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Hi, welcome to TFP! That looks like DE to me! Either there was some "user error" going on or you have a hole in your grids. Can you post some photos of your equipment area, especially the filter and any valves in or out of it? Do you know if they did any work on the filter?

Yes. Keeping the pH on the low end of the acceptable range will help the calcium stay in solution in the pool water and not deposit on tiles, walls, and floor. As the calcium releases back into solution you should notice your CH test result rise a bit.

It looks like your pH tends to run on the high side. Have you had a large fresh water replacement lately? It looks like last season your CH was at 400 and its currently showing 250. 400ppm for CH is not outrageous but it is on the high side. With persistently high ph that could cause scale...

You may have iron but not enough to oxidize and turn the water brown. I am assuming you had to top off the water to get the pool up and running. Do you have any recent test results? If you are passing the OCLT then I would try adding some sequestrant and see if clears the water. What I think...

Hi, welcome to TFP! Check both the hose and the fixture for hairline cracks. They may not be visible until you apply pressure. Can you plug that return fixture from the pool side?

As far as my fellow Texans are concerned, until we get word that the power grid has been repaired/replaced and is able to handle weather emergencies, assume you will lose power for days in a hard freeze and prepare accordingly. We have had hard freezes that were just as long in the past so no...

No, part two. Also the liner will dry out and shrink. When the liner shrinks it cannot be re-used and must be replaced. Once the pool is repaired it should be refilled. If you plan to close the pool for winter you only need to fill it to just below the skimmer and return (whichever opening is...

Liquid chlorine loses strength over time, so it doesn't do any good to stockpile over the winter. If you winterize your pool you may need a little CYA for opening or salt if you use an SWG.

I would bring the pH up to 7.2 You still need to protect the pool surface and equipment that may be damaged by long term exposure to low pH.

You probably still have some iron in solution and that tends to give the water a yellow tint. Combined with blue liner you get clear green pool. If the water is cloudy green you may need to slam the pool.

Round up your CYA level to 40 and use that value to calculate FC for slam level. Sand filters do take a long time to clear a pool, but you can help that process by adding a little DE or celulos pool fiber to the filter to help catch finer debris particles.

You would see the pressure in the filter rising in a fairly short period of time, like a week or two, indicating it is time to clean the filter if it were too small. Do you currently have a green pool you are trying to clear? If so you need to follow the and keep the pump and filter running...

You do not want to add DE to a regular cartridge filter. Cartridge filters will not get a boost in performance by adding DE. That applies only to sand filters. Cartridge filters already filter as much or more than a DE filter. Adding DE to a cartridge filter will just cause if to get dirty...

You are correct. In time this will filter out. I don't think you need to change the sand in the filter, but if you wish you could do a deep cleaning. You can also add some DE to the filter to help capture the finer debris.

Clean DE will fall off the grids when the pump is turned off. Dirty DE cakes onto the grids and builds up over time. Even though you bump and backwash a DE filter, eventually you have to open it up and hose off the grids to get it clean. Ionizer your filter is not that dirty yet, but when...

I would say it is dead algae. Have someone help next time you vacuum. Hold a sock over a return to capture anything that escapes the filter. If you capture any powder, then you will need to inspect the grids. If you don't, its dead algae settling on the floor of the pool.

The pool is not filled yet. Some test values will change as the pool is filled.

I would go ahead and add a gallon and give the pool a brushing to help mix it in.

I would do an OCLT after it fills. You probably will need a quick slam, but it looks like they pumped all the gross water out and pressure washed the pool. You can request more CYA to have on hand so you can raise it to 70ppm when it is warm enough to run the SWG, but for now you only need...

The cover floats on the surface of the pool. If there is a hole in the cover the cover pump will pump the water out of the pool, and the cover will sink as much as the anchors will allow it to sink. I would get all the leaves and junk off the cover, pull it out of the pool and inspect it for...

Did it look this low before they started draining the cover?

Check the waste line on the multiport valve for your filter and make sure its is not leaking water. Do you have a main drain in the floor of the pool? Any current pictures of the pool, cover, and equipment pad would help.

It is a slightly stronger concentration of Chlorox (7.55% vs 6.5 %). It does contain the Chloromax polymeres, but if you have been using Chlorox with Chloromax in your pool without problems then this stuff should be fine. Just change the strength in poolmath to calculate the correct amount to add.

TFtestkits.net has some nice glycerin filled gauges. Pressure Gauge Glycerin filled 2.5" Bottom Mount

Was the pressure gauge taken out when the pool was winterized? I would try shutting off the valves for intake and return, put the multiport in the closed position and unscrew the gauge from the multiport. Some water may squirt out. Hold it above your head and turn it upside down and see if...

You can shut the filter off overnight and see if the dead algae settles enough to see the bottom of the deep end. If its clear and he can't come out that day slowly vacuum to waste in the deep end, keep adding bleach and filter during the day, and let it settle overnight again. If letting it...

What are your current test results? We'll use those to estimate how much to drain.

If you have room to store it in case you don't need it right away then go ahead and pick up some salt, but fill, circulate, and test your water before you add it.

Hi, welcome to TFP! I would go ahead and drain some water to lower the CYA. You can to calculate how much you need to drain for a CYA of 30ppm. Once you refill the pool, adjust pH to 7.2 If your water is clear you can bring the FC up to normal target level using pool math, and run the to...

Good news is you have plenty of water to backwash the filter!