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I managed to make my last post to the wrong thread! Conclusion: I replaced the control board (and membrane keypad) with the newer version (mine is the older unconnected heater), and it’s operating fine and showing correct temp again. It briefly shows an AFS error when starting the heater...

Well I replaced the Thermistor (no corrosion), Thermal Regulator Kit (it was stuck slightly open), and Manifold ByPass Valve (no corrosion), and the heater doesn't shut down prematurely with a Service Heater light. However the temperature shown is consistently about 7 degrees higher than it...

I have the OEM parts finally: Thermistor (temps way off, unless it's my Control Board) and Thermal Regulator (stuck open). Before I install them, a quick visual check did not show Manifold Bypass Valve stuck open. Is there any reason the manifold should be opened and cleaned and/or this part...

No, air gurgling through pipes on start, likely not a problem. Although I need to replace that thermal regulator, I think the thermister is giving wrong temp too.

I finally got a chance to pull the thermal regulator. It doesn't close completely. I got a cheap replacement, as that was the quickest, and it doesn't open until 180F .... should I spend 5 x the cost to get an OEM one?

I'm looking to see if my symptoms fit with a typical scenario before I call in the pool guy (who around here will try to sell me a new heater). Pentair Mastertemp 250 (Canada), installed 2015, the older un-connected control board and 5 button panel. SWG DE inground Pool. Has worked pretty...

Proof of Concept:

Taking this a bit further, I am a little confused, but I do think that if you use the Intelliconnect with an Intellichlor then you may lose one of the relays... but if you don't, and the software has "some" flexibility AND pool valve actuators have limit switches, then I could see perhaps one...

Who knows why they have a 433Mhz remote thrown in, but it doesn't change the price without it I think (cheap Chinese....cr@p... wait..EVERYTHING is manufactured on contract in China...). I would imagine there is some magic there related to garage door openers.

If Valve Actuator Motors have limit switches, then I am thinking this for simple control possibly: WiFi Momentary Relay Delay DC 7-32V 2 Channel Jog Inching Self-Locking WiFi Wireless Smart Home Switch APP Remote Control Module for iOS/Android,Compatible with Alexa(433Mhz Remote Included)...

I guess this: Intermatic Valve Actuator Controller PE140, either with a separate Z-Wave clock timer or PE653RC | MultiWave® Basic Control System or the Intelliconnect (but then we would be closer to an all in one system with the last two).

OK, now I get it, I was thinking that a valve actuator could be flipped in direction by being turned on and off sequentially (this is the heavy learning phase of my planned expedition). So now I am wondering if there are any relatively inexpensive Intermatic Valve Actuator controllers that...

Yes, sorry RS-485 (I was going by memory). I assumed the Relay specs just outline the max voltage that the internal relays can handle, and thus 24volts would be switched regardless (but that goes to show you what I know). "McGuyver" is my middle name. I will give Pentair or a local...

In fact I have read the installation manual for the Intelliconnect and it seems straightforward, I do need to replace RS-232 connect cables for the pump and heater that my original installer took with him before he went missing, and install a temperature sensor, plus the one valve and Actuator...

I am qualified to do the install.

Really constrained, but it is possible for me to get away with adding one valve and actuator at first, only for the Waterfall, and then program it to only come on when the Pool Pump is set to high flow. That would take care of what is the main automation purpose in this. (Or I could walk over...

Thank you for answering my thread! The 3 valves are garden variety, but I can easily change them out and planned to. I've just read the odd thread here and there on the forum poo pooing the Intelliconnect and wondering if it may be the lo cost simple solution I am looking for?

Perhaps this is a "talk me out of it" but I have a simple Pentair pool system with one skimmer, one waterfall, one gas heater, Quad-DE100 (means I only have to backwash or clean it when closing each year), Intelliclor-20, Aqualamp Rainbow Rays LED Pool Lights (x2 on same circuit) and two stair...