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I wish you lived in California... I have a nice reel I'm trying to get rid of I'd sell cheap.

Ooohh... I feel an idea for one of my kids' future science projects forming!

Honestly, it's easier than you think. Order up a good test kit (hint: get the TF-100 plus the speedstir), and set aside an hour or two of your time to read through the pool school section on this site, and try out the instructions that come with the test kit. I was intimidated at first, too...

Univar lol… Nice to be able to bring home a pail from work whenever I need it.

Chlorine made in the fall will still be fine by spring. It's really if it gets stored in heat, or especially sunlight that causes significant degradation. Sunlight generally is not an issue for the jugs in opaque cardboard boxes, and it doesn't normally get hot from fall to spring.

Whether it's the pool or something else, you should find out where that water is coming from before finalizing the purchase.

Unless you get a massive amount of rain, that calcium number looks quite low if you have been using cal-hypo.

Assuming your pH is actually at 6.2 and it's not just a problem with the test strips. You can probably go to a pool supply and get a proper drop pH test kit while you wait for your TF-100. The low pH should def be resolved asap as ajw22 said.

Add a few gallons of the liquid chlorine they sell at Home Depot or Lowes, or at least some jugs of liquid breach. Get a generic brand, not clorox or anything with any kind of fragrance, splashless, or other additives. Then wait for your TF-100, and post some proper test results, and plenty of...

$2.67 is a good price. Our local supermarket (Save Mart) also carries a generic 8.25%, very similar to that bottle except for the branding, and it's $4.29. Our Lowe's and Home Depot carries a 10% that comes in 2 gallon cases, and works out to about that same HEB price. But it's specifically...

Depends on whether the pool company bleach is 10% or 12%. If 10%, the grocery store is a better deal, if 12%, they are the same price.

Here is an article about calcium scaling -- assuming that is the problem you have. Calcium Scaling

Don't get discouraged doing it yourself, it's much better than using a pool service. You just need the right education and tools. All of which is available here. I learned everything I know and my pool looks great, and I save a lot of money.

What does the pool store tell you the chemistry numbers were usually at? It's not that easy to tell from the picture, but it looks like really bad scaling. I'm guessing you have pretty hard water there in Scottsdale? This could very well be a water chemistry issue, caused by high calcium...

Pine needles are a hassle if they are constantly going in your pool, I would try to avoid it if possible. The other thing you want to consider is shade. It makes a real big difference in your pool temperature, especially toward the end of the season if they are to the south of the pool. If...

I don't think there is any need for a chlorine backup system. They are probably talking about a chlorinator, which uses the pucks. You want to avoid those because they add CYA to the pool. They are useful when you are on vacation to make sure your FC doesn't go below adequate levels, but not...

Have your fill water tested for iron. If it doesn't have any, then it's a non-issue and you won't need to worry about it going forward as long as you don't add anything containing iron to your pool.

Spoiler alert -- everyone here on this forum is going to tell you to run hard and fast from those "sanitation system" recommendations you are getting. Also, just about everyone here will recommend a SWG. And these recommendations are based on the experience of THOUSANDS of people who are...

Once you complete the SLAM process described above, make sure you are raising your FC levels to what is indicated in the FC/CYA chart Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. On your CYA measurement, round up to 50, so you should be targeting 6 to 8 ppm on your FC, and never let it fall below 4 ppm.

Looks to me, on the right side of the first picture, you have 3 incoming pipes. So skimmer, main drain, and do you have any idea what the third one is? Could be a suction port. Only 1 of the 3 is open, I'm guessing the skimmer. My guess, if you do have a suction port, it's the pipe farthest...

Looking at your numbers, if what I'm reading is right you have 3 ppm free chlorine and 10 ppm total chlorine. So that indicates you probably have some kind of algae problem, most likely related to your high CYA and not having enough chlorine in the pool to compensate. So as you are doing your...

Look at all the ports in your pool, and determine if there are any that are not sending water back into the pool when your pump is running. Make sure all your valves are open when you do that. With all valves open, if you see one that is not blowing water, check to see if it is sucking water...

Have you looked into a variance? In California there is a state law under which you should be able to apply for what they call a minor deviation or variance. We had to do that when we built a patio cover, but had already reached our max lot coverage. There are four criteria, and at least in...

Nice, I really like your tile and concrete work!

Just announced all OSH stores to close by end of the year, liquidation to start Thursday. Very sad. But go get your chems! They also have some real nice patio sets and other poolside paradise gear.

Weird, and my original post doesn't show up except as the quote :scratch:

Absolutely! Take it up to 350 to protect the plaster from having its calcium leech in to the water! Maddie :flower:

Do yourself a favor and read Pool School - start with ABC's of Water Chemistry, then read all of it that possibly applies to your pool. I wish I had done that sooner. Well worth the time. Pool School - Pool School

I like it!

Go for it, build photos are in the link in my signature! And thank you!