Need help with green pool

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Welcome.

You're on the right track. Just don't adjust your pH when chlorine is above 10ppm. When you get your kit, test everything and post results.
 
When I first turn the pump on, the pump basket is full and the return jet shoots out with good pressure. When it starts up, the skimmer basket empties and pool refilling the skimmer can't keep up, so the pump basket starts spraying water around inside until it gets to a point where the jet pressure reduces. When the jet pressure reduces, the pump basket is not full, but the skimmer fills back up and the water seems to drain into the pump basket at a good pace. In about 30 seconds to a minute the pump basket gets full and again and the jet sprays out fast again starting the whole process over again.
 
You might want to raise the water height to at least the middle of the skimmer. What's happening is the pump is drawing faster than the pool can keep up. You might even want to go a little higher. You just need to be sure there is some room near the top of the skimmer door so stuff can get pulled in.

Sorry about the bottom drain question. Would be VERY rare on an above ground pool.
 
Raise the water level to at least the middle of the skimmer opening. Once you have your test kit, follow the directions carefully and post the results here.

In the mean time, read pool school and the forums. You will be able to clear your pool and maintain it easily once you get into it and gain the knowledge. It may seem like a lot to learn at first, but later on you'll think "this is simple" and you'll know more than your local pool store :)
 
If you don't have a weir door on the skimmer box, you can throw a tennis ball in the box to keep a vortex from forming. I think you just don't have enough water in the pool.
 
We were complete newbies to having a pool and when we purchased our home in July. We had a thick green unknown pond where the pool was supposed to be. Everyone said drain and clean and refill. I searched the internet for help and found these wonderful helpers. Our story was much worse than what yours sounds like and with the quick purchase of the TF100XL and their guidance we cleared that mess and the water, our friends and neighbors said needed drained, it felt and looked amazing. We had a very long SLAM and alot of bleach but after a few replacement parts saved alot of money over what pool store would have cost us. My point being these folks are very knowledgeable about pools and the TFP method works, use pool school and pool math, buy bleach and test, test, test. Post results of tests and if you need them ask for help. Our pool is still sparkling clean and even though we only had 2 weeks to swim we are so happy with the results as we can now winterize a sparkling clean pool that takes little effort to maintain.. We are currently in the storm in the southeast that is dumping alot of rain and I am sitting here atm looking at a clear pool. We are now in the high 50 to low 60 degree weather so a little bleach every few days does the trick..[emoji4] [emoji4] [emoji4]

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I'll try to get some picks tomorrow. It is currently a green color, dark green in most spots, but I think that is just because of the algae at the bottom. Some spots are a clearer green because I think that is where I vacuumed slower when I started messing with the pool. If I dip the handle of the pole extender I can see it until I get down about 3 feet. Each day I can see it further down.
 
How did you test your CYA? With your back to full sun (sunny clear day) in the shadow of you?

That's the most accurate reading you will get.

if it's at 38 with testing method as above lets just call that 40.

This is all likely to be a bit overwhelming but next summer you'll have a great pool to enjoy.
 
I tested the CYA at night when it was almost pitch black outside. I let the pool sit for a few days and vacuumed to waste a lot of the algae. I can see to the bottom of the pool now in most places, and can even see a little bit of blue on the bottom, but the vacuuming did not get all of the algae. There are still sections of algae areas on the bottom of the pool. It seems like I will need to scrub those areas to get the algae off of the bottom. Is it okay if I vacuum through the filter so that I don't have to keep refilling the pool? It seems like vacuuming to waste removes a lot of water out of the pool.

I have a winterizing kit that I had already bought from the pool store which has winter shock and algae protectant in it. I plan on using that when I close the pool. It is going to get down to 27 degrees in 2 days, so I think I really need to get this pool winterized soon. Would it be a horrible idea to leave a little bit of this algae left in the pool when I close it? I also plan on replacing the filter sand because I believe the sand is rather old.

This spring I'm planning on taking care of this thing the right way, with bleach, baking soda, borax, and muriatic acid. I have some more reading to do, but I think I'm starting to understand a little.

IMG_1746.jpg
 
egles, unfortunately if you close with algae, you'll open with algae. You certainly are on a time table now though. Just a few simple reminders as you approach the deadline to close:
- CYA testing much be done with good sunlight (at your back)
- Bleach is your friend! It will kill the algae but must be maintained at the SLAM level 24/7. There are no shortcuts with that process. Also during the SLAM, the pump must be circulating water 24/7. You cannot let the pool sit dormant or you will void any SLAM progress. The bleach must be allowed to kill the algae. No amount of vacuuming alone will clear the algae/green water.
- Many stores sell winterizing kits, some of them are a waste of $$ since really an algae-free pool with some extra bleach will generally do well once the water temp is below 60. Be careful about adding the algaecide they sold you. Look first to see if it contains any metals - especially copper which is quite common. You don't want copper in the water.
- During the SLAM, let the filter do its part and simply backwash afterwards. Your latest pic shows green water, but we've seen much worse, so let the bleach do it's job.
It would be best if you could hang in there just a bit longer with the SLAM until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. That way you would be confident to open to a nice pool in the spring. Good luck!
 
I've resigned to opening with algae in the Spring because I didn't think the filter was working based on a neighbors opinion. He was correct... I drained the lines to winterize and I popped the top of the filter because I was going to empty the sand. I found that there was barely an inch of sand in the bottom of the filter and that the pipe connecting the top multiport valve and the 8 pronged pipe setup was broken. The inside of the filter was extremely green with algae and there was sand in a lot of the lines when I opened up the drain. I think I only need to replace the PVC pipe from the multiport valve to the 8 pronged pipe thing. I also plan on cleaning all of the equipment with bleach as well.

I also took off the SWG cell and it is rather dirty inside. Does anyone know if the clear plastic end cap is suppose to pop off of the cell? It looks like it should, but I didn't want to try prying it off without checking first.
 

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