So - I screwed up and fell asleep after throwing the ol' hose into the pool to bring the water level up. She is definitely filled up to the brim. Is it safe to just let the water evaporate out or do I need to consider emptying some of the water? Is it safe to run the pump? Thanks in advance!
Overfilled pool
- Thread starter Khanair
- Start date
It is my understanding that you can still safely run the pump, but if the water is way above half the skimmer height then you will not be skimming the pool surface of debris, but you will be filtering the water still. So, use your skimmer net to remove any floating debris since your skimmer basket won't until the water goes back down.
Be sure to test your FC and CC as you may need to dose it with bleach one time in addition to the SWG's output.
Be sure to test your FC and CC as you may need to dose it with bleach one time in addition to the SWG's output.
Oh yeah - there is 0 chance that there will be any skimming going on until the water level drops. I'll definitely test the water first thing tomorrow to figure out what I may need to add.... I was so close to getting this darn thing balanced! Rookie mistakes I guess...
On the bright side - as long as it didn't overflow, you don't lose CYA if you just let water evaporate back down. Just a PH/TA/CH/FC adjustment issue. And the manual skimming 
I guess your CYA could drop temporarily a tad since there are more gallons, but whatever, it goes back to where it was after the evap.
I guess your CYA could drop temporarily a tad since there are more gallons, but whatever, it goes back to where it was after the evap.CYA has been my biggest battle since opening the pool this year. Started at 0 - so I don't want to go through that again. Not to mention I went through most of my regent while trying to get it into acceptable ranges. My latest battle has been PH and TA. I've been taking it one step at a time.... I tend to try to fix 1 issue at a time, but I'm starting to slowly multi-task
You will absolutely get the hang of TFP. Do you have a thread going to get help balancing your pool?
I see you have a plaster pool but I've been told overfilling a vinyl lined pool is bad news. The water can get down behind the liner and cause problems. Good thing you don't have that setup!
Sorry - just saw this. What's the best way to get a thread started for balancing the pool?
You can post full test results here in this thread, or click post a new thread on this page if you prefer it in the testing and balancing water thread, where it might get more/faster helpers.
I think I will take you up on that - if it becomes annoying, I'm happy to move it to another thread. Here goes nothing!
So my pool has evaporated (or is leaking - will be doing a leak test one of these days) and I've been testing as normal. Here's my latest numbers:
FC: 4.8
CC: .5
PH: 8.0+
TA: 125
CH: 280
CYA: 55
Salt: 2800
I've been fighting a PH/TA problem for the last several weeks now and finally went and got some muriatic acid. Today, I dumped in a gallon of MA and also added another 40lbs of salt. I've been running my SWG @ 30 for 12 hours a day and see anywhere from 4 - 6 FC in a given test. Over the past couple days, I've been seeing some brown (possibly green) stuff sticking to the sides of the pool. I've been brushing it off and it comes off pretty easily.
This forum is amazing. I never thought a forum dedicated to pool ownership would be so welcoming and willing to answer the same questions over and over again In other forums, when you post a question that's already been answered a millions times you automatically get directed to the FAQs (I have read thoroughly through pool school and have gotten this far with the knowledge I have learned). Seriously - thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
I thought I would also add (and have appended it to my signature) that I have been testing with the Taylor K2006.
So my pool has evaporated (or is leaking - will be doing a leak test one of these days) and I've been testing as normal. Here's my latest numbers:
FC: 4.8
CC: .5
PH: 8.0+
TA: 125
CH: 280
CYA: 55
Salt: 2800
I've been fighting a PH/TA problem for the last several weeks now and finally went and got some muriatic acid. Today, I dumped in a gallon of MA and also added another 40lbs of salt. I've been running my SWG @ 30 for 12 hours a day and see anywhere from 4 - 6 FC in a given test. Over the past couple days, I've been seeing some brown (possibly green) stuff sticking to the sides of the pool. I've been brushing it off and it comes off pretty easily.
This forum is amazing. I never thought a forum dedicated to pool ownership would be so welcoming and willing to answer the same questions over and over again In other forums, when you post a question that's already been answered a millions times you automatically get directed to the FAQs (I have read thoroughly through pool school and have gotten this far with the knowledge I have learned). Seriously - thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
I thought I would also add (and have appended it to my signature) that I have been testing with the Taylor K2006.
Very good putting the K2006 in your sig!
Before reading more, if you don't already have bleach, please know you need to buy some. As explained below, start to finish will probably take 9-20 jugs of 8.25% regular, non-splashless, non-scented, bleach. No dollar store. Walmart great value, Clorox, or any other generic purchased from somewhere that sells enough to have fresh stock is fine. It's all the same stuff. Sooner the better, but this isn't life or death by the hour or anything.
So there is a lot we will talk about, but one thing at a time - and remember - you can do this! Stay calm, there are no emergencies going on, but we have some work to do to get back to trouble free.
1. Did you brush after adding the MA? If not, brush the bottom when you can. MA sinks in water, and it is important to pour slow and brush after adding so you don't risk acid eating the bottom to any meaningful degree over years of MA additions.
2. Did you test the PH since adding the MA? Always best practice to make sure you didn't go below 6.8 (according to pool math, you probably didn't, but since ph less than 6.8 is somewhat corrosive, we want to make sure you didn't over-do it, if you did, aeration will raise)
3. Bring FC up, with bleach (or cal-hypo if you have some around since your CH is low enough to take a little), to 8 or 9 but not over 10 while you balance PH & TA - that colored stuff is algae because your FC dropped below min FC of 5 for CYA of 60 (round up)
4. after we get your TA where you're happy and PH 7.2, you absolutely need to SLAM to make your pool safe again, but not until ph & ta are good, since we can't do the ph test if fc is greater than 10
Notes:
You can avoid having to ever SLAM again by keeping FC above min for your CYA (ideally in the target range). I'm sorry you got the algae - let's make sure after we get the slam going, we cover preventing it really well.
If PH seems to always be higher than 7.8, TFP has a process for lowering TA, but it can take several days and is done in steps, but here is the link. Generally speaking, higher TA = faster PH rise
The reason your SWG is having trouble keeping the FC up is because the algae is consuming it. We get ph right, we slam, then your daily FC demand will be MUCH lower, like 1-4ppm per day, easy for a SWG. But when there's algae, FC demand can be...umm...well it's way too high for SWG alone. You need bleach, and you're going to need 9 jugs minimum if you're buying 8.25%, and honestly how many more than that I can't predict exactly, but depending on how widespread your algae is, it could be another 9...or more. We'll try to get through this with as little cash as possible, i promise. In the meantime, your SWG is fighting a losing battle and turning it up just burns through it faster. Either set it to normal or just turn it off if you're buying bleach today or tomorrow. Having it at a high setting costs a lot more and is penny wise-pound foolish.
I promise, I'll help you get this pool as inexpensive and easy/fast to maintain as possible, but we need to get this under control as soon as you have time to test, pool math, and add the correct amount of chems.
Final note, do not add bleach within 20 mins of adding bleach - pump running of course.
That was a long post, but I want you to know this is a solvable problem, and there is good reason why I say each thing. And, you know, I want you informed and prepared. My pool takes mere minutes a week and only a few bucks. Yours can be the same once we get your numbers there and get your knowledge there.
Questions?
Checklist:
Brush if you didn't, test PH TA FC and report back. Skip other tests for now.
Buy bleach (9-20 jugs)
SWG to normal or off.
Before reading more, if you don't already have bleach, please know you need to buy some. As explained below, start to finish will probably take 9-20 jugs of 8.25% regular, non-splashless, non-scented, bleach. No dollar store. Walmart great value, Clorox, or any other generic purchased from somewhere that sells enough to have fresh stock is fine. It's all the same stuff. Sooner the better, but this isn't life or death by the hour or anything.
So there is a lot we will talk about, but one thing at a time - and remember - you can do this! Stay calm, there are no emergencies going on, but we have some work to do to get back to trouble free.
1. Did you brush after adding the MA? If not, brush the bottom when you can. MA sinks in water, and it is important to pour slow and brush after adding so you don't risk acid eating the bottom to any meaningful degree over years of MA additions.
2. Did you test the PH since adding the MA? Always best practice to make sure you didn't go below 6.8 (according to pool math, you probably didn't, but since ph less than 6.8 is somewhat corrosive, we want to make sure you didn't over-do it, if you did, aeration will raise)
3. Bring FC up, with bleach (or cal-hypo if you have some around since your CH is low enough to take a little), to 8 or 9 but not over 10 while you balance PH & TA - that colored stuff is algae because your FC dropped below min FC of 5 for CYA of 60 (round up)
4. after we get your TA where you're happy and PH 7.2, you absolutely need to SLAM to make your pool safe again, but not until ph & ta are good, since we can't do the ph test if fc is greater than 10
Notes:
You can avoid having to ever SLAM again by keeping FC above min for your CYA (ideally in the target range). I'm sorry you got the algae - let's make sure after we get the slam going, we cover preventing it really well.
If PH seems to always be higher than 7.8, TFP has a process for lowering TA, but it can take several days and is done in steps, but here is the link. Generally speaking, higher TA = faster PH rise
The reason your SWG is having trouble keeping the FC up is because the algae is consuming it. We get ph right, we slam, then your daily FC demand will be MUCH lower, like 1-4ppm per day, easy for a SWG. But when there's algae, FC demand can be...umm...well it's way too high for SWG alone. You need bleach, and you're going to need 9 jugs minimum if you're buying 8.25%, and honestly how many more than that I can't predict exactly, but depending on how widespread your algae is, it could be another 9...or more. We'll try to get through this with as little cash as possible, i promise. In the meantime, your SWG is fighting a losing battle and turning it up just burns through it faster. Either set it to normal or just turn it off if you're buying bleach today or tomorrow. Having it at a high setting costs a lot more and is penny wise-pound foolish.
I promise, I'll help you get this pool as inexpensive and easy/fast to maintain as possible, but we need to get this under control as soon as you have time to test, pool math, and add the correct amount of chems.
Final note, do not add bleach within 20 mins of adding bleach - pump running of course.
That was a long post, but I want you to know this is a solvable problem, and there is good reason why I say each thing. And, you know, I want you informed and prepared. My pool takes mere minutes a week and only a few bucks. Yours can be the same once we get your numbers there and get your knowledge there.
Questions?
Checklist:
Brush if you didn't, test PH TA FC and report back. Skip other tests for now.
Buy bleach (9-20 jugs)
SWG to normal or off.
Wow - thank you, thank you, thank you. I'm definitely not freaking out as this is my first time owning a pool and I know I have a lot to learn. I guess my first question is: is my pool not safe to swim in? The only reason I ask is because my fiancee is a teacher that is off for the summer and might be swimming as we speak!
I did test PH this morning and it was between 7 - 7.2. I didn't test FC or TA as I was running out to get to work. I am hoping to have a 4th of July party - do you think I can get everything under control by then?
Also, I did not brush after pouring the MA but I did pour it super slowly (took about 5 minutes to empty the 1 gallon bottle).
I'm guessing I should also raise my CYA after I get some of the other stuff balanced, correct?
I did test PH this morning and it was between 7 - 7.2. I didn't test FC or TA as I was running out to get to work. I am hoping to have a 4th of July party - do you think I can get everything under control by then?
Also, I did not brush after pouring the MA but I did pour it super slowly (took about 5 minutes to empty the 1 gallon bottle).
I'm guessing I should also raise my CYA after I get some of the other stuff balanced, correct?
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
There is a possiblity if you get your TA to 60 or 50 at the lowest, your ph could become stable.
paulmaz
Bronze Supporter
- Apr 19, 2016
- 171
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I would go to Home Depot and spend $13 and get a Hose Timer. Life (and water) saver
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Mechanical-Water-Timer-56908/202819560
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Mechanical-Water-Timer-56908/202819560
Hi! Don't have time for a full reply - but - perhaps the most basic indicator of water safety is FC. It MUST be above min, SHOULD be in target on, and MUST be at or below shock - all for your current CYA. CYA CHART LINK. SWG adds bleach slowly, so if you're not where it needs to be - bleach.
After FC - water clarity and presence of algae - if not clear, if there's algae - less safe. If water is green - really best not to swim. Since you have algae on the walls, you're heading in a dangerous direction and need to SLAM as written previously.
If it were me, not TFP advice, but if it were me, I'd get ph to 7.2 then get fc to shock, then let people swim without worries unless they had a medical condition that put them at increased risk of infection or sickness.
After FC - water clarity and presence of algae - if not clear, if there's algae - less safe. If water is green - really best not to swim. Since you have algae on the walls, you're heading in a dangerous direction and need to SLAM as written previously.
If it were me, not TFP advice, but if it were me, I'd get ph to 7.2 then get fc to shock, then let people swim without worries unless they had a medical condition that put them at increased risk of infection or sickness.
OK! Here's my update. I went and purchased all of the concentrated Walmart, great-value bleach they had (10 1gallon jugs). I just tested and here are my current results:
FC: 4.8
CC: .5
PH: 7.3 (color was in between 7.2 and 7.4)
TA: 100
For my next step I am adding 2 jugs (gallons) of bleach and turning off my SWG. I am also looking to see if I can rig up some sort of fountain w/ my return and some PVC to help aerate. Thanks!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Check that - I'm going to be adding 1.5 jugs (gallons) since the bleach I got is 8.25
FC: 4.8
CC: .5
PH: 7.3 (color was in between 7.2 and 7.4)
TA: 100
For my next step I am adding 2 jugs (gallons) of bleach and turning off my SWG. I am also looking to see if I can rig up some sort of fountain w/ my return and some PVC to help aerate. Thanks!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Check that - I'm going to be adding 1.5 jugs (gallons) since the bleach I got is 8.25
Congrats on getting the bleach and restesting
1. Do not aerate for now - we'll come back to this
2. Start the SLAM
3. don't add any more MA or CYA until we talk about it after the SLAM
4. Test the FC several times a day using the 10mL sample size, not 25ml - save on the chems, 10mL is accurate enough when you do the drops slowly - also when your FC is high like this, 1 level or rounded scoop is plenty, no need for 2 scoops at all.
5. After you test FC, use pool math to calculate how much bleach you need to add to bring back up to shock for your cya.
6. post how it is going and questions
1. Do not aerate for now - we'll come back to this
2. Start the SLAM
3. don't add any more MA or CYA until we talk about it after the SLAM
4. Test the FC several times a day using the 10mL sample size, not 25ml - save on the chems, 10mL is accurate enough when you do the drops slowly - also when your FC is high like this, 1 level or rounded scoop is plenty, no need for 2 scoops at all.
5. After you test FC, use pool math to calculate how much bleach you need to add to bring back up to shock for your cya.
6. post how it is going and questions
Ok - so I've got FC up to around 24, shut off my SWG and am going to let my pump run around the clock and test tomorrow morning. We do have people coming over on Saturday (all healthy adults) and we promised them swimming so I'm going to roll the dice and keep my FC high until after the 4th. After that, I think I'm going to SLAM the pool. Am I being a complete idiot? I totally understand this is going to cost me more money in the long run.
In the meantime, should I try to maintain shock level and let people swim, or let the FC drop down to something a little less? I know you're trying to help me permanently fix he issue but I'm also trying to keep he fiancé happy I promise that I will get on the plan as soon as the 4th is over. Thanks again for all your help!
In the meantime, should I try to maintain shock level and let people swim, or let the FC drop down to something a little less? I know you're trying to help me permanently fix he issue but I'm also trying to keep he fiancé happy
I promise that I will get on the plan as soon as the 4th is over. Thanks again for all your help!
Stay calm - You're doing great!
Perfect job bringing FC to 24 and keeping pump running.
It is safe to swim in a pool with a high FC as long as it is under shock for your CYA, so as long as yoru FC isn't over 24 on Saturday - you're good to go. Just don't go crazy pouring in tons of bleach - only what pool math says - then retest in 15 mins when you can to confirm.
So, if FC between 10-24, I'd let healthy people swim starting tomorrow without worries.
Test only FC in the morning and bring it back up to 24 (it will fall overnight as it kills algae). If you have time to give the walls and floor a brushing, do so, if not, that's okay, do it when you get home - and test it again when you get home, adding enough bleach to bring it back up to 24 once more.
Is the water still crystal clear, with just a little algae on the walls that poofs away when brushed? If so, you caught this early and it is entirely possible you actually pass an OCLT tomorrow night, indicating the pool is sanitized.
While a full and proper SLAM has you testing and brushing as often as possible - since you caught this early, you'll probably have a very quick slam if you keep brining FC up to 20-24 a few times a day. Remember - SLAM is just keeping FC at 24 as much of the day as possible, with brushing often and 24/7 filtering. You're technically SLAMING right now! Throw in a brushing and you're slamming really well!
You are done with your SLAM when:
You're doing great and your pool will be fine for Saturday in my best guess. Just test and brush when you can, adding FC back up to 24. That's the key elements of SLAMing right there. This page isn't long, give it a read if you haven't. Remember, the point of the SLAM is rapid, efficient sanitation of your pool. After you pass the three end criteria, we'll let the FC drift back down, turning the SWG back on when FC reads 8 or 9.
Perfect job bringing FC to 24 and keeping pump running.
It is safe to swim in a pool with a high FC as long as it is under shock for your CYA, so as long as yoru FC isn't over 24 on Saturday - you're good to go. Just don't go crazy pouring in tons of bleach - only what pool math says - then retest in 15 mins when you can to confirm.
So, if FC between 10-24, I'd let healthy people swim starting tomorrow without worries.
Test only FC in the morning and bring it back up to 24 (it will fall overnight as it kills algae). If you have time to give the walls and floor a brushing, do so, if not, that's okay, do it when you get home - and test it again when you get home, adding enough bleach to bring it back up to 24 once more.
Is the water still crystal clear, with just a little algae on the walls that poofs away when brushed? If so, you caught this early and it is entirely possible you actually pass an OCLT tomorrow night, indicating the pool is sanitized.
While a full and proper SLAM has you testing and brushing as often as possible - since you caught this early, you'll probably have a very quick slam if you keep brining FC up to 20-24 a few times a day. Remember - SLAM is just keeping FC at 24 as much of the day as possible, with brushing often and 24/7 filtering. You're technically SLAMING right now! Throw in a brushing and you're slamming really well!
You are done with your SLAM when:
- CC is 0.5 or lower (could be as soon as tomorrow)
- You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less); (could be tomorrow night)
- And the water is clear. (already is?)
You're doing great and your pool will be fine for Saturday in my best guess. Just test and brush when you can, adding FC back up to 24. That's the key elements of SLAMing right there. This page isn't long, give it a read if you haven't. Remember, the point of the SLAM is rapid, efficient sanitation of your pool. After you pass the three end criteria, we'll let the FC drift back down, turning the SWG back on when FC reads 8 or 9.