New pool -- Switch from Chlorinator to Pentair IC40

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B

buckweet1980

0
Jun 19, 2017
20
Lucas, TX
I have a pool that is about 2 months old and I'm looking to switch to SWG so i don't have to deal with the hockey puck CYA issues. I don't want to deal with doing the daily bleach bottle add either, so SWG sounds like its up my alley. My brother had it on his pool and loved it..

I have the Pentair Easytouch 8 without the IC breakers in it, so I know I need the IC40 (25K gal pool) and the power supply. However one thing I'm not sure about is my plumbing.. Coming out of my heater is an automated valve that gets activated in spa mode. One path goes to the spa returns (along with the bubblers), then other goes to the chlorinator, then ultimately the pool & a spa feed for the spillway. Everything I've read says to wire the IC into pool circuit, which is fine, but I don't want the IC to run in spa mode..

So can the easytouch be set to not activate the IC in spa mode (if its wired to the pool power circuit), if not, would the built in flow sensor on the IC suffice? Or should I wire it to an available relay and have it come on only in pool mode (I assume this is possible).

Thanks!!
 
I thought there was an r's cable you can run from the easy-touch to the IC40 to control when it runs? I don't have a spa so I can't comment specifically. I really like my IC40, but will likely replace it with an IC60 when it goes. If you can afford a little extra now, get the 60, you'll get more life out of it for only a little more money. If it's not in the budget, the 40 will do fine.
 
BW,

Since you have the EasyTouch, the SWCG will automatically reduce the amount of chlorine it generates when you are in the Spa mode. I don't remember the exact amount but about only 1/20th or so of the current output.

You don't really have to do anything special. Install the SWCG after the heater and before any valve that switches between the Pool and Spa...

The only thing that is mandatory is that the SWCG power supply must get its power from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
A few other suggestions:

1. If you have a spa, I'm assuming you have a heater so make sure you keep a check valve between the IC40 and the heater.

2. My pool is 19,000 gallons and I live just north of Houston. During June, July and August my IC40 has a tough time keeping chlorine up. I have to bump up my CYA to 80 or 90 and then it generally is not an issue. I then let the rains in the Fall bring down CYA to the "normal" range. During the winter I put in a puck a week or so and monitor the FC to make sure no issues with FC or CYA and then get a little more careful before Spring when the IC40 kicks back on when the pool temperature rises. When my IC40 goes I will be replacing it with the IC60 and I would recommend that you at least consider this option. My pool is in full sun starting around 10am until 7pm so that could be an issue too.

Good luck. 
 
BW,

More than likely if you have a puck/tab dispenser, you already have a check valve after the heater. This check valve keeps the chlorine from the pucks from leaching back into the heater when the pump is off.

The good news is that a check valve is NOT required when using a SWCG because there is no excess chlorine to leach back into the heater. When the pump is off the SWCG does not produce any chlorine.

One other thing... you can adjust the amount of chlorine produced when in the Spa mode.. You can make it zero if you wish...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Here's how the plumbing is which I described earlier.. Adding the SWG before the valve will require some rework.. Which is why I asked if I could just somehow get the SWG to be turned off when in SPA mode.. I'm not honestly not even sure if there is enough space to put the SWG in where the chlorinator is at either.

IMG_20170621_130854.jpg
 
BW,

No matter where you put the SWCG you'll have to do some PVC cutting and gluing..

It appear to me you could put it right after the heater by adding a 90 degree elbow and then U shaped loop with the cell in it and then back to the valve.

You could also remove the tab dispenser and install the cell in that spot.. Not ideal but it would work.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
So if I were to just put it in where the chlorinator is today, is it possible to have the automation system just tell the cell to not turn on via the serial bus? I'm hoping this method is an option instead of cutting the power to it since it would be wired to the pool circuit.. Or would I have to wire it to a fully seperate power circuit.

Hopefully that makes sense?
 
BW,

Well, if you put the cell where the tab feeder is, two things would happen with your valve selected Spa...

1. The EasyTouch would reduce the chlorine output to whatever you set it for in the Spa mode.. I would assume zero...

2. Since in the Spa mode no water would be flowing though the cell anyway, the flow switch would shut it off.

The "'right" way to do it is plumb the cell just after the heater and before your Return valve... but... plumbing it in place of the tab feeder would work..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
OK great, thanks for the info..

So another newbie question.. I've been using the screenlogic software to do much of the configurations, however it seems not every option is there..

Should I be using a keypad or something to program the easytouch? All of the advanced menus don't seem to be available on the control panel either. And my pool builder didn't install a physical keypad.
 

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I use the computer with the screenlogic app, using the configuration section.. What I am struggling with is that I don't see a lot of the fields that the manual shows when using a keypad..

Example.. I don't know which screen to go to for setting macros and such.. Say I want to turn the pool on, but then I want X Y Z else to happen..
 
BW,

You have an EasyTouch, so you will not have any macros.. Your manual probably shows both the EasyTouch and the IntelliTouch which does have macros.

If you give me an actual example of what you want to do, I'll see if it is possible..

I tried to read the manual once and found it was written in some foreign language.. :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Ahh okay that makes sense..

I guess the only thing i'm looking for is where to set the intellichlor settings for when its in spa vs pool mode.. When I go into the configuration, there is only 5 steps to walk through.. On step 3 there is a 'chlorinator present' but when you check that it doesn't enable any other fields.
 
BW,

The setting is not in the configurator, but on the operating display... See below...

Notice the tab "Chlorinator".. Click that and it takes you to everything you need for the SWCG...

dbtgallery.php


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
No disrespect but I will let others debate if a check valve between the salt generator and heater is required or not, I would ask you to refer to page 3 of the IC40 Manual you will see that the manufacturer indicates a check valve is "recommended". The salt generator should turn off when power is cut off but there could be some residual chlorine that could make its way back to the heater.

IC40.jpg
 
Not sure where you found this manual snip.....but the two manuals currently available on pentairpool.com (pre- and post- November 2011 IntelliChlor units) both show no check valve between salt generator and heater.

OP, +1 on going with IC60. I have IC40 for 29,900 gal pool in full sun most of day and currently have to run it at 100% duty cycle for 9 hours/day to keep FC at 6ppm with CYA at 80, when it dies I'll replace with IC60.
 
I stand corrected. When I ordered my Pentair IC40 I was not provided with a manual and a quick Google search turned up a manual which may have been from 2007, maybe. I could have saved myself some time by not installing the check valve and not restricted my water flow too. I'll keep it since on occasion I do use the tab feeder to add CYA but when it fails I may just remove the spring valve and put the cover back on. Thanks LapPoolMike for setting the record straight. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.
 
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