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Good morning. I was asked to check in on your thread but only have a minute as my TFP time has been greatly reduced lately via new puppy and ailing father-in-law ;) There are a few things that may help going forward. First off, if you used Jacks step stuff initially, please note that it is not...

Good morning. I’m not convinced that conquest actually removed the copper, but merely sequestered part of it...which was likely released again if you elevated your FC by much. The Ascorbic Acid in stain free will lift the stain, but you need sequestrant to then control the metal freed back into...

Greetings, melandcam. I’ve been working up some new language to help new forum members quickly get the gist of the TFP difference vs Pool industry lingo and I’d love your feedback. Tell me if this makes sense to you or assists in your understanding of our practices:

Frogparadise, sounds like you’re well in hand. I’m just adding my vote for a trash pump...you can rent the big ones at Home Depot for about $65. Kim, I missed the deer thread entirely but during my blackwater foreclosure stint I literally had nightmares that while scooping I’d find a deer since...

I guess treatment will depend on whether it’s algae or mold, dead or alive, etc. If it’s mold/mildew, try an application of boric acid if you have any - it is fungicidal but also benefits the pool water. If it’s just stained from prior mold and doesn’t respond to chlorine or boric acid, I...

Highly unlikely to cause any damage. It’s a very mild acid (AA). Sequestrant generally is protective of equipment at normal levels.

Yes, as in my experience, Metal Free hasn’t shown to be effective for many posters as it’s not HEDP.

Canjones, I have a theory about why some slams go fast...I think when you’ve spent as much time on this forum as some guides have, you completely understand that any minute you’re below your true slam level, you’re not actually slamming. I'm not sure less experienced folks fully grasp this...

Nice job on the slam...why aren’t they all this easy? Lol. Re.this: No TFPers doing a slam would ever have FC low enough to need to spot treat an organic stain...so not sure there either. They might be getting confused with Metal treatments ... dry acid works on copper in particular. It’s a...

Hi Yann. You're safe to swim, and as Marty suggested, can't remove sequestered metal. But since your rate is low, over time it should dilute if there's no incoming metal. You may need low, periodic maintenance doses, but you can let your eyes be the guide. If the product was inclined to lift...

So, your results look great. I'd say you're just dealing with "legacy ignorance issues" as Jezza suggests. Try an HEDP-based sequestrant, observe, then consider the gentle acid wash if that in itself does not lift the stains, which it may.

Yann, that product is specifically for calcium build up and is a poly acrylite product, which is different from HEDP and in my opinion, reportedly less effective for sequestering metals (which it doesn't even claim to do.) However, since the previous owners had it on hand, that tells me that...

Hi Yann. Regarding this: Sometimes a metal will combine with scale, in which case acid works better at cleaning it. This can happen with either copper or iron. In your shoes, I'd take a 2-step approach. First, I'd add sequestrant just to see if by itself it improved the stains. I don't know...

In response to your question, try the sodium bi sulphate.

Good morning, Yann. Of the two, if the readings are correct, copper is higher and ergo possibly the culprit, though as James said, readings are tricky. See which of those tests work best before considering any of the treatments I mention below. I've had posters report good results using this...

Egads, I'd missed all of page two...forgive the redundancy! When I'd thought I was posting it was back at James original question ;) having theme/operator troubles here ;)

Hi Yan. Sorry you're not getting results but I have a hunch, as does James I think ;) Re: Pucks are acidic and acid will sometimes liberate a metal stain. So the following min-tests might help demystify the stains. 1. If you have or can get a small bit of dry acid (eg little bottle of spa ph...

Can you get a better picture of the two stains in question? You might be able to spot treat them with dry acid in a sock. Its cheap and worth a try before going down the long and pricey Jacks route. That's what I'd try next. The full jacks treatment would be a last resort. But you will need...

In general, if chlorine will remove a stain, it is organic in nature. If vit c will remove a stain, it is most likely iron. Vit c on copper might remove it, but also is likely to darken it first, eg turn blackish. Copper stain removal is typically better using MA in a spot utensil or sulfamic...

As you may have gathered, you're victim to a "Natural chemistry" cross marketing ploy here that has nothing to do with anything real, IMHO. Because I use phosphonic metal sequestrant, I've successfully treated stains with the same components as what's in stain free with tens of thousands of ppbs...

Do you have a read on metals in your well water? Eg. Maganese can also make that color of stain...but in theory I'd expect it to respond a little to ascorbic acid, whereas copper sometimes just goes darker. Another test on the copper theory once you've completed the slam would be to try dry...

Can you smear some on a white paper towel? My understanding is that this will help identify based on hue and texture...mustard algae is slimy, whereas pollin is spongy. Here's a pic posted long ago by a forum mod/admin. His report was that this would occur and reoccur in the same shady area.

I was referring to my earlier comment to take a turkey baster to gather up a sample of the water with the algae in it and squirt it onto a white paper towel, then smear the grains and report back the color and texture of the smear. It helps distinguish mustard algae from sand or dirt or pollen...

Chris, thanks for clearing some of those question up. During the time between slam and your recent reading of 8 ppm, were you testing and adding FC daily? Your presenting question was why you were having algae at high FC rates, so that's why I'm trying to narrow the variables a bit ;) If it's...

Greetings. There are a few things a bit confusing to me. Maybe your answers will help sort out the whys ;) 1. You were chlorinating with cal hypo and yet your ch in a plaster pool is 190? We're you adding and testing FC daily? I'm not sure I understand why your ch is so low. It doesn't quite...

Have you tried capturing some of the brown substance with a turkey Baster and smearing it on a white paper towel just to confirm that its mustard algae as opposed to fine sand (if you have a sand filter) or dust from the construction etc.?

^not with active algae and def. not til you've remedied the ammonia. More suited if bad sand/silt/soil is causing pool cloudiness or if there's heavy silt from an otherwise successful (slam-wise) swamp recovery. Eg., after you pass oclt, which you wouldn't with ammonia. In your case, you need...

Shayanhe, if it is a growth behind your liner, its possible you have a small, possibly pinhole leak thats allowing water to sit behind it, trapped, and the FC wears off. I've not known a poster directly whose tried this, but have see reports that in some cases, treating soil surrounding the...

Welcome to TFP, Lindsay. In addition to Cao's excellent questions that will help determine your way forward, here are a few initial tips, plus an important caveat at the end ;) 1. Metals such as iron or copper oxidize with high ph or levels (shock) of Free Chlorine. 2. While the water is...

Circupool RJ60 puts out 3 lbs of chlorine gas a day versus the 1.45 lbs the T15. Autopilot has a unit that puts out 2 lbs a day. But you'd have to change the whole system, not just the cell. Here's a Hayward blog about "commercial" size (40k and up) solutions...they have a commercial unit tat...