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Do you have borates recorded in the app? With borates on board, more acid is required to reduce pH.

No regrets here. Give your SWG the best chance at survival by maintaining chemistry within TFP guidelines. Keep TA below 80 ppm to avoid scaling and CSI between 0.0 and -0.30. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/calcium-saturation-index-csi/...

Here is what the Effects of Adding page will look like. You can adjust runtime and SWG percentage as desired.

The Taylor kit is great...no regrets. Do you know your current daily FC loss? To dial in FC, use liquid chlorine to reach target level before setting SWG. Use Pool Math "Effects of Adding" tab to calculate how long and and what percentage to run SWG to your daily loss. If you're not sure, set...

For this test, continue dropping until there is no further color change. Subtract the drop that results in no color change. Don't worry so much about the shade of red.

With a CH of 200 ppm, you will constantly be battling CH rise. As water evaporates, it leaves behind solids, including calcium. Each time you top off, you add more calcium, stacking it on top of existing levels. This cycle will have you exchanging water by the end of the swim season to reduce...

Confirm you're using a 25 ml water sample.

I should mention...use the "sock" method for adding CYA. Add CYA to a sock or nylon and hang in front of return or place in the skimmer. I usually use nylon knee-highs and limit the amount of CYA to about 1.5 lbs. for each one. I let them soak for about 20 minutes, then squeeze/massage until the...

Add 20 ppm of CYA. Wait 24 hours and retest. Your target for a liquid chlorine pool is 30-40 ppm, but you don't want to overshoot your target. Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine and test after 20 minutes to make sure it holds. If the water is cloudy with no FC, it's likely algae. Do an to confirm...

This is a good starting point: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/basic-pool-care-schedule/ Once you get to understand the needs of your pool, your testing frequency can decrease. Most important is maintaining your FC and not allowing it to fall below the minimum for your CYA...

I wouldn't want CH to be below 200 ppm for any extended amount of time. At that level, your water is starving for calcium so it will take it from plaster surfaces. Make sure your tracking CSI on Pool Math. Your's may be too aggressive with such a low CH level. Keep CSI between 0.0 and -0.30. I...

This is a pretty good value for 6 lbs at $22 from Amazon. Quick shipping for me.

Given your test results and the photo of clear water, your pool is safe.

Keeping your TA level on the lower end of the ideal range, 60 ppm, will help to reduce scaling within the SWG cell. Managing this level should be pretty easy as your fill water TA is at 60 ppm. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/what-are-my-ideal-pool-levels/

I have a RV softener as well. It's not the best solution but it works. Mine is a bit larger than Kul's. Manual flushing is a pain. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/rv-water-softener-for-auto-fill-line.225917/post-2111588 If you have access to the water fill line, an electrical source...

Here's an article that may help you schedule your routine maintenance... https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/basic-pool-care-schedule/

This. As a new user of the kit, test FC daily until you see how FC is holding. You should be able to estimate your pool's daily FC demand and adjust dosage accordingly. From there, you can reduce FC testing frequency as your comfort level increases. Test pH with the same frequency, TA once a...

A solar cover will slow down evaporation to help keep you from adding additional calcium. A water softener will remove the calcium before it goes into the pool. Also avoid chlorinating solids containing calcium (cal-hypo or calcium hypochlorite).

The chlorine test on the comparator block can best be described as a go/no-go for chlorine. It doesn't provide the level of accuracy necessary to manage your pool on a daily basis. Use the FAS/DPD drop-based test for that. Welcome to TFP!

Welcome to the forum! Most of us are here because we screwed something up or ended up with a swamp. A new liner is a great excuse to invest in a proper test kit () and take control of your pool. Take time to read through the articles in Post #2. Most important is to properly chlorinate your pool...

Your CYA is too high. Retest using the diluted water sample for the instructions. If your CYA is that high, your FC level is too low. See .

It's actually a good idea to do it while it's raining. It will help to keep the exposed plaster moist during the process. Just have liquid chlorine on hand. You may need muriatic acid to reduce pH as well. Hold off on purchasing anything else.

This will help keep pH and TA in check while out of town... If you plan on staying in the house long enough to realize a ROI, consider a SWCG.

For the CYA test, complete the test using a diluted sample: Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water. Shake briefly to mix. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower...

The TA of your fill water is a significant player in TA maintenance, particularly during swim season when evaporation is at its highest. Test the TA of your fill water to give you idea of how it will effect TA over time.

Look up your recommended levels here: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/what-are-my-ideal-pool-levels/ Assuming the test results are accurate, the calcium hardness is within TFP's recommended range. I suspect the CYA result is from the Pool Store. Most test kits I'm aware of can't even...

Add enough liquid chlorine daily to maintain FC at 5 ppm. Wait for kit and post results.

I had my tile blasted recently to remove waterline scale. Having maintained my pool following TFP methodology for the last 6 years, it's my opinion that waterline scale can occur at TFP recommended CH and CSI levels. It's more the result of the continuous cycle of evaporation in the same area...

I doubt you'll notice anything. Tfp says CSI between plus 0.6 and - 0.6 is okay. You seem to have a very good understanding on how to get to where you need to be. Do your best to maintain CSI between -0.3 and 0.0.

I wouldn't sweat the CSI for now. Just allow your pH to ride up a bit. Warmer temperatures and top offs due to evaporation will quickly bring you into range.