Please help. Haven't opened pool in 3 1/2 years. Never had a pool! Severe help needed

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Turn on pump to verify circulation and run for at least 15 min before testing. When you get your tests results post in this format:
FC:
CC:
PH:
TA:
CH:
CYA:
That makes it easy to read. I suspect your CYA may be pretty close to zero. You will want that to be at least 30 or you will loose a lot of chlorine (which translates money) to the sun. Also, may want to adjust ph before Slam. I have a liner pool so I do not mess with TA or CH before a SLAM but since you have plaster you might want to read about that or get advice from someone who knows more about plaster. Asking questions beats making mistakes. Best of luck tomorrow.
 
Pressure varies from system to system based on the plumbing. To find the pressure at which you should backwash again, do a good long backwash for 3-4 minutes, or until it runs clear (it won't run completely clear until the pool is clear, but you should notice a difference in color). Then run it on rinse for 10-15 seconds, and then filter. That pressure is your new "low" pressure. You should backwash when it goes 20-25% over that number. So if your typical pressure is 20psi, you should backwash around 24-25psi.

Re-do that procedure once your pool is clear to get a better idea for what it will be during regular maintenance, but it probably won't differ too much.
 
I am not an expert but I would not go above 30#, our pool filters are somewhat similar. My clean filter pressure without eyeballs is 13#, with 2- 1 inch eyeballs it is 15#. So I expect maybe you will be similar, I have 2 skimmers and 2 returns, I know you have 2 skimmers I do not know how many returns. From what I have read, pressures are similar but the the common answer seems to be "it is dependent on your system". My gauge max is 30#. Had a clog in filter once from debris it went from 15# to about 22# quickly, back washed went back to 15, I usually backwash at 18 or 19. The rule is 25% above you clean operating pressure but you won't know that untill your running and you clean.
 
Since this is the 1st time you are running the pump yourself, what I think you are really asking for is what the pressure max should be before turning off pump to trouble shoot, You could start up on circulate which takes sand filter out of equation, if it goes above 20# that way I would be highly suspicious that there is a partial blockage, you could also have valve on waste, I believe it will be less than 10#, be sure your backwash hose is on or you will get a shower.
PS always be sure pump is off when you turn Valve handle. You may have a few trouble shooting issuers to deal with before done but as you learn system it becomes more evident.
 
The 2 that forms the T before it hits the pump are likely your skimmer and main drain. Then it goes through the pump, through the multiport valve, then the filter, and then comes out of the filter into two pipes, one of which has a valve. Those are your returns. Probably the unvalved pipe is your return jets, and the one with a valve could be a water feature, for a pressure-side cleaner, or something else. It's a different kind of pipe going into the ground, so was probably added later. For now I'd leave it closed and maybe when we can see through the water we'll find out what it is! Someone else may have an idea too.
 
From the pictures you posted, I see 3 on/off valves, not to be confused by Vari-Flow valve, coming out of side of filter. also called a multi-port valve. The multi-port has about 6 different settings, you depress the handle on the multi-port then turn to setting you want. In the picture it appears to be on "winter" which just lifts the spider gasket up and all ports are open. Then the 3 on off valves, 2 off the T, these are incoming to the pump, from what you have said they come from the skimmers but I still have not figured out where bottom drain comes in. In the picture these 2 valves seem to have a blue tint. at start up they should be on. The third on/off valve seems to be in your return line and appears to be red. should be on. Is there another valve that I missed in the picture if so get another picture or highlight it.
My bottom drain is incorporated with my main skimmer, if you look into skimmer and have 2 open pipes my guess is one goes to bottom grain to verify blow air from shopvac down the tubes if bottom drain bubbles will come up.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support




- - - Updated - - -

OK. So apparently i need a new pressure gauge because mine is caput. Tried to go forward without it as safely as possible but had no luck. Placed on recirculate, open the two valves connected to the T and left the 3rd closed. Pump was moving and bubbles were coming up in the deep end of the pool very slowly and that was about it. After about a minute or so the black rubber connection that is on the 3rd valve pipe blew open and water started coming out of there. I turned everyone off. replaced and tightened and started up again this time with the 3rd valve open. After attempting that there was water shooting out of those many little holes just underneath the coping(in recent picture) turned off again and am going to wait until i get a properly working pressure gauge before attempting again. But no jets on the sides did anything( not sure if they were supposed to) and not sure if there is a block or anything. Hopefully some of this info helps if not i will get more once that gauge comes in
 
I do not know what type of plug they used to plug the returns. If you remember the company that closed the pool you could call them and ask. Around here they use rubber stoppers with a screw through them. A wing nut on the outside tightens and loosens I use a pair of pliers to loosen the wing nut. I am sure there is a tool to help loosen if you can figure out what kind of plug or stopper. Looking/feeling may be your best way.

To verify your bottom drain you could take a shop vac and make it blow the air and put it into the line that connects to the pump. Open 1 of the valves and go to skimmers one should be blowing bubbles. Then close that valve and open the other the other valve. either the other skimmer or the bottom drain should be blowing bubbles. if you get a good seal where you are inputting air, water will actually blow out of the pipe and into the air and could probably see it real easy. If one of those lines blows bubbles from the deepest end of pool it is probably bottom drain. If one valve is one skimmer and the other valve is the second skimmer bottom drain is probably incorporated in one of the skimmers. Hopefully skimmers are both on one valve and bottom drain on the other. Wish mine was like that. The cheapo diverter Hayward designed sucks air after water goes below skimmer so you can't pump the pool any father. I made a PVC connector so I can drain but is a real pain to put in and take out.

I bought a gauge from pool store for $7, can get online for 2 but did not want to wait, also with shipping may have cost $7 anyway.
 
I used a generic gauge 0-30#, like this, or this. I got it from pool store, can't find the $2 one but didn't look too hard. Ask for generic, try another pool store, preferably an independent one instead of a chain. I am feeling much better about the pool store I use when I need to (I do not buy chemicals there except 12.5 chlorine for $12.50 for 5 gals.

PS Swampwoman is a great expert, now that she is on this thread, she will give great advice, especially if metals in water are a problem.

- - - Updated - - -

just checked the shipping pool supply, cane to like $40, but amazon prime is 2 days free, if you have a prime account. I am feeling even better about my pool store.
 
Way to high of a range, I would get 0-30 scale and no higher than o-60 scale Otherwise you will not be able to see subtle differences and when to backwash. What is the range of the old gauge? I also would not run pump without it. You were kind of lucky the fernco blew off instead of a joint underground giving way, especially under the brick. Been much better to get ripped of the $30 at pool store. I do not know how many pool stores are around you but would call a few and see who has best best price. Can even ask for a generic gauge instead of Hayward. I am trying to think of another type of store that would have it. And again I would not let it get over 30#.

Here is a link for a gauge from Ebay located in Smithtown, NY. It is $7 and free shipping. Not sure how close to you but if close enough could possibly pick it up.

To get plugs off, there is a tool for each plug type but I would use the shaft of a screw driver between the 2 post one and pliers to grab the post of the single recessed plug. I am also thinking you have 2 returns.

I would also look around the garage to see if there were Eyeballs to screw into the returns to further direct flow and enhance circulation. Do not need them to run but may help with circulation to decrease SLAM time. The link above is for 3/4 " opening, I use both 3/4 " and a 1" depending on what I want to do the 3/4" increases my pump pressure by about a pound.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply