Can't understand where I'm going wrong

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chris-md

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Jul 28, 2017
37
Silver Spring, MD
Hello everyone!

hope I can get some insight. To start, my numbers from the Taylor kit:

pH 7.4
FC 8ppm (first time below 12ppm in months)
CYA 50 (up until a week ago it hovered at 35-40)
TA 60
CA hardness 190

i SLAMMED the pool at the end of June and was able to successfully conclude it 3 weeks later - OCLT passed several nights in a Row, water was clear, and CC chlorine was less than .5 several nights in a row.

However, I've always had this feeling that the algae wasn't fully gone. Seems if it drifted below 15ppm, some indication of algae reared, often clouds on the wall when I brushed. so since end of June FC has been kept up over 12 ppm. Most of that even above 16.

Ive been vindicated because my green swamp monster is returning, confirming my suspicions.. I'm hoping you can explain why I'm having this problem. Here's why I don't understand:

1) CYA has never been over 50, so at most my target maintenance FC should be 8ppm. When I finished SLAMMING my CYA was 35. 50 CYA has happened just over the last couple weeks. Mini blooms have happened with CYA 40 and FC 18-20.

2) given my CYA levels, I've been above shock level for months.

So so I ask you, why am I having an algae blooms ABOVE shock level?

To be clear, current FC levels was allowed to drift below 12 only over the last couple days to allow for pH measurements before I could restart full SLAM procedure, which happened tonight. SWAMP STARTED BEFORE I LET IT DRIFT DOWN. Drift down was a result of the beginnings of the monster.
 
Hi there. I'm using the Taylor 2006k kit and chlorinating with calhypo. The calcium is kept under control by virtue of various reasons for small drain/refills. I started with dichlor pucks but with the high FC I have had to maintain they are basically useless. And at CYA 50, I don't need to be adding more of that.
 
Hello!

So I really like all the info you gave us! Thank you!

The big thing we need to identify is how the CYA went from 35 to 50 ... did you increase it intentionally? still have dichlor/trichlor in a floater? Or it just kept increasing even only using calhypo?
 
There a number of things to consider: How many skimmers and returns to you have? How is the circulation? How often to brush? When you've done your SLAMs did you check behind, under, inside anything and everything in the water? I've read of some interesting things hiding inside light niches. There was even a member with algae hiding in their skimmer box.
 
Hello Bob, thank you for your message. The concern is that algae is EXPANDING under SLAM level FC conditions. At one point, if I remember the FC reading was 19, there was a cloud of orange algae around the main drain in the deep end one morning - got broken up soon after the Polaris was turned on.

So algae hasn't really hidden all that much. But under 16+ FC levels for 2-3 months it should have all been killed off. My brushing has focused on all plaster surfaces and the ladder which does collect algae as well.

While I'm at it, with the OCLT, can there be a LITTLE CC present to be considered done (like .25ppm) or is the actual reading supposed to be 0 to be considered done with SLAMMING?
 
Ok, so I took a different look at everything and at least have 80% answer to my current swamp monster. About a week ago I set the pool pump to operate 23 hours a day. Problem is I reversed the pins!! So the the pump is actually set to be OFF 23 hours a day! I knew something was off because I came back to a 2/3 full spa every day during this tim but didn't know why.

Now that that has fixed it still I'm still trying to understand persistent algae under constant SLAM conditions.
 

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chris-md said:
Hi there. I'm using the Taylor 2006k kit and chlorinating with calhypo. The calcium is kept under control by virtue of various reasons for small drain/refills. I started with dichlor pucks but with the high FC I have had to maintain they are basically useless. And at CYA 50, I don't need to be adding more of that.
Click to expand...

I think a SLAM is best performed with "pool" liquid chlorine (10%, 12%) or "store" concentrated bleach (6% or 8.25%)
 
chris-md said:
I'm a little confused there. Chlorine is chlorine, regardless of source, right? Plus I'm on the low end for calcium hardness and TA, calhypo would seem to be the logical choice no?
Click to expand...

When folks are new, and having trouble with their water we like to always use single ingredient sources for Chlorine, Calcium, CYA, etc. It is easier to obtain the results you desire and testing accuracy by not using compound products.

Chlorine is Chlorine, you're right! But then you're trying to clear up a schmutzy pool- so will you know if your water is cloudy from dead algae or the calcium you added?

Maddie :flower:
 
Greetings.
There are a few things a bit confusing to me. Maybe your answers will help sort out the whys ;)

1. You were chlorinating with cal hypo and yet your ch in a plaster pool is 190? We're you adding and testing FC daily? I'm not sure I understand why your ch is so low. It doesn't quite add up. For every 10 ppm of cal hypo, you're adding 6 ppm of CH.

2. You referred to algae as being "orange"?
At one point, if I remember the FC reading was 19, there was a cloud of orange algae around the main drain in the deep end one morning - got broken up soon after the Polaris was turned on.
Click to expand...

- Do you mean mustard algae? The main drain would be an odd place for that as opposed to a shady wall, though there is a type that can collect on floor. When you slammed the first time, was the algae yellow and did you do a mustard algae treatment? If its mustard algae (which it may or may not be), it is very resistant to chlorine. But I think we need to know more about what you're seeing when you say have algae. If its mustard algae, there is more f a decontamination process required, and a higher slam level "burst" at the end of the slam

So, in order to better help you, please capture some in a turkey baster and smear it on a white paper towel. Tell us what you see.

3. As you've guessed, the pump plays a huge role in terms of circulating the FC through areas where algae may be inclined to collect, so solving this should help a great deal. But if you were adding and testing every day, you need to do each with pump running. Was the pump running when you tested and dosed your chlorine each day?
 
Good morning swampwoman! To answer your questions:

1) for various reasons I've had to partially empty and refill my pool. For example the tail of the Polaris flipping over the coping of the pool sometime late morning and not being caught til I get home at six, pumping water out of the pool for 7 hours.

2) the orange cloud was a one time occurrence. It was a literal orange cloud suspended in the water column surrounding the main drain, measuring approximately 1 ft in diameter. I call it algae because it's the only thing I could think that it could be. It appeared overnight, and quickly disappeared when the Polaris I had just turned on drove right through it. I haven't seen it again since.

Maddie - thank you for the clear explanation. I think you'll find I'm a quicker study than most of the newbies that come by. I'm happy to work primarily with compound products as needed. Especially since pool will be covered and closed in less than a month I'd like to make sure chemistry is properly balanced before this :)
 
Swampwoman - to address got more specific questions:

aside from the pump mistake I made this week, the pump runs between 12-23 hours a day. Since concluding the last SLAM, and being unsure of why algae keeps cropping up at SLAM level FC, I've vascillated between regular timing and SLAM timing, being unsure what to do. Chems were always added while pump was running.

For the larger algae issues, the cloud of algae i see when brushing is often a cammoflauge green/touch of yellow/orange. But predominantly in the green family.
 
Chris, thanks for clearing some of those question up. During the time between slam and your recent reading of 8 ppm, were you testing and adding FC daily?

Your presenting question was why you were having algae at high FC rates, so that's why I'm trying to narrow the variables a bit ;)

If it's been a mustard algae strain, you need to follow a different protocol to eliminate it. That would be one explanation as to why you were experiencing it despite high FC levels.

The Baster test may be worthwhile, as would reading up a bit on mustard algae to see if the description resonates. If you dx mustard algae, you should presently do a normal SLAM Process followed by a day of mustard alge level slam and a complete disinfection of all tools/toys used on the pool, plus a thorough backwash of filter. The micron size of MA is very small, and it is more chlorine resistant than green algae, so it can linger and await opportunity if these measures aren't taken.
 

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