While waiting for my TF-100 to come in...

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aggiewonder

aggiewonder

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Gold Supporter
Feb 2, 2017
42
Spring, TX
...I've realized I didn't order any salt level testing supplies AND I need to update my signature to be more specific. I will work on that sig.

Full story: We just bought a used house which came with a pool which was built in 2004. I'm still learning what I can in my spare time as we are still in the middle of unboxing and honey-do's (i.e. renovating). I had a pool growing up but no where near complex as this one.

1) Do I trust the display on my Hayward AquaRite SWG that says 3200? (I'm not even 100% sure of the model number just yet. Lots to learn & notate as we were not left with much of any information whatsoever.) Or, do I need to order salt testing supplies ASAP?

2) Y'all gonna help me when I open that box when it comes in? Hopefully it will be waiting for me at home after work. I've printed out and "bindered" the Extended Test Kit Directions along with abbreviations, recommended leverls and SLAM...I think I'm worried most about color changes and the "dot" for the CYA test.

3) I haven't searched but do any of you keep an Excel spreadsheet with your "logged" test results? Or what else do you use to keep notes?

4) We did have a pool inspection...he mentioned pool's plaster will need to be redone in 3-5 years and that the coping had some etching issues. I'm wondering (based on reading lots on this website already, thank you!) what exactly the previous owners messed up or didn't pay enough attention to or their pool service messed up. I hoping the TF-100 will help with that as well. Basically the inspector said that "corrosion" is "causing" sandstone to dissolve and pit. There has been some sediment near the edges. Any concerns here? Vague, I know, but I do not have any pictures at the moment.

5) Wife (a.k.a. the Boss) is pushing for a pool guy to come out. I've been emptying the skimmer baskets nightly and the filter basket as needed. I really need to rake/blow leaves from around the pool...it looks like some of them have been in place for more than one season based on experience. I have not vacuumed or brushed as of yet. While there is no visible algae, I'm sure I'll be surprised after testing. Since water is only 66 degrees with some relatively cooler weather coming, any recommendations before testing commences?

6) Seeing #2's smile while in the hot tub last night sure makes all this "work" worth it!

Will check back in when I get home...hopefully with a test kit delivered!

Thanks y'all.
 
Aggie,

Welcome to TFP... A Great Resource for all your pool related questions... :lovetfp:

Good job on getting the TF-100...

On the salt display. I would say trust, but verify... No rush, but I would get a good Salt Test Kit like the Taylor 1766. I'd want to have it on hand before the season opens up this year.

Keep in mind that most SWCG's do not work when the water is below about 55 degree or so. This time a year my SWCG is shut off and I manually add Liquid Chlorine/Bleach.

The "etching" you see on your sandstone or Flagstone is pretty normal. Some say it is caused by the saltwater, but I believe that it is just the nature of the stone and that it will naturally flake over time. I would not initially worry about it at all.

When you get your kit, make some tests and report back your results.. Do it like this:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Thanks!
Seems to me erosion of any soft stone would occur when splashed with water...so, scratch that off my worry list.
OK, thanks for mentioning the temperature limitation of the SWG. We have a little cool front coming in next week so I will know after testing how much bleach to get with calculator's (and all your!) help.

[EDIT] Salt water test ordered, Taylor K-1766...
 
Y'all gonna help me when I open that box when it comes in?
Click to expand...
Yup! It's what we live for. :)

I haven't searched but do any of you keep an Excel spreadsheet with your "logged" test results?
Click to expand...
Yup! I sem to have a spreadsheet for a lot fo things here at home. :) But it does come-in handy for historical purposes.

Wife (a.k.a. the Boss) is pushing for a pool guy to come out.
Click to expand...
Nooooooooooooo! When she says something like that, compliment her on something and change the subject. The TF-100 will be the best tool at your disposal. You'll see. Suggestion - get the Magnetic Speed Stir. It helps a LOT by mixing.

Nice to have you with us.
 
Welcome!! This is the best place to hang out and nerd out about pools [emoji23][emoji23] then you can become obsessed... like the rest of us... my hubby just leaves me alone now when it comes to the pool and fixing things with it lol


Christina
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FC 28
CC 0
pH 8.2
TA 100
CH 400
CYA 45

So, first step is to really reduce pH correct? Should I add CYA first since it can lower pH or just start with MA?

Thanks!

I did crank down SWG as it was set at 60%. It is now set at 10%.

oops, forgot to measure our tap water. will do that later.
 
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You can add stabilizer anytime you need to. It doesn't effect any other chemical. Just use the sock method, kind of like you see here in these examples, and be sure to not let the sock-filled granules rest on the plaster. Once it's all dissolved though, you're good.
 
Maybe I had first time jitters or maybe the recent rain changed things up a bit.

FC 15.5
CC 0
pH 8.2
CH 325
TA 70
CYA 60


All tests done indoors. Pool water was 64 degrees but I did CYA test last and redid two tests (CH and TA) so I think sample warmed up enough.

SWG is turned off (cooler nights) and FC needs to drift down some more to recommended target level of 4 for current CYA level.

Will test FC and CYA again Saturday.

Any thoughts?

Water is clear...I do need to brush so I will do that Saturday as well.

Thanks y'all.




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CYA needs to be outdoors with your back to the sun. While my water is cold, I let my water for that test warm up for a bit before doing it :)




Christina (SoCal)
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