No one wants to acid wash my pool

[Dom]

So i started filling the pool on friday around noon and dissolving CYA granules (75oz.), it was almost full by 10p.m. that night. Yesterday i finished putting the filter back together, did some plumbing, and installed the IQ20-RS board, continued filling, chlorinated, started the system, added DE, chlorinated, acid.........!!! Finally ate lunch and dinner at once around 8p.m. Any way my numbers this morning are

FC=15
CC=0.5
PH=7.8
TA=120
CH=200
CYA=under 20, black dot not quite disapearing yet! The sock did not have much left in this morning after i squeezed it a few times.

The pool looks beautiful this morning, please comment or advise. Thanks!

 

[pooldv]

Alright, glad the pool looks good!

CYA should show up on the test 24 hours after it is dissolved from the sock.

Time to learn how to manage your CSI. Enter all your test results in PoolMath and it will give you a CSI score. Keep that number between -0.3 and 0 to prevent scale. Lots of things impact the number so be sure to enter all results. PH, TA and CH are the primary drivers. Tweak these to adjust the number.
More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

 

[Dom]

Thanks Pooldv! according to poolmath if i lower PH to 7.5, TA 110, and CYA 30 it would put my CSI at -0.1, Sound about right to you?

 

[ping]

Run an OCLT tonight to see if it passes. If it passes then your numbers are fine for now, just let the FC drop to normal levels.

 

[pooldv]

Thanks Pooldv! according to poolmath if i lower PH to 7.5, TA 110, and CYA 30 it would put my CSI at -0.1, Sound about right to you?

Yes, that is good for now. Ultimately you will want to your TA down to the 60-80 range to slow pH rise. As you add muriatic acid to lower PH it will slowly lower TA and TA and PH will reach equilibrium and get happy.

 

[Dom]

I did an OCLT last night just to see and lost 3.5ppm of FC, gonna do one again tonight. I got my PH down to 7.5 but TA did not budge, still at 120.

Pooldv, 60-80 on the TA? 90-120 is what is recommended i thought. Although, it says 70-90+ above my (now/target) in Poolmath.

 

[pooldv]

Recommended by whom?

Here are TFP recommended levels, Pool School - Recommended Levels

 

[ping]

For now just concentrate on the SLAM.

The pH is not reliable when the FC is above 10 so do not adjust it until the SLAM is completed.

 

[Dom]

Ran OCLT last night and lost 1.5ppm of FC.
This mornings readings:
FC=12
CC=0.5
PH=7.5
TA=110
CH=200
CYA=20 black dot just about disappears
CSI=0

 

[Dom]

I ran 2 different CYA tests using the TF100 and Pentair Rainbow CYA Turbidity test, and i got 2 different results.

TF100= -20 still can see the black dot
Pentair= almost 30

Which one is correct?

 

[pooldv]

20-30 is the bottom of the effective range for reading a cya test. Use 30, it is only 1 ppm difference in chlorine level. A little more chlorine is always better than a little less.

 

[Dom]

Passed OCLT! This mornings readings are,

FC=12
CC=0
PH=7.5
TA=110
CH=200
CYA=20-30 (2 different tests!)
CSI=0

Im gonna wait for FC to drop to7, drop PH to 7.0-7.2 and aerate (may have to repeat to get TA down to 90). Calcium Chloride to get CH to 250? Does it come in liquid? I have never bought this stuff. Or will CH creep up with adding water due to evaporation over time?

 

[pooldv]

CH is a powder. What is the CH in your fill water? You don't have to add CH if you want to wait for it to come up on its own. But, do keep an eye on your CSI to make sure it doesn't drop below -0.4 or so and start etching your plaster. Etching is when CH dissolves from the plaster into the water leaving a rough, pitted plaster surface. More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

If you live on the hot end of CA then you will want your CYA up around 50. Cold end then 30-40.

More here on pool chems, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[Dom]

Just filled the pool and CH registered 200, the water never really heats up more than 86-88 degrees in the summer months, 88 after a long hot spell.