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Don't use the chlorine test that uses the color comparator. Use the FAS-DPD drop test that comes in the kit. That's the only way to know for sure you're reaching and maintaining the chlorine level dictated by your CYA level. See .

Never thought of raising it before swimming! Thanks, @duraleigh !

Silicone caulk works fine if you don't have water actively leaking. If you do, try JB Water Weld. Stuff works underwater, and will repair an active leak. Amazon has it if you can't find it locally.

I've noticed my FC drops a ppm or two after people swim. Nasty, dirty people in my clean pool. So I generally add 1 to 2 ppm of chlorine (or have the swimmer add it) after swim time is done. That helps insure I never drop below minimum ppm.

We aren't just a bunch of pool enthusiasts, people who are actually in the industry live here too! Just post your questions and you'll get expert answers.

Yes, it's fine. Inaccurate for TFP purposes, but fine. You would record it as 0 CC.

In answer to your last post: YES!! That's the FAS-DPD test. That's what you need!

OTO stands for orthotolidine, which is the reagent used for the OTO test. You run it using the little block with colors on it, the same one you test for pH with. It looks like this. Ignore the text in the picture.

Yeah, don't use the OTO block, the color comparator block. Use an FAS-DPD kit and test your FC and CC. What Taylor kit are you using? We recommend either the TF-100 from TF Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C .

You test for CC in the TFP method. We don't calculate it, nor do we worry about TC. We use the FAS-DPD method to test for FC then, using that same solution you just tested, we test for CC. Don't use the OTO method. It's only accurate up to 5 ppm FC, and TFP pools generally have a higher FC than...

The main point of the mustard algae protocol is to bring it up to mustard levels and keep it there as best you can for 24 hours. That means checking it every 30 to 60 min and adding more chlorine. Scrub the pool vigorously between additions. Personally, I'd wait to start it til early tomorrow...

Don't take shortcuts. Start with a regular , do an to make sure your FC is holding, then when you pass the Three Criteria do the mustard SLAM. A lot of what TFP is about is consistency and accuracy.

You can't trust the pool store. They hire kids on summer break or retirees looking for a little extra money, barely train them, then turn them loose on the unsuspecting public to perform chemical testing they don't understand, while expecting them to be able to correlate the results into a true...

Did you ever try the mustard algae protocol?

While you're waiting, add 3 to 5 ppm FC to your pool to prevent an algae bloom. You can figure that easily using .

Don't use the amt given by all at once. You can overshoot your intended level. Start with half, then wait 24 to 48 hrs and test, then add half of what's left, test at 24 to 48 hrs, and so on until you reach your intended level. If you use liquid CYA be sure to shake it well, as the CYA tends to...

If it's a new fill, you won't have any CYA. You'll have to get some (it's usually called stabilizer) and add enough to bring it up to 30 or 40 ppm. Use to determine how much you need to add, then add about half that to sneak up on 30 to 40 (I'd go for 40 given where you are -- hot and sunny)...

Get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0947VFW3F/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=d428a5f269148ba3a9c5311d34157e23&hsa_cr_id=3042362510801&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=513e306c-c15f-4095-923d-85e0a4b48632&pd_rd_w=qDmtU&pd_rd_wg=CFI8U&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img You'll be...

No, if it didn't go pink after adding the drops, you have 0 CC. Good job!

You can fill the tube to 10 ml, add one heaping scoop of the FAS-DPD reagent, and count each drop as 0.5 ppm, making it so you divide the number of drops by half to get your FC. Saves on reagents, and you only rarely need the accuracy of 25 ml. What was your CC?

Personally I think you'd have better luck with a and treating for mustard algae like I suggested before. What are you going to do when this round of magic potions doesn't work? Try more? Phosphates don't matter. Treating for it is one of the Big Scams pool stores run to get money from you. The...

He mentioned he got stuff off Amazon. So there's that! :goodjob:

Be sure to scrub the spots hard, brown algae has an especially tough bio film layer. Wishing you a spot free future! :cheers:

Have you tried the mustard algae protocol? Can't hurt, might help... https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/mustard-algae/

This is gonna kill you, but test strips are highly unreliable, as well as start to deteriorate as soon as you open the bottle. You've essentially wasted your money there. You can buy one of our recommended test kits, the Taylor K2006C, through Amazon, as well as the salt kit K1766 I think...

Brown algae, though it looks like black algae, is more closely related to yellow or mustard algae. Some of the larger species are known as kelp, and many are edible. I Googled "brown algae" then "brown algae in pools". Since they're related to mustard algae, dealing with them follows the same...

It might be brown algae, which is a relative of mustard algae. Basically, you run a SLAM, then pass OCLT, then raise the FC for 24 hrs to the level specified in the mustard algae article in Pool School. And brush brush brush. You may need a kitchen scrub brush (nylon) to get the force to break...

Did you scrape off some and smear it on a white piece of paper? Just for grins and giggles.

Do like the article says -- scrape up some and smear it on a white paper. If it smears greenish black, it's black algae.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/black-algae/