Trouble raising FC?

[vbharrington]

I am still learning the TFP method, although I think I am getting there. I have my TF-100 kit and speed stir, and I have tested my water twice so far, these are my numbers.

May 9, 2017

CYA - not tested, will test later (still adding conditioner at this time)
FC - 3.5 - 4 (I accidentally dropped two drops at once, so I don't know if it would have taken 7 or 8 drops)
CC - 0
TC - 3.5 - 4.0
TA - 30
PH - 6.8
Temp - 70 degree

Yesterday, per Pool Math, I added 114oz of bleach (to raise FC from 4 to 7) and 11 pounds (to raise TA from 30 to 60) of baking soda

These are my numbers today....
May 11, 2017
CYA - 45
FC - 4.5
CC - 1
TC - 5.5
TA - 90
CH - 200
Bor - 10
PH - 7.5

I think everything looks ok except maybe the FC, which should be higher. I don't understand about the other numbers.....even though I followed PoolMath exactly, I overshot the TA by 30 points. It does seem like the baking soda also raised the PH some, and I think the CYA is ok. So should I shoot for a FC of 6? Yesterday I used 14 cups of bleach to raise the FC by .5. Today PoolMath is calling for much less bleach to raise it from 4.5-6, when yesterday the amount that was supposed to raise it by 3 only raised it by .5. Should I continue to follow the PoolMath recommendations a few more days and see if my FC levels rise? Also, I have not intentionally added borates to my pool, so where do those come from? Thank you in advance

 

[jblizzle]

How do you know that what you added yesterday to raise the FC by 3 only raised it 0.5? When did you do the 2nd FC test?

Do you realize that you are supposed to be adding bleach every day since the pool will lose 2-4ppm every day?

You should be able to test the chemical adjustments after about 30 minutes to confirm you are hitting your targets.

The baking soda has a minor effect on the pH, but just having a higher TA will cause the pH to rise more quickly.

 

[vbharrington]

My mistake - I did a chlorine test yesterday, the chlorine was 4.0. I added the bleach, and today, less than 24 hours later, it was at 4.5. That is why I said that the level was only raised by .5. I am still very new to the TFP method, and I guess I am having trouble adjusting my mindset to adding bleach daily, as opposed to adding tablets every other day.

 

[jblizzle]

Sounds like it worked correctly then. The FC was raised by the bleach and dropped over 24 hours to basically where you started. You just want to be sure it does not drop below 4ppm based on your CYA level.

 

[Jimrahbe]

vb,

At this point do NOT add borates to your pool.. This will come much later and it is an option that not everyone needs or uses.

It takes a few tests under your belt until you start understanding what the tests do and how much to add.

I would concentrate on FC and get it up to 6 or 7 ppm.. Keep in mind that at the same time you are adding chlorine, your pool is using 2 to 4 ppm of chlorine each day.

Over time you will get a feel for how much your pool uses and also get a feel for how much needs to be added, using Pool Math of course for direction..

Relax.. things will turn out fine...

If you would, it would help our old eyes if you would post like the example below...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

At this point nothing else matters to us..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[Defgufman]

I have found my pool is easier to maintain at 50 to 60 cya. It seemed as if I burned off more fc daily when I fell below 50. Typically I run through 1 to 2 ppm fc a day. My pool has been squeaky clean for 3 straight seasons using the tfp method.

 

[vbharrington]

Ok, a couple more newbie questions:

I haven't intentionally added borates, so I'm not sure how they got there - could they have been in my "city water" that I used to fill up my pool?

I have the TF-100 kit which is awesome! However, I have a terrible time "matching" colors on the "daily" chlorine test kit that is included with the set. Does anyone else use the "weekly" chlorine test on a daily basis?

When the TF-100 instructions state to look for the color to turn red - does it mean red-red, or pink? Also, do I stop adding drops when it is barely pink, or when it is noticeably pink?

How long do most people typically run their filters? I know to run it for several hours after adding chemicals, but ours has been going almost non stop for a week. I can already see Duke Energy rubbing their hands in anticipation of our next power bill.

 

[Richard320]

Ok, a couple more newbie questions:

I haven't intentionally added borates, so I'm not sure how they got there - could they have been in my "city water" that I used to fill up my pool?

No. But pool stores sell a variety of magic potions that contain borax. So do some trichlor pucks, to counter the acidic effects.

I have the TF-100 kit which is awesome! However, I have a terrible time "matching" colors on the "daily" chlorine test kit that is included with the set. Does anyone else use the "weekly" chlorine test on a daily basis?

Yes.

When the TF-100 instructions state to look for the color to turn red - does it mean red-red, or pink? Also, do I stop adding drops when it is barely pink, or when it is noticeably pink?

Red usually means pink. When doing, say, the TA test, if at 7 it looks grey, at 8 it looks pink, at 9 it looks barbie pink, and at 10 it doesn't change, TA is 90.

How long do most people typically run their filters? I know to run it for several hours after adding chemicals, but ours has been going almost non stop for a week. I can already see Duke Energy rubbing their hands in anticipation of our next power bill.

I manage on two or three depending on temperature and usage. In brief, once the pool looks perfect and the chemistry is right, you just reduce the run time a little each day until it doesn't look so perfect and then go back up. See Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time

 

[Jimrahbe]

V,

I doubt you have any borates in your pool... in your case the color math kit is for CL, you can ignore the Br readings...

I never, well almost never, use the color match kit to determine my chlorine level.. I always use the powder method. (FAS/DPD)

I'm not sure what test you are referring too when you say "red"????

Here is my standard answer to your pump run time question...

Each pool is a little different... You generally run a pump for three reasons:

1. To keep surface debris moving and being pushed into the skimmers. The more debris the more often you need to run the pump.

2. If you have a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWCG) you'll need to run it long enough to generate the amount of chlorine needed.

3. To circulate the water to ensure the chlorine is effectively distributed throughout the pool. Two or three hours per day is all that is needed for this to happen in most pools.

There really is no one answer that fits everyone.

Thanks,

Jim R.