Richmond TX new build; 2 days in and Gunite is already done

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You can set them out to dry out IF you have a well ventilated area and some thing to put them on that you don't care if you have to throw it away as they bleach it out or start rust if it is metal. You can always put them in a zip lock bag and throw them out in your trash but do NOT leave them inside the house just in case the bag leaks as they are very strong smelling when wet.

Use care when you go to get them out of the tube. Do not lean right over the tube when you open it as there might be fumes in there.

Kim:kim:
 
ocmagnum, sorry I am late for the party but your pool build looks great and such a short time. Now the work has just begun as you need to work on a summer kitchen, outdoor speakers, TV, fire pit etc. :cheers:
 
Brentr said:
ocmagnum, sorry I am late for the party but your pool build looks great and such a short time. Now the work has just begun as you need to work on a summer kitchen, outdoor speakers, TV, fire pit etc. :cheers:
Click to expand...

:D Don't give me any ideas...

Retested today after adding the 10% liquid chlorine yesterday and updated results below (with yesterday's in parenthesis)

FC 4 (1)
CC 0 (0)
CYA below 20 (below 20)
PH 6.8 etching towards 7 (below 6.8)
TA 20 (20)
CH 225 (200)

I plan on adding the about 3 lbs of dry stabilizer tonight. Do I need to let the pump run on high with the sock hanging method or are lower levels just fine? Also for how long do you normally let the pump go while adding stabilizer?

Also thinking that I will pick up a 5 lbs bag of baking soda tomorrow to start addressing TA over the next few days. Result was exactly the same as yesterday and I was extra careful with this test today to assure yesterday was not user error.

Didn't get to take out the tabs today, but turned it down to 1 for now and will hopefully get a chance over the next few days. Am I hurting anything by letting them run on low for a few more days?

Thanks again for all the wisdom.
 
You can leave the tabs in there if you like but they are acidic which is keeping you pH low and your TA dangerously low. You need some baking soda soon.

You can hang the sock(s) in front of the return with your normal pump rate. You do not need to run it all night or anything. They can hang there without the pump running. Squeezing them with your hand a few times really speeds up the process. Just be sure no granules escape the sock as if they sit on your plaster they can bleach it out potentially.
 
Day 3 of "self managing" the pool. Added 3 lbs of dry stabilizer last night (hanging sock in front of return) and 6 lbs baking soda at lunch.

Got the following results testing the water at dinner time (yesterday's result in parenthesis)

FC 3 (4)
CC 0 (0)
CYA calling it a 27, def closer to 30 (below 20)
PH 7.5 (6.8)
TA 80 (20)
CH 225 (225)

Would you recommend I continue adding stabilizer already or should I wait for the SWG to come online later this week?

Thanks!
 
O,

I would not add any more CYA right now... It often takes a week for it to get fully dissolved so wait a few days and test again..

You can run your SWCG with a CYA of only 30 this time a year, but need to get it up to 70 or 80 before the summer gets here..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Just a quick update on how things are going.

Took the tabs out Tuesday night, but left the inline chlorinator system on to continue water flowing through it. Had the following measurements last night (results from two night ago in parenthesis):

FC 1.5 (3)
CC 0 (0)
CYA 27 (27)
PH 8.2 (7.5)
TA 80 (80)
CH 200 (225)

Added liquid chlorine per pool math last night and plan on adding some MA tonight to bring pH back down.

My thoughts are that things are starting to become somewhat predictable; i.e. pH is still volatile because new plaster and low CYA, FC of course needs to be replenished but other values are fairly stable for now, even if still at low level for CYA and CH.

The SWG is coming online on Friday; anything specific I should be on the look out for the days after it's turned on?

Otherwise my plan is to further increase CYA step by step on a weekly basis and also carefully start raising CH in little increments.

Thanks!
 
CYA is in steps of 10. The vial is not linear so you can not 'guess' between gradations. When testing, fill to a gradation, say 80, glance for the dot, if there, fill to 70, glance, repeat until you cannot see the dot.
 

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mknauss said:
CYA is in steps of 10. The vial is not linear so you can not 'guess' between gradations. When testing, fill to a gradation, say 80, glance for the dot, if there, fill to 70, glance, repeat until you cannot see the dot.
Click to expand...

Understood; so do you call it 20 even if it's much closer to the 30 line? I mostly wanted to show that it increased after my initial adding of stabilizer as it initially was likely below 20 (i.e. the vial was full and could still see dot)
 
The test does not read below 30. So if you see the dot at 30, then you have less than 30. You need to add CYA at that point. If you have known water, like from a fresh fill, you know how much CYA you have added via CYA powder, Trichlor, or dichlor. Add it up via Effects of Adding Chemicals in PoolMath. As you have a SWCG, you should be aiming for 70-80 ppm CYA.
 
Thanks Marty; very good to know that the test can't read below 30; since the vial has a 20 line, I would have assumed it's reliable down to 20.

But absolutely, I will increase CYA over the next few weeks (don't want to do it in one big load and potentially overshoot).

Going back to my original question quickly, anything specific I need to watch as the SWG comes online? I'll of course continue to monitor all the numbers, just wondering if there is anything in particular that can be tricky when turning the SWG on the first time.
 
I am mistaken, the TF100 vial does read to 20, but really a low end CYA for an outdoor pool is 30 ppm.

The Taylor vial reads only to 30.

Take care.
 
O,

Just make sure the salt is in 24 hours before the SWCG is turned on.... The salt needs to completely mix before firing up the cell..

The water temp generally needs to be above 50 to 55 degrees before a SWCG will work.. In your location, that may not be an issue...

The salt readings provided by a cell are not as accurate when the water temp is low, so don't rely on it for making any salt additions... But, you need to make the cell happy for it to work... For me, this means initially adding salt to get to the middle of the salt range for my SWCG using the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit... Then... if the cell thinks the salt level is too low (because of the cold water) I will add just enough salt to get the cell working.. Within reason of course... if the salt level is at 4000 ppm and the cell only thinks the salt level is 2000, something is wrong..

I say this because my first year I added salt based on the cell and added way too much.. You could taste it, which should not be the case...

Once the cell is running, keep testing your FC level and adjust the cell output or your pump run time so that the FC level is where you want... I always shoot for the high end.. Keep in mind as the weather get warmer and sunnier, you will need to adjust the cell so that your FC stays stable... the cell has no brain.. you are the cell's brain and need to tell it how much chlorine to produce..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
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