Lime Green Pool, $500+ to a pool store and still bad....

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M

Mweltz88

0
Jun 5, 2016
66
Whiting, Iowa
I haven't posted much and generally don't struggle a whole lot with pool maintenance. This year however when I removed my cover it looked like a swamp, globs of algae, pond smell, it was pretty gross. I shocked it with 6 gal of low chlorine and 8 pounds of shock initially, (40x20 inground) the water became a very cloudy teal. After a few days it began to clear slightly, still very cloudy but more of a lime green. Between me and my dolphin we've vacuumed the pool floor completely clean and to waste. The water became clear for two days and you could see the bottom but had a very lime green color to it. I've been to the pool store about 3 times and have had 3 different stories. My numbers are good, 13ppm chlorine, 7.4 pH, 135 TA, .03 iron, .02 copper. I recently (22 hours ago) added 3 bottles of bioguard pool magnet and 4 cups of sparkle up to my 24" sand filter.... still nothing, I continuously have good readings on test strips and the store analysis but cannot get the water to clear up. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for he long post just want all the info out there.

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I can post pictures as well

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This is where I point out that if you had gotten a proper test kit and followed up last year when you joined with problems you would have saved at least $500, probably much much more.

So before anybody takes the time to help you I feel it is prudent for me to ask if you are going to get a k-2006 or TF-100 this time so we can properly help you clear your pool and never have to dump $500 again for no results.
 
I know I sound like a broken record, if you're old enough to remember records, but..

You need a proper test kit. Throw away the test strips.
You need to SLAM Process
You need to stay out of the pool store except for obscure pieces of hardware

For the test kit, I suggest a TF100 with the XL option from TFTestkits.net And no, I don't get a kickback. You'll use a lot of the FAS-DPD reagents during a SLAM Process, which is why I suggest buying the XL option now. It's a chunk of change, but it will be money well spent, unlike all the money the pool store took from you.

You'll need a lot of bleach. Forget all the powdered shocks and magic potions from the pool store.

Check out 14 years of pool stores and failure... or some older threads in Recovering my old inspirational links There have plenty pof pools far worsethan yours that cleaned up nicely following the SLAM Process.
 
I've never bought a text kit because I have the means to do it myself at work, we convert ground water to demon water for steam production at a fertilizer plant, knowing my exact numbers is not hard, I only go to wh pool store for the information provided on how to correct the problem, for example, I can't use concentrated Lyme as a floculant in my pool or the chlorine gas we injection into the water stream as a means of shocking. I never really have to much trouble but I am curious if my green color is due to me not shocking enough and I should step up the chlorine levels or if it is from metals that don't show up on test analysis, the samples I've run at work both come out in the .028 range for metals and my conductivity is high but that can be from multiple things. Current chlorine ppm ( 10 min ago) 11ppm
 
Hopefully you're putting demin water in the boilers and not demon water (that stuff can be deadly :D ). Autocorrect gets me every time when I type demin too. lol

Seriously though, if you're slamming you won't have time to truck samples back and forth to work since you'll need to know what the FC is frequently (unless you live next door - but then who wants to wear FRC's when testing their pool water??).
 
I think the decision you need to make is if you are going to follow our system of pool care or the pool store system. They are different and trying to combine the two is a recipe for disaster.

In noneo F your results do I see a value for CYA and I doubt you test for it at work. But, CYA is the key to pool care because it sets the requirement for FC. Just saying yiur FC is 11 does not tell us if it is too high, not high enough or fine.

I recomend a little reading in Pool School

ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

[FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
 

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Richard320 said:
That kit is pretty skimpy on the reagents you'll need the most of -- CYA and FAS-DPD. Check out the comparison chart. Pool School - Test Kits Compared
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Agree 100%. When I bought my K-2006 I at the same time bought refills for the CYA and FAS-DPD because I knew even with just my SLAM I'd run out quickly. TF-100 XL would be my recommendation, having previously made the other choice. :) The only plus side is I now have 16oz of CYA reagents and I'm set for....ok, I bought too much. lol
 
Mweltz88 said:
Still waiting for my test kit, been trying to keep Chlorine levels high, still no change in the water, looks lime green, can't see the bottom. Chlorine is showing 13+ ppm. Any ideas where to start?
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Have you been brushing and vacuuming? Chlorine attacks everything organic in the water, whether it's algae or leaves. You want it to concentrate on algae, so remove any leaves. 13+ FC might not even be high enough for daily chlorination, let alone shocking, depending on the CYA level. Being generous with the size, let's say your pool is 20X40X5 ft average depth, about 30000 gallons. Your 30 lbs of balance pak stabilizer will have driven CYA up to 120! Who knows how much was already in the water and how much the shock added also.

The short answer on where to start is twofold
1) Fill out your signature
2) Wait for the test kit. You may end up needing to drain a whole lot of water. Why treat it only to pump the expensive chemicals out?
 
Well it's probably even more than that, I added some towards the end of last year and the shock they sold me had stabilizer in it. Smh they told me i needed to get the pH to hold before the chlorine would work and recommended more stabalizer.... so my chlorine probably isn't working at all
 

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