Starting the Algae Battle (Again)

You can test pH about 30 minutes or so after adding acid with the pump running. Best to do it cautiously as to not overkill and go too low. Then start your SLAM. Remember, during the SLAM pH will not read properly (high) because of the high FC from bleach. So don't waste your pH reagents either. Wait until the FC settles back down below 10 to test pH. Good luck, and have a nice day.
 
The automatic cleaner can hide algae, and if there are lights in the pool, you'll need to remove them and clean inside the niche.

Hey pabeader regarding the pool light, we do have an underwater light but I'm not sure if you mean to actually take the cover off and clean the inside or just to scrub the fixture down real good. I'm pretty sure the light is sealed off.... Pretty sure but not positive. It's a pretty old fixture.

Jason



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can test pH about 30 minutes or so after adding acid with the pump running. Best to do it cautiously as to not overkill and go too low. Then start your SLAM. Remember, during the SLAM pH will not read properly (high) because of the high FC from bleach. So don't waste your pH reagents either. Wait until the FC settles back down below 10 to test pH. Good luck, and have a nice day.

Thanks Texas that will work perfectly. I will dilute it first and get it added and then test in 30 minutes or so. Can't wait to start SLAMming!!!!

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Pooman, not sure if Jason has had his morning coffee yet :), but in the meantime, I believe he was referring to removing the screw and gaining access behind the light fixture itself as discussed in these other threads:
Steps needed to replace pool light
pool light housing removal Q
Jason may confirm once he gets back on-line.

- - - Updated - - -

If you have some other unique light fixture, let us know and we'll try to get you some more advice.
 
Hi. I have been fortunate enough to never had a green pool like that, although I have had clear water with hidden algae and done two successful SLAMS this year.

I was just wondering if there is any value in draining, scrubbing and starting from fresh , when a pool is really green ? What are the thoughts on that ?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Some folks may chose to do that, but they usually evaluate the cost effectiveness based on the amount of gallons required to refill, etc. Even after a drain and attempts to clean, some residual algae may remain requiring a SLAM anyways. A smaller pool might be easier to consider draining, but a 36K pool, probably not so much. :) Either way, maintaining a SLAM will work. Just may take a little more time and effort.
 
Texas - you got me and Jason mixed together. that's okay, just wanted to make sure that was recognized.

Jason - Yes, I actually mean to take the sealed bulb out of it's niche. There is usually enough wire to put it up on the deck. Be prepared for a PILE of yuck to be in there. Some folks will actually have their vac ready when they open it up.
 
Hi. I have been fortunate enough to never had a green pool like that, although I have had clear water with hidden algae and done two successful SLAMS this year.

I was just wondering if there is any value in draining, scrubbing and starting from fresh , when a pool is really green ? What are the thoughts on that ?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Some folks may chose to do that, but they usually evaluate the cost effectiveness based on the amount of gallons required to refill, etc. Even after a drain and attempts to clean, some residual algae may remain requiring a SLAM anyways. A smaller pool might be easier to consider draining, but a 36K pool, probably not so much. :) Either way, maintaining a SLAM will work. Just may take a little more time and effort.

Simon, Texas is right about draining 36k. It would cost an incredibly higher amount of money to replenish that water as opposed to a couple hundred bucks of liquid chlorine/bleach. But I would think you would definitely still need to scrub everything down after the drain even so. I would rather dump in chlorine and continue dumping chlorine :).

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Alright SLAM process has started! Tested water at about 130 local.

PH- 7.3
CYA- 33
FC- 0 (pre SLAM)

Pre SLAM:
3a1c339491f0ca0bff6ecbace255234f.jpg


e8b1af66a444fb2d1660bc55a154afc4.jpg


Added 5.75 gallons of liquid chlorine and brushed the pool walls. Timer set for 30 minutes.

Jason




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Hello, looks like you're off to a rapidly good start.

I have just a couple questions please.

As far as the 33 CYA how did you get it?

Which ml of sample water are you using? (OH and also when using the smaller samples which I saw where you were informed of that, you only have to use 1 scoop of the powder to check FC instead of 2. (So as long as the smaller sample turns a nice med/dk shade of pink, you are good to go. :)

What FC levels are you starting out with for your SLAM/Shock Level? In other words, are you slamming at a FC level for 30, 40, or somewhere in between for 35ppm?

What percent of bleach did you use?

Just wanting to get some of details, so we are all on the same page, and we can all assist you better should you need it.
 
Hello, looks like you're off to a rapidly good start.

I have just a couple questions please.

As far as the 33 CYA how did you get it?

Which ml of sample water are you using? (OH and also when using the smaller samples which I saw where you were informed of that, you only have to use 1 scoop of the powder to check FC instead of 2. (So as long as the smaller sample turns a nice med/dk shade of pink, you are good to go. :)

What FC levels are you starting out with for your SLAM/Shock Level? In other words, are you slamming at a FC level for 30, 40, or somewhere in between for 35ppm?

What percent of bleach did you use?

Just wanting to get some of details, so we are all on the same page, and we can all assist you better should you need it.

Thanks!!! I'm using 10%, I'm adjusting to the suggested shock level of 16ppm. For the first test I used the 25ml test and it took 21 drops to clear which should equal 4.2ppm FC. I added approx 4.5 gallons more of bleach to raise back to 16ppm. Great info on only needing one scoop for the 10ml test!!

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Oh so you are running off the 40 CYA then? You can spilt the difference if you want to too, and SLAM at 14ppm for a 35 CYA. You usually want to run the FC level 1-2ppm higher so you have some playroom there to prevent dropping below, But you also don't want to be too high for your actual CYA because it won't be good for the equipment/or safe to swim in once you begin doing that. It is safe to swim UP TO the Shock level for your actual CYA level. EDIT: So keep shooting for FC 16 but ensure it stays at least 14 or above to kill the algae.

Yeah, as far as just 1 scoop, lol a box of raisin bran it ain't I suppose. It does helps save a lot of reagents because at the beginning of a SLAM you really blow through them quickly. I had to reorder when I did mine because I ran out of some of them. Anyway I hope this helps, and thanks for the info. We'll be sitting in the background watching the progress. :) Have a nice day.
 
Oh also Poolman I'm not sure where you are getting your 10% at, but if you have a Rural King there you might want to check their prices because I've been running noting but 10% Liquid Shock since I started that RK carries for 7.99 for a CASE of 4.
 
Oh also Poolman I'm not sure where you are getting your 10% at, but if you have a Rural King there you might want to check their prices because I've been running noting but 10% Liquid Shock since I started that RK carries for 7.99 for a CASE of 4.

Thanks for all the info! Yeah I decided to go with 40ppm CYA because it hasn't been a full week since I put the conditioner in and I figured it wouldn't hurt (too bad) to bump FC shock up a few ppm. We're getting our liquid chlorine from a small pool shop. I clarified with them earlier because previously this week they told me 12% but the label today showed 10%. He said its delivered as 12 but dilutes to 10. They sell a 5gallon container for 17(tax included) plus a $12 core charge for the container(refundable upon return). I don't think we have any RK in this area.

Thanks,

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
5 PM UPDATE: pool water is turning from green to Aqua. We had to run to the pool store to get more bleach and we were gone for about an hour and a half before I was able to test again. Came home and tested to find FC-16ppm :) :) :) :)!!

Here are my tests thus far:
8/21 Tests (Pre SLAM) 1:30

PH- 7.3
CYA- 33 ppm
FC- 0

SLAMming with 10% Bleach
Raise from 0-16ppm= 737oz=5.75gallons CL

Test 1- 2:20
FC- 4.2ppm (21 drops) (25ml) x.2

Test 2- 3pm
FC- 15ppm (30 drops) (10ml) x.5

Test 3- 4:30pm (32 drops) (10ml) x.5
FC- 16ppm
Notes: Solid green gone, turned aqua blue.

Test 4- 5pm (31 drops) (10ml) x.5
FC- 15.5ppm

PRE SLAM 1:40pm:
70b8f7533dfa5fe1f51a338ee3ca6bf2.jpg


1.5hrs Progress 3pm:
7f8c601aace4e2dca54d65ba4fffd9c8.jpg


3hrs Progress 4:30pm:
671b3210a3a99b1659bc86cb38dcc989.jpg


Progress is awesome!!!!

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow, just wow! That is a huge difference in just one day. Keep up the great job. Should it clear enough that you decide you do want to swim in it while slamming please let the FC drop to 14ppm for safety before you get in. Other than that little safety tip all I can say is, Go You!!!! Have a nice night. :)

EDIT: Richard320 does a Green to Clean Inspirational thread that if you keep up this progress your pool may end up in?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.