Hello,
I am getting ready to purchase a new blower pressure switch for my Jandy LX400 heater, but I wanted to see if I could get some advice here first. When trying to use the heater I get an 'air flo sw' error on the screen and it shuts down. But the blower appears to be working perfectly, the rubber tube is in great shape, and there is nothing blocking the exhaust air. The gas even ignites and I get heat for a little while before the shut down.
I'll hear the blower on at high speed for a while, then at lower speed for a while. Then the gas kicks in and is lit. I'll feel hot air from the exhaust port. The fan goes to high speed again, and back again to low speed after a little while. Then the error message appears on the screen, the heat goes away, and eventually the fan stops as well.
According to a troubleshooting guide I found, either the fan pressure switch or the GUI is at fault. There are some voltage measurements I can take to try and determine which is at fault. Based on the symptoms I'm describing, does anyone here know right off whether or not I should be replacing the fan switch? If I do the measurements, I'm assuming that I need to do them while the heater is trying to come on and heat the water, rather than being static?
Thank you,
Greg
I am getting ready to purchase a new blower pressure switch for my Jandy LX400 heater, but I wanted to see if I could get some advice here first. When trying to use the heater I get an 'air flo sw' error on the screen and it shuts down. But the blower appears to be working perfectly, the rubber tube is in great shape, and there is nothing blocking the exhaust air. The gas even ignites and I get heat for a little while before the shut down.
I'll hear the blower on at high speed for a while, then at lower speed for a while. Then the gas kicks in and is lit. I'll feel hot air from the exhaust port. The fan goes to high speed again, and back again to low speed after a little while. Then the error message appears on the screen, the heat goes away, and eventually the fan stops as well.
According to a troubleshooting guide I found, either the fan pressure switch or the GUI is at fault. There are some voltage measurements I can take to try and determine which is at fault. Based on the symptoms I'm describing, does anyone here know right off whether or not I should be replacing the fan switch? If I do the measurements, I'm assuming that I need to do them while the heater is trying to come on and heat the water, rather than being static?
Thank you,
Greg