Clear Pool Turned Green after Pump died

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C

Chris W

0
Sep 23, 2016
44
Morganton, NC
Hi all,
Up till now my wife has been doing most of the upkeep on the pool, except opening and closing, and she has been using a local pool store, although they are different than most, they are independent and don't preach any of the "name brand" products and they use a Taylor kit for all their testing.
They (or my wife) have had us on EZ-Pool the last 2 or 3 years.
Also using 3” Chlorine pucks (99% Trichloro-s-triazinetrione, 90% Avail Chlorine)
When Shock is needed, it is 73% Calcium Hypochlorite (Min 70% Chlorine Available)
They buy the following in bulk and sale us what is needed in zip lock bags:
Calcium Chloride to increase Calcium Hardness
Sodium Bisulfate to lower PH
Granular Cyanuric Acid Stabilizer
Sodium Bicarbonate for Alkalinity


I Was late closing the pool this year, and unfortunately before I could close it the 7yo pump died, can't complain.
It took over a week to get a new one, and Algae has taken hold. Evidently the pool wasn't in as good condition as we thought.

I know I can do this myself, with help from TFP, and it be a lot cheaper than EZ-Pool and Chlorine tabs.

But first I need to get it cleared up and either close it, or leave it open for the winter, which we have never done.
I have already ordered the TF100 XL kit + magnetic stirrer, it should be here tomorrow or Thurs.
I have already bought 8.25% Bleach, Baking Soda, and Borax.


This is my plan:
Get good readings for all the tests
Adjust CYA if needed
Adjust PH if needed
SLAM


Just wanted to make sure I am on the right track and welcome any advice, I will post my test results when I get them.


Thanks in Advance


Chris
 
If you have been using the 3" pucks for the last couple years and haven't done any significant drain and refills then your CYA (Cyanuric acid) is going to be sky high. You might want to start thinking about at least one partial drain and refill to lower it.

You can start by adding 2 gallons of bleach to the pool today and one gallon each day until your test kit shows up. Once we know where your CYA is we can figure out a plan of action.

In the mean time read through these:
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
SLAM Process
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
Don't toss your store receipts yet- you may not need any Borax or Baking soda. This is a common confusion to folks who have heard of "BBB" but that's an outdated term now. We call our method the TFPC method. It really is Trouble Free!

Maddie :flower:
 
Thanks for the info, read all of those and a bunch more!!
I will start adding the bleach today when I get home.
No issue with drain and refill, I am on city water, but you'd call me liar if told you how much it cost to completely fill it up when it was installed. It was so cheap!! Plus I have a hydrant right off of the main line before the pressure reducer filled the pool in 13 hrs !!

Should I test my tap water?

Thanks again.
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Don't toss your store receipts yet- you may not need any Borax or Baking soda. This is a common confusion to folks who have heard of "BBB" but that's an outdated term now. We call our method the TFPC method. It really is Trouble Free!

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...

No problem, didn't 'Stock Up' just 12 lbs of baking soda and borax, $14 total :)

So you're telling me we have been wasting money on EZ-Pool ??
 
Chris W said:
So you're telling me we have been wasting money on EZ-Pool ??
Click to expand...


Most likely. The all-in-one treatments add things you do not need and too much of some you need. You can get everything you need at Walmart, Home Depot, and the grocery store.

Take care.
 
Chris W said:
No problem, didn't 'Stock Up' just 12 lbs of baking soda and borax, $14 total :)

So you're telling me we have been wasting money on EZ-Pool ??
Click to expand...

Well ummmmm... :oops:

EZ Pool contains a lot of copper which you do NOT want to be putting in your pool. Causes lots of staining and green hair problems, but the pool store will sell you attempts to fix it, and in the end you'll want to just drain and refill to get rid of all that copper.

Single ingredient chemicals ("bleach", "CYA", "baking soda" etc) are far easier to use and cause the least problems. Easy to measure and add, and cheap! Plus they don't add anything you don't want to the pool , capisce?

Sooooo... you're planning on a refill any time soon??

Maddie :flower:
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Well ummmmm... :oops:

EZ Pool contains a lot of copper which you do NOT want to be putting in your pool. Causes lots of staining and green hair problems, but the pool store will sell you attempts to fix it, and in the end you'll want to just drain and refill to get rid of all that copper.

Single ingredient chemicals ("bleach", "CYA", "baking soda" etc) are far easier to use and cause the least problems. Easy to measure and add, and cheap! Plus they don't add anything you don't want to the pool , capisce?

Sooooo... you're planning on a refill any time soon??

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...

So that is why with EZ pool, it even says on their website, you need to use Revive when you open your pool, to remove the stuff that was put into the pool with EZ-pool.

I will do what ever I have to do to. Drain, refill, what ever it takes. ☺️
 
No idea what Revive is -- but the only way to get rid of the copper is to get rid of the water with the copper in it.

Good luck.
 
Chris W said:
So that is why with EZ pool, it even says on their website, you need to use Revive when you open your pool, to remove the stuff that was put into the pool with EZ-pool.

I will do what ever I have to do to. Drain, refill, what ever it takes. ☺️
Click to expand...

Hello and Welcome to TFP!
Tough luck with the pump. Hopefully you have a working pump installed now.
It's a bad system when they recommend you buy their products for the sole purpose of removing the "unwanted" stuff in their products.

Its likely you have high CYA and copper. Unfortunately the only way to remove CYA and copper is through water drain & replace. You can wait until you get your test kit to check the initial CYA. It's likely you will have to do the diluted CYA test to get the true CYA value. Any reading over 100 isn't accurate without doing the dilution test. See this post #8 and Note9 of that post. It will be unrealistic to do a SLAM with a high CYA. It takes a very high FC level and a lot of testing reagents.
The "do whatever it takes" is to only use bleach as your method of adding chlorine. It's easy & cheap and doesn't add any unwanted stuff to your pool. You can use generic, unscented, non-splashless bleach from your favorite grocery store or Walmart. Check the label, it is marked as 8.25% Sodium Hypochlorite.
We also recommend using muriatic acid to lower the pH. The powdered pH down product (Sodium Bisulfate) isn't the best choice since it adds sulfates.
It sounds like you have done some reading here, so great to hear that. Ask any questions you have. You can us this thread to keep it all together.
 

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mknauss said:
No idea what Revive is -- but the only way to get rid of the copper is to get rid of the water with the copper in it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

From API's Website
REVIVE! is a multi-action product that removes phosphates (algae food), metals including copper and iron, scaling carbonates, organic debris and other contaminants that cause cloudy water. It is formulated for use on new pool startups, replaster / remodel / refills, spring openings, abandoned pools, severe algae cleanups and ongoing maintenance of all swimming pools.
It is an API product, the same company of EZ-Pool.

EZ-Pool
Active Ingredients: 1.60% Copper sulfate (pentahydrate)
Inactive Ingredients: By U.S. law, only active ingredients (AIs) are reported.

They sell you something that puts stuff in your pool, then sell you the stuff to take it out before you start the next year!! :grrrr:

- - - Updated - - -

AftonJeeper said:
If you have been using the 3" pucks for the last couple years and haven't done any significant drain and refills then your CYA (Cyanuric acid) is going to be sky high. You might want to start thinking about at least one partial drain and refill to lower it.

You can start by adding 2 gallons of bleach to the pool today and one gallon each day until your test kit shows up. Once we know where your CYA is we can figure out a plan of action.

In the mean time read through these:
[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
SLAM Process
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Click to expand...

2 jugs of 8.25% Walmart Bleach last night.
This morning Water already turned pale green, was dark green last night.
 
Well pool even more blue this afternoon.
I haven't put any more bleach in yet.
Just tested my CYA it is between 90 & 100.
This is the first time I have tested with the TF100 kit.
I tested it 3 times, 1. Just over 100, 2. 100, 3. ~95.
I think the last time was the most accurate.
But regardless it's close to 100.

Any use doing any other test?
Or, just drain & replace water?
 
mknauss said:
You should follow the SLAM Process protocol.

Read the linked article.

Take care.
Click to expand...

Thanks
I understand the SLAM process and have it printed out for reference.

But I won't be able to drain, refill, then SLAM until Saturday morning.

Since I have the Algae on the run already, do I still need to put a jug of bleach in tonight and tomorrow as was suggested in post 2?

Thanks Again
Chris W
 
More bleach cannot hurt. It will help keep the algae at bay until a full SLAM can be thrown at it.

Take care.
 

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