New home. New in ground pool. Many questions.

not silly at all. There are a couple of ways:

-trash pump and hang the hose outside the pool and put the pump pick up over the "junk"

-get a water hose and get a siphon going and hold the end in the pool over the junk on the bottom of the pool and let it flow out that way.

Kim:kim:

I don't have an end cap for a hose nor any kind of sump pump so I may just end up starting the refill process and vacuum afterwards.
 
Between the rain and all night with the hose I awoke to a pool almost TOO full. Ive been vacuuming to waste on the deep end and the bottom is looking bluer and bluer. I should be able to start the SLAM tomorrow after work. I know this is an almost unanswerable question but how many gallons of chlorine (probably Walmart's Pool Essential's 10% and I know to check the dates) am I probably going to go through? 15-20?
 
I got mine a Lowes. I only found the big box so I will have some FOREVER LOL

Kim:kim:


Its been pouring here the last few days so I havent had a chance to start the slam yet. To start, I imagine I need to retest CYA to see what I am now at? Also, regarding Pool Math, I'm not sure which field I need to be paying attention if my chlorine will be 10% liquid bleach from Walmart. Can I get a list of tests that I need to perform before beginning the SLAM? I plan on going to Walmart and picking up 10-15 gallons of bleach after work.
 
If you've gotten rain like I have (just a bit west of you), you'll probably want to re-test everything. My pool is up about 7 inches, which is enough to change some values a bit. CYA and pH are most important, assuming your FC is still 0. If your water level is a bit high, roll with it until you need to start backwashing - will save you from having to refill later. First get pH down to the 7.2ish range, and then start SLAM.
 
If you've gotten rain like I have (just a bit west of you), you'll probably want to re-test everything. My pool is up about 7 inches, which is enough to change some values a bit. CYA and pH are most important, assuming your FC is still 0. If your water level is a bit high, roll with it until you need to start backwashing - will save you from having to refill later. First get pH down to the 7.2ish range, and then start SLAM.


Thanks for the reply! I'm wondering which field in Pool Math I need to use to determine how much muriatic acid I need to add? I know its got to be higher than the 7.7 or 7.8 I tested awhile back. Also, once adding the acid, how long do I need to wait before doing anything else?

Edit: Also, were pretty much right down 183 from one another. I had an uncle who lived there.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I'm wondering which field in Pool Math I need to use to determine how much muriatic acid I need to add? I know its got to be higher than the 7.7 or 7.8 I tested awhile back. Also, once adding the acid, how long do I need to wait before doing anything else?

Edit: Also, were pretty much right down 183 from one another. I had an uncle who lived there.
Enter pool volume, TA, current pH and target pH.
 
Its been pouring here the last few days so I havent had a chance to start the slam yet. To start, I imagine I need to retest CYA to see what I am now at? Also, regarding Pool Math, I'm not sure which field I need to be paying attention if my chlorine will be 10% liquid bleach from Walmart. Can I get a list of tests that I need to perform before beginning the SLAM? I plan on going to Walmart and picking up 10-15 gallons of bleach after work.

Below is a "snapshot" of Pool Math in the FC:

Add _______ of ________ weight % bleach.

The second blank is where you will put the 10 for your bleach strength. You can/should delete what ever is there and put 10 since that is what you have.

PH and CYA are the most important right .The rain might have changed most of them.

Did this help?

Kim:kim:
 
Sorry to keep asking questions but how long do I need to wait after adjusting the PH with muriatic acid before I do anything else? I'm wanting to adjust multiple things in the window of daylight I have after work. My goal is to have swimmable water by the weekend but I imagine since SLAM is a process over several days I may be out of luck.

I don't know my TA off hand but I imagine the test kit will have a test for this?
 
If you're using liquid or pre-dissolved chemicals, it circulates very quickly, maybe 30 minutes at most. But I'd say 5-10 minutes is more than enough to wait before moving on to a next step, unless you're not certain of pool size or some other variable on PoolMath.

You could have swimmable water in the next few days if you stay on top of it. Check every 30 minutes until you see no FC loss in that timespan, then check every hour, then every 2, then 4, etc. The goal is to keep that FC at SLAM level, and the more time it stays there the faster the process goes. Keep sweeping and vacuuming, keep an eye on backwash. If it's not a complete swamp, it's not unreasonable to think it could be clear enough to swim in after a few days of work. Just don't quit the process before you pass all 3 tests, keep FC elevated all the time, and be prepared for a sore back from sweeping. :)
 
Here are some videos. One of them should be the TA test.

How to Use a Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006 - YouTube

I add m.a. and only wait about 15 mins with my pump on high and brushing the pool. The combo of high pump and brushing seems to mix it up good for that fast of testing.

Ask any and all questions you might have. I will also tell you there is a link on the left side of the home page for the tests. Here is the link:

Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions This might help even more.

Kim:kim:
 
Again downpours kept me from doing much of anything. I did manage a TA and ph test right before dark. TA was 40 and Ph looked to be around 7.7. I used Pool Math and added a bit under what it recommended of muriatic acid (recommended 43 I added 40) to get the ph to 7.2. Hopefully by Friday I have enough time to start and monitor the SLAM.
 
Picked up 25 lbs of DE at Home Depot. About to begin the SLAM.


Edit-

With the TF-100 I bought I am hoping there is a way I can use it to test for FC and CC? Most of the videos I am seeing involve use of another kit.

Edit #2- Found it Im just blind.
 
LOL yeah the two test kits use the same stuff but the TF-100 has more of what you need on a daily bases. The test are almost the same with a small difference in containers.

Write those numbers down. Do the PH and CYA test next.

Kim:kim:
 

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