that is behind the Infinity edge. The only thing I think we have to do is frame up a maintenance door so I can get into the basin. Also, I think the basin walls are only 6 in wide and the aluminum frame base will barely fit so I might need to increase the width a couple of inches. Does this make sense to you all? Weird to be thinking about this right now but I'd like to avoid having to come back to pour concrete. Incremental gunite is much cheaper than remobilizing a concrete crew. Fortunately the engineer that stamped my pool drawings is the same one that does the structural design for the winning bidder on the enclosure so I don't have different engineers duking it out on personal preferences at my expense.

****EDIT**** photo below may help clarify this question.
Chris

@kimkats I'm pretty sure you will remember the discussion we had over a year ago about picture window effect. We will be doing that on this pool making the entire rear section one big picture window. I was surprised that it was not that much more expensive.

 

[setsailsoon]

Made a lot of progress on the exterior walls. We still have a lot of rebar to go.

 

[JamesW]

Make sure that all rebar is capped so that no one gets impaled.

 

[bdavis466]

Folks we should be winding down the steel and forming work tomorrow. Getting ready to shoot gunite next week. A question has come up about the enclosure. We plan to do this much like we did the last one with a structural gutter on the edge of the patio so we have the pool and patio fully enclosed. Difference will be on the back side of the pool since we have an Infinity edge there we can't just go straight across. I'm thinking we have the base of the enclosure frame fastened to the top edge of the basin wall in the back that is behind the Infinity edge. The only thing I think we have to do is frame up a maintenance door so I can get into the basin. Also, I think the basin walls are only 6 in wide and the aluminum frame base will barely fit so I might need to increase the width a couple of inches. Does this make sense to you all? Weird to be thinking about this right now but I'd like to avoid having to come back to pour concrete. Incremental gunite is much cheaper than remobilizing a concrete crew. Fortunately the engineer that stamped my pool drawings is the same one that does the structural design for the winning bidder on the enclosure so I don't have different engineers duking it out on personal preferences at my expense.

****EDIT**** photo below may help clarify this question.
Chris

@kimkats I'm pretty sure you will remember the discussion we had over a year ago about picture window effect. We will be doing that on this pool making the entire rear section one big picture window. I was surprised that it was not that much more expensive.

View attachment 555698

If you know where the enclosure posts are going to be located on the basin wall then what about beefing up that section to form a plaster at each post (16x16 or so)?

I think a door into the basin would be practical but unsightly and in the rare occasion that you would need to get into it you could just climb over the edge or use a pole and net to scoop out the macaroni noodles and beer cans that went over the falls.

 

[kimkats]

I don't really understand where you are saying you are thinking of putting the frame. Can you draw a red line where it will go?

I LOVE you are getting the picture window wall! No way you want to block any of that view!

 

[setsailsoon]

I don't really understand where you are saying you are thinking of putting the frame. Can you draw a red line where it will go?

I LOVE you are getting the picture window wall! No way you want to block any of that view!

Sure,

I think this should help. Keep in mind the height of the patio ceiling is 12'. The screen connects to the new structural gutter at the outer edge of the patio and drops down to 10' around the paver edges then turns in to the edge of the basin where it drops ~ 3' down to the top of the basin. The maint. access door is a small door just large enough to provide a way to climb in the 3' wide basin. The large area above the pool and paver area will be stiffened with triangular shaped panels that are slightly raised. I'm sure I'm not describing them quite right but this is very common for most enclosures for the "roof" of the enclosure.

I'll work on an end view later today that will show how we make the transition from the 12' high patio gutter to the 10' section and then the final drop to the basin for the last 3' or so. The maint access door is low enough that it's not visible from the patio.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

 

[setsailsoon]

If you know where the enclosure posts are going to be located on the basin wall then what about beefing up that section to form a plaster at each post (16x16 or so)?

I think a door into the basin would be practical but unsightly and in the rare occasion that you would need to get into it you could just climb over the edge or use a pole and net to scoop out the macaroni noodles and beer cans that went over the falls.

Brad,

I'm so glad you said this. That was the exact same thing I said to my wife! But she insisted and it's actually not visible because it's only 3' high and connects to the basin which is 3' below the pool surface. So I figured there were bigger battles to fight. Good idea on the posts. I'll loo;k into this. I may need to make the basin wall a little thicker too. It's a field change and I hate those but may be needed and I don't have time for a cycle through the enclosure structural engineer. So I'll just do it today or tomorrow before the forming and steel guy finishes.

Chris

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Single egress doors or double-wide? I would suggest having at least one entrance into the screened off patio be as wide and tall as you can possibly make it while keeping the aesthetic you like so that when you have to move in the 16 ft tall faux-David statue/fountain, the delivery guys can do that without having to removing structural elements of the cage. Just don't forget to get the fig-leaf covering for poor old David ... you don't want to go offending the delicate sensibilities of your neighbors ...

 

[setsailsoon]

29 Feb Update - slight over-excavation on the sundeck

Made a lot of progress on the steel and noticed the sundeck was way too short. Turns out it was over excavated several feet. So we had to back fill. Easy way to do this is to fill sandbags to make a wall then back fill and compact behind it. First photo shows this from the opposite end. Took about 60 bags and will be easy to fill plus compact in another hour or so. Other photos can be zoomed in on the way the wire cages will be held off the paper wall so rebar meets the speck of 3" off at all places. We'll place pieces of rock under the floor rebar mat also.

Chris

 

[JoyfulNoise]

…We'll place pieces of rock under the floor rebar mat also.

Around here they use “special” chunks of concrete called “chairs” for the rebar to sit on. I’ve seen some people splurge and buy the chairs made out of plastic that snap tight onto the rebar crosses. I’d be worried that chunks of rock would get kicked out or blown away by the shotcrete hose … maybe the special chairs are not SOP in your neck of the woods ….

 

[setsailsoon]

Around here they use “special” chunks of concrete called “chairs” for the rebar to sit on. I’ve seen some people splurge and buy the chairs made out of plastic that snap tight onto the rebar crosses. I’d be worried that chunks of rock would get kicked out or blown away by the shotcrete hose … maybe the special chairs are not SOP in your neck of the woods ….

Matt, Thanks for noticing this. That's what I've seen and used for all the concrete I've done. The ones I like are standoffs that attach to the rebar at the top so it's harder to knock them over, But even those get washed off with the concrete pump so I have a guy with a hook on the end of a pole that picks up the rebar mat as concrete or gunite covers it. I have some square 3" thick pavers that we plan to donate to the cause for this. Also to @JamesW point the rebar tops that are uncovered make my blood boil. This is so typical of pool and residential construction - safety is way behind. I actually ordered two boxes of bright orange rebar caps but they haven't gotten here yet. Plan to donate them to the sub. Nice to see people are picking up these details here at least!

Chris

 

[JoyfulNoise]

There were many empty plastic soda bottle all over my pool’s rebar when the forms were done … I was appalled … and I had little kids at the time. The builder came right out and fixed it but it seems to be a common oversight by these subs.

 

[setsailsoon]

One other little item that I forgot to mention. My RPi boards came. These will sit inside my relay box for the controls. Amazing to me these little cheap boards can do waaaaay more than the fancy and expensive Intellicenter. One board is the processor and several output/input pins and the channels are on the other board that is "stacked" on top to provide 8 channels more. @Katodude tells me I can stack up to 8 of these boards if I want to expand. Here's the really neat thing about this concept - the processor is very powerful and can do way more sophisticated things than the intellicenter with some fairly easy programming. Cost for these boards is ~$150. Additional 8 relay boards are ~$45 each. It's "Alexa" friendly and has a remote internet connection feature also. I'm sure it will take a lot of learning on my part to fully implement but Katodude has already programmed one set for basic control for me. I'll be able to build a mock-up on my workbench with valve actuators and temp sensors to make sure I have it figured out while I wait for the concrete to fully cure.

Chris

 

[kimkats]

That drawing really helped me know where you are putting the edge of the cage. If the wife thinks an access door is needed then so be it BUT can't you just get into the it from the pool side?