It will not stratify at all. Over winter you may get some layering, but that is due to the added rain, snow on the top. Once mixed, it will not separate.
Lime Green Pool, $500+ to a pool store and still bad....
- Thread starter Mweltz88
- Start date
n240sxguy
Well-known member
Mine is like $.003. I wouldn't break $100 on 30k gallons. If you're on city water with sewer charges, call them to see if they'll give you a sewer charge credit since you're filling a pool and not dumping all that water down the sewer.
n240sxguy
Well-known member
I had to do this too! It really does work. I drained about 2 feet of water 2 times in order to get my CYA down to 60. I was then able to perform the SLAM.
Woohoo! After days of draining, and refilling my CYA levels are just above 30ppm with another 6 more inches to fill. Ready to start the SLAM process. I already added 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. What is the necessary amount for a good starting point? (30,000 gal pool) and what do you guys recommend? Just generic bleach from Walmart or their liquid chlorine? Also pH is sitting at 7.4... super excited to get this thing cleared up!!! Thanks for all he help thus far!
Btw, took 4 half drains, probably guessing CYA was 200+
Btw, took 4 half drains, probably guessing CYA was 200+
Congrats!
Now reference this chart to determine your minimum, target range and shock levels for your CYA level: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
and use Pool Math to determine quantities: https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
- - - Updated - - -
This is also a perfect time to run complete test with your new kit and post results like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Did you get a SpeedStir? You owe yourself a SpeedStir.
- - - Updated - - -
I'm not a tax accountant, but if I were you, I'd write off my SpeedStir as a business expense!
Now reference this chart to determine your minimum, target range and shock levels for your CYA level: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
and use Pool Math to determine quantities: https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
- - - Updated - - -
This is also a perfect time to run complete test with your new kit and post results like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Did you get a SpeedStir? You owe yourself a SpeedStir.
- - - Updated - - -
I'm not a tax accountant, but if I were you, I'd write off my SpeedStir as a business expense!
Scout101
Well-known member
Just use the Pool Math section. It tells you what values you WANT to have, and you enter the size of your pool and what you ACTUALLY measure for chemicals. It'll then tell you exactly what you should have to put in to get there...
Awesome, and plain ole generic bleach is okay? Don't get the liquid shock or anything like that? Also, once pool is clear do I return to using chlorine tablets? Or do you guys avoid using them and just manage with bleach?
Liquid shock is usually just liquid chlorine. Check the label. You may want to calculate true cost of any bottle by the percentage of active ingredient: sodium hypochlorite. Generic is fine, as long as what you're getting isn't old, splashless, scented or outdoor or contains anything else.
Water is already blue, cloudy but it's blue! Ran some test and my TA is up around 350ppm and calcium was showing over 400ppm. My city water is extremely hard, didn't know if this is much of an issue with a vinyl liner or not. pH is still okay at a 7.6... thoughts on if I need to take corrective measures or just carry on with SLAM. Currently at 11ppm FC, >.5 CC and CYA of 35ppm.
Assume your CYA is now 40 instead of "35" (no half ways with cya) and dose your chlorine to match that 40 CYA. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
If you haven't yet started your SLAM, use a bit of muriatic acid to bring your pH down to 7.2. Chlorine works happiest there during a SLAM.
Decide now if you need to re-order reagents so you don't run out. The Taylor kit you bought is kinda skimpy on them, hence why most folks prefer the TF-100. A better buy all around.
Have you reviewed the SLAM directions?? -> SLAM Process
Maddie
If you haven't yet started your SLAM, use a bit of muriatic acid to bring your pH down to 7.2. Chlorine works happiest there during a SLAM.
Decide now if you need to re-order reagents so you don't run out. The Taylor kit you bought is kinda skimpy on them, hence why most folks prefer the TF-100. A better buy all around.
Have you reviewed the SLAM directions?? -> SLAM Process
Maddie
Scout101
Well-known member
Yeah, chlorine is chlorine, more or less. You'll probably find that Liquid Shock is cheaper per % than buying chlorox or whatever, but depends on what's around you. Pool Math has a spot for you to put in the strength of the liquid you're using, so it'll adjust the amount you need based on how strong it is. Walmart carries the liquid shock (10%), BJ's has 4-packs of 12.5% (better deal at the moment), and you may find that local stores (or maybe even *gasp* the pool store in some cases, sacrilege, for sure) has a deal on larger jugs. All the same stuff, just figure out the cost per % of Sodium Hypochlorite, and buy whatever is cheapest while still being relatively fresh
And yes, most people use that year-round instead of the pucks, due to the pucks adding CYA. OK on vacation or whatever if you know what it's adding, but over a season, it adds up to problems. I can't speak to it personally, as I'm blessed with a SWG that magically makes my chlorine for me out of thin air (plus bags of salt and electricity), so I don't have to add much except for heavy usage in hot weather, in which case I give it a boost with a little liquid shock.
Cool, thanks for the info. Day 3 of the slam and I'm not being impatient just curious if there is more I can do. I have some clarifier and some sparkle up for my filter. Will those products help the water along or just wait and maintain the FC levels, still blue but a bit cloudy.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,605
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Typically clarifier and brand name products like 'Sparkle Up' are not used. Once your SLAM is complete, you have passed an OCLT, and you are at the final stages of clearing your water, some folks use DE in a sand filter to polish the water. It is written up in Pool School how to do that process.
Take care.
Take care.
Tested my water this morning, pool is crystal clear and I have absolutely no CC, but am losing FC (3ppm over night) so I ran another CYA test and I now am showing it is super low, the tube is full and I can still see the indicator so it is far less than 30ppm. I think I may have been getting a false high due to my water being so cloudy earlier. What is the best way to raise CYA, I read the pool school section and don't have any Stabilizer on hand but I do have 2 5g buckets full of pucks and 17 1lb bags of shock would crushing some of those pucks up and putting them in the skimmer work? Or should I go by some stabilizer?
What type of "shock" is it? Dichlor and trichlor will raise CYA quickly, but remember they are also very acidic.
99% dichloro-s-triazinetrione hydrated
55% available chlorine
Pool current pH is 8.1
55% available chlorine
Pool current pH is 8.1
That pH may not be right if FC is above 10 but anyway...
After you have your pool's info plugged into poolmath, scroll down the page to Effects of Adding Chemicals and see what 16 ounces of dichlor will do to your chemistry. Then work backwards from that to see how much you can safely add. The pH calculation will not be exact -- it is only precise under extremely tight parameters. But you can be sure it will lower pH some. Perhaps add the dichlor and let it mix and hour or so and then recheck pH and see if you can add another package or if you need to wait for the pH to recover.
I also have one more question, my TA isn't bad but my CH is sky high +300ppm but I tested my hose/fill water and it is that high, my hose does run through my softener but I don't have a super duty water unit. And in my small Iowa town the water is harder than heck... is this an issue that needs addressed or something I'll just have to deal with. It's always been high on test strips never had a problem with scaling tho.