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1. Yes, you can switch immediately. 2. You can add LC (Liquid Chlorine, aka. Bleach) any time. 3. The best way to add LC is to slowly pour it in front of a running return.

Also, check your Spam email folder. A lot of times "apparently unsolicited" messages get routed to Spam by most major email vendors.

You need to start somewhere and getting the TA up is a good place to start. Once you get the TA to a readable level you can start adjusting the other parameters and work on getting the water clear. You're focused on the cloudiness but it's not something to be concerned with immediately, that...

As eluded to above, don't worry about what the TA is right now, just assume that it's zero. Use Pool Math to figure out how much baking soda it takes to add 50 ppm TA and add about that amount. I did the math for you and it calls for 13 lbs, so I'd add about 10 lbs and let it mix and then see...

As said above, Do Not assume that it's zero. The best thing is to get a salt test kit, but in the mean time, Run a sample of your fill water to the nearest pool store and have them test it for salt. Don't let them sell you anything just get the readout for salt level.

Alabama passed a law that any online sales whether they have a physical presence or not has to charge a sales tax on items shipped to the state. So Georgia may have a similar law and Virginia may not.

Can you post a picture of the skimmer and plate? My first thought is to fill the holes with some epoxy and redrill the holes so the screws will tighten, but a pic might give us more ideas.

First thing to do is make sure the pump head is firmly seated on the gearbox. It twists slightly and can be removed. If it's not that, and it's only 4 months old, contact Stenner and they will help you out.

As for how long the bleach will last, it will last a pretty good while since it will be out of the sunlight and in a coolish environment. As for the odor, there may be some, but it shouldn't be bad at all. Ideally the room should be vented outdoors, but since I assume the room temp is...

To answer your question exactly as asked, Absolutely not!!!. Ok I'm being a little facetious, but to me Liquid Chlorine is 100% Chlorine gas that is pressurized and cooled to below the vaporization temperature, so it is 100% chlorine in liquid form! :) As for the picture you posted, as said...

As Tris said, pictures of the pool and equipment would help. There's also a pictorial equipment guide of pool equipment you can look through and that may help you figure things out. Visual Encyclopedia of Pool Equipment

The above video is good to watch. There are only a couple of differences in how we did it and how they did it. Basically here are the steps. Once you have the bottom prepared you hoist the folded up liner into the center of the pool. This is the part that requires the muscles! I have a tractor...

The DW and I installed our 24' by ourselves. Get a shop vac and don't be afraid to reset it a few times.

If you're using 1½ to 2 gallons per 7 day week then that works out to about 30 oz a day or about 2 ppm per day FC loss. I'd say that's about normal. Having higher CYA has diminishing returns. There's a sweet spot where you have enough but going much above that doesn't use proportionately less FC.

Welcome to TFP. You're only supposed to pour the revitalizer (which we don't recommend at all) in the skimmer while backwashing. So, it appears that you either used it while the valve was on filter, or the valve is leaking water into the pool when on backwash. Can you post a full set of test...

Sounds like you have a good plan. If you use the solar cover whenever you're not using the pool, you can get close to 1 ppm FC per day loss, so you could go a few days without having to add any FC. Just don't get too lax about testing because it could drop from an unexpected introduction of...

The pipe with the valve in it is the waste line, so I can't imagine why he'd think you could get dirt back into the pool through there. If the multiport valve was leaking it would leak water out that port not suck dirt back into it! The only reason you might need that valve was if the waste...

I don't think the lateral assembly is supposed to 'spin'. It should be stationary in the filter once it's installed. In fact it will be encased in the sand so it can't spin.

I'd be more inclined to believe that you have some organics consuming the FC instead of the bleach losing that much potency.

Definitely make the pool company tell you what all they put in the pool.

I have a Stenner Peristaltic Pump and a 15 gallon plastic drum. I didn't buy the Stenner tank, but they make a pretty neat combo of everything you need except a timer to get running.

There are all kind of ways to get the bleach into the pool that doesn't cause splashing. As Dustin mentioned there are injection pumps that inject the bleach so you're only handling the jugs once every few weeks. That's what I have and I can load 15 gallons of bleach in it at a time, so I only...

Yeah, that's a fiber optic light lens. Even though they're dim, a good cleaning and a new lamp might brighten them up a lot. Do you know the make? there'll be a tower that houses the lamp and color wheel probably near the pad pr power panel.

Surprisingly the Intex sand filters are pretty powerful, compared to the cartridge filters. It should work for that pool. The biggest issue is to follow the chemical recommendations here, and as long as you maintain the levels the filter will be fine. Can you tell us which model you have?

The SpeedStir is one of those things you don't know you need until you get it, and then you wonder how you ever did without it! Definitely get the SS! :) You really won't regret it. Nor will you ever be without one again. P.S. I have three! Two SpeedStirs and an Apollo. Don't ask!

The easiest test is to plug it on both ends (plugging the wall fitting and closing a valve will work) and see if it stops leaking. Depending on how long your piping is, you could get one of those bore-scopes that attach to your phone and run it in the piping to see if you can find something...

Have you performed the bucket test with the pump both on and off? Normally if the leak is on the suction side you will have bubbles in the pump basket and you will usually lose more water with the pump off than on. However with a leak on the return side, there won't be any bubbles and you'll...

Since you're in Malaysia I'm sure it isn't easy to get a good kit. I'm kinda thinking like Neemer, it appears that the OTO and pH are switched. One thing about the OTO test is that it doesn't 'bleach' out in very high chlorine so it'll turn yellow to orange to red as the chlorine gets higher...

An 18' is going to be pretty small for 4 people. It's certainly doable, but it'll get small pretty quick. Would your lot allow you to go with an oval pool? Maybe a 16' X 32' or an 18' X 33'? If you can't fit anything else, I'd definitely go with the 18'.