size, shape considerations

Some well water has metals in it that can cause green water. Clear but green. What I see with these last pics is not that.

It will be interesting to see what color your water is when everything settles out.

Kim:kim:
 
Your pool has only been filled for 4-5 days. Some plaster pools take a week or longer to reach their true water color. I'm not sure about liner pools. Still, the chemicals make a big difference. As your chem levels get closer to their happy place, the water could still change.

Is the green tint a little less each day or two?
 

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Hey Wm, you're going to love the salt system! I've got a couple of things to do, but wanted you to know I'll be back with you this evening about the getting going on the swg system. I don't want you to think you've been forgotten!! And someone else may come along, also.

Suz
 
Ok, so if my chemicals are good (or really close), how do I now start using my SWG? I was told on a new pool that I should get water chemistry in good shape before adding salty and using the SWG.

I have a couple of questions. I will paste some general info below about getting to know a swg system. But do you need more specific instructions such as how to turn on your system, how much salt to add, if there is a wait time to switch over to salt in a vinyl pool, etc? Let me know.

For now, read the info below. Be sure to ask any and all questions. If I don't know the answer, I will get you someone who does!!!


When you switch, most of the chem level ranges will change. So keep your charts handy. For me, I had a new learning curve with the start up of the swg, but it was pretty simple. You may still add some bleach from time to time. Some of the reasons for adding bleach now and then are down below. Remind us and we will help you make those decisions when they come up - if you're unsure.

What will you need to do and learn?
** decide on an FC level you want to shoot for. That also depends on your CYA target.
** How much chlorine is produced by the salt water generator is a combination of the % you set the salt cell and the number of hours you run the pumps.
** We can help you determine the # of hours to run your pumps.
** The cell only works when the pump is running. So if you set your cell for 50%, it will only produce salt half the time the main pump is running. If that doesn't get you the target FC you wanted, then you need to adjust either the salt cell % or the pump run time OR both.
** The more you run your pump, the more electricity costs you incur. The higher % you set your salt cell, the shorter the life of the cell. These are pretty minute unless your electricity is very expensive. In that case, your focus might be more on keeping the pump run time low and cell % higher to save electricity costs.
** Right now in July, I run my pump about 9 hours a day with my cell at 75%. The first year, I had to have higher pump hours on and higher cell %. I can't tell you why.
** There are many factors involved in your FC requirement -- the same you experienced before the swg system was on: weather, swimmer load and frequency, water temperature, organic debris in the pool, etc
** I had to learn to be flexible and be willing to make frequent adjustments in the very beginning.
** For me after 2 years, most of my adjustments this past year were when seasons change causing continual rises or drops in water temperature. Here in Houston, the cell % and pump run times are very steady. I supplement for slight drops with some chlorine (such as: weather - rain, swimmer load and frequency, water temperature, organic debris in the pool, etc). When you supplement with bleach, you're just giving the swg a helping hand, so to speak. And it won't take as long to get your FC back up where you want it.

That's all I can think of now. I or someone else will add more later if I left something out.

I promise you will love having the salt cell once you get into the swing of it.

Give me your questions!!
Suz
 
I understand how to work the SWG and set percentages. I guess what I am unsure about is when to make the start of using it and how to determine an initial amount of salt.

You can see my pool stats and SWG in my signature. My electricity is inexpensive by comparison to some I have read about on here, so run time isn't a big deal. First few days I ran full speed, 24/7. I backwashernfor the first time today. My pump pressure had risen a little and I could see the thing in clear part of the pressure gauge at the top of my sand filter was dirty.

I am ok making adjustments until I figure it out. Just need a jumping off point and plan. Thank you for your encouragement, it really helps make me feel confident I can do it!
 
Here's an outline for getting started: Keep in mind, I don't know what you know or don't know. You will have to ask questions, so we can help you fine tune chem levels, cell %, and pump run times

1. chemical levels: are your last posted results from Sunday still pretty stable? If not, let us know if you need any help. Those on Sunday look good.

2. if all is good in #1, then using the PoolMath calculator, determine how many bags of salt you will need (unless your PB is taking care of that). In the calculator, put 1000 for the starting amount of salt (your water may have some, but it will also make sure you don't overshoot the salt - can always add more). For your salt target, plug in 3100. Then the calculator will tell you how many bags of salt to start with.

3. add the salt to the pool and circulate with the pump on for 24 hours

3a. Check the salt reading on your automation device and make sure your salt level is within the salt range required for your cell. Usually the range is somewhere between 2800 and 3400 or higher depending on how many gallons your cell is rated for.
** If it's not in the range, use Pool Math again to determine how much more you need to get to your target. (Use the salt reading you just got from your device and use that as your "Now" in Pool Math. Keep your target the same.
** If the salt reading is in range, go on to step #4.

4. test for the FC level target, your 8.5 from Sunday is a good target for this hot and sunny summer. IF, the test result isn't 8.5, using PoolMath, add enough bleach to bring it up to 8.5. (this means your swg won't have to make up any FC, but can start with your target)

5. Turn on the salt cell. Your pool is a good deal larger than mine, and your salt cell is rated higher than mine, so all I can do is give you a guess starting point.
Set the cell at 50% and run your pump for 6 hours a day to start. (ex: my pool is 23K gallons, so my cell is currently running at 75% for 9 hours a day) I'd rather start you a little low than too high

6. You will need to test the FC daily until you get your cell % and pump run time dialed in.
** If the FC is too low, increase either the cell % or pump run time. Pick either since your utility rates aren't unreasonable.
** Add enough bleach to reach your FC targetl
** If you test and the FC is too high, then drop either the cell % or time your pump runs. No need to add any bleach.

7. Continue #6 each day until the FC settles at your target.

8. As you're finding your cell % and pump hours, start shifting your chem levels to those recommended for a vinyl pool with SWG. You have the charts, right? "Recommended Levels" and "Chlorine/CYA Chart". If not they are in Pool School under Handy References.
** Adjust levels gradually

Here are some suggested levels:

FC 8.5
pH 7.2- 7.8 (same for bleach pools and swg)
TA 60-70 (someone with a vinyl pool will need to make a suggestion if one # works better for a vinyl pool)
CYA 70 or 80 (undershoot since it's more difficult to drop CYA than to raise it; add more to reach your target)
CH don't add any since your fill water is already at 200 - vinyl pools can have 0 level and be fine

Then as written in my post above with swg tips, you may need to add bleach from time to time if there have been a lot of swimmers in the pool, etc.


Reasons that influence pump run time: I choose to increase my pump run time because our electric rates are low. Mainly, I have a messy crepe myrtle tree near my pool which drops a lot of flower and seed pods everyday, so I want that stuff going into my skimmers.

Now, give us your questions!!!

Suz
 
I meant to add a link I found which may be helpful for anything I forgot.

Pool liner replaced


I ran across this thread that has a calculator to find a starting point for setting your cell % and pump run times. After you find that, then you adjust or fine tune your cell and pump to get the FC you want to target. I think for me, it's more complicated than it's worth. I'm not that much into technology, so it would take me longer to use the calculator than to use the guess and check. But there were some very positive responses from people who found it very helpful.

Here's the link:
SWG Run Time Calculator
 
Yes, that sounds right. In the link above "Pool liner replaced", the guy was told to add 569 #s of salt for a 20K gallon pool to go from 0 salt to 3400.

So your 560 #s is in the 'same large # family'. I just double checked on PoolMath, and I get the same # of pounds you did.



For your Circupool RJ-60+ cell, the salt level range is 2800 to 4500.

Since you've got a high range for your cell, in Pool Math, you could plug in '500' for the salt in the 'now' column and keep the target at 3100. When I do that, I come up with 696 pounds of salt. Or make it an even number of 17 bags. Compared to the recommended amount in the "Pool liner replace", I think my estimation was too low.

Now, I added to the steps in post #55. I copied it below for you.

After you add your first round of salt, do this:

3a. Check the salt reading on your automation device and make sure your salt level is within the salt range required for your cell. Usually the range is somewhere between 2800 and 3400 or higher depending on how many gallons your cell is rated for.
** If it's not in the range, use Pool Math again to determine how much more you need to get to your target. (Use the salt reading you just got from your device and use that as your "Now" in Pool Math. Keep your target the same.
** If the salt reading is in range, go on to step #4.

Let me know if this isn't clear, since I changed things up on you.

Suz
 
Sorry I haven't posted ina few days. Just been crazy around here. Pool is great and been looking good since we got the equipment going. Still haven't made the salt switch yet, but will this week.

No no green tint since pump started cleaning the pool. Yay!

We we have been enjoying it!

IMG_5701.jpg

IMG_5699.jpg

IMG_5673.jpg

Will post back when I add the salt...

-Mickey
 

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