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It’s not shown on the parts diagram but the bottom manifold #8 plugs into the outlet pipe assembly #17. That pipe has an o-ring around it in a groove. The bottom manifold should get pulled off with every cleaning and that o-ring should be inspected and lubed. Otherwise dirty water will...

Ah. Ok. Misunderstood then …

Silicone does not need to “cure”, it’s a lubricant and non-hardening sealant for the o-ring, not glue. You can put the pool right back into service after applying it and getting everything sealed back up.

The AA caused an algae bloom and that’s the cloudiness you see. It doesn’t burn off a layer of plaster. You need to SLAM the pool to kill all the algae and clear it up with filtration if you don’t want to drain it. But SLAM’ing the pool will bring all/most of the stains back.

I see it in the first post. Please update your Signature under your profile settings so that your pool equipment info gets appended to every post. It’s hard to help when we have to constantly look back at old posts to find the info. Your CCP filter has an internal-ring on the bottom manifold...

Letting the precipitate fall and then doing a slow manual vacuum to waste would be best. But if you don’t have the equipment setup to do that, then all you can do is brush and filter until it clears. That could take a while. Unless there’s something obviously wrong with your filter reassembly...

Its calcium carbonate scale from all the calcium hypochlorite shock. It’s well known to cause water cloudiness and scale. You can have a negative saturation balance and still get scaling … the saturation index just tells you whether or not the water is capable of absorbing or holding calcium...

https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=SWG_How_It_Works

LC is hit and miss all over AZ. Walmart may have better prices as the season wears on. It’s basically just a game of price shopping and looking for deals when they pop up. Do yourself a favor and invest in a salt water chlorine generator for your pool … then you won’t ever have to ask about...

It’s fine. Both liquid chlorine and cal-hypo are alkaline substances. There’s no danger except for high FC. As Marty said, just brush it and you’ll be fine.

Yeah. You definitely want to close a pool when the water temp gets below 60F and you should definitely bring it up to SLAM level. Otherwise …. pea soup awaits you … maybe you shouldn’t be the one rectifying the mess 😉 Some light reading for your hubs -...

what was you CYA level when you closed the pool last year? A zero CYA reading with smelly green water could potentially mean ammonia is present. That will make slamming the pool all the more hard.

The biggest thing that kills heaters is having pool water that is out of balance chemically with low pH being the biggest culprit. Inline trichlor feeders are the biggest killer of heaters because they create a corrosive stew of chlorine and low pH when the pump turns off. Even though the...

The article is a fine primer on corrosion and the author does a decent job of bringing the issue down to the level of the reader. As he states at the end, corrosion is far more complex than can be stated in a 2 page article … there are thick textbooks written on the subject! The zinc anode...

Your CYA is less than 20ppm.

Sulfates don’t hurt gardens. Sulfates are a soil nutrient needed by all plants. Only excessively high levels would cause problems. If the equipment is below grade and in a confined space, then you shouldn’t use HCl as the vapors will accumulate and cause issues. You either have to continue...

From a human safety perspective, HCl is much safer to use than sulfuric acid. The human skin can tolerate direct contact with HCl for many minutes without issue giving you plenty of time to wash it off while sulfuric acid will immediately cause chemical burns and damage skin. HCl vapors can...

It is ALWAYS better in a residential outdoor pool to have CYA in the water where chlorine is held in reserve. Zero CYA doesn’t work in actual practice without serious amounts of highly automated measurements and dosing as well as constant filtration.

Arizona can mean a lot of different things in terms of climate - a pool in Flagstaff is going to operated differently from a pool in Yuma. Where exactly are you in Arizona?? Also, what is your pool size in gallons? I don't see that in your signature. Are you testing by using your own test...

Mixing a pound of dry cal hypo into a 5 gallon bucket that most people can’t lift when there’s more than 3 gallons of water in it creates an incredibly concentrated and caustic bleach mixture. Most of the cal hypo won’t dissolve anyway. It also gives off a little bit of heat. So now you have...

Are you vacuuming to waste or vacuuming to filter? If floc is present, then you have to vacuum to waste otherwise the floc gets embedded into the filter media, degrades back into fine particulates, and then those fines are released back into the water. Floc should only ever be used when a pool...

There is no difference in the effect of dry versus muriatic acid in terms of pH … the “protect your tiles” line is a load of malarkey. Muriatic acid is just fine - just add it by pouring it slowly (pencil diameter stream) in from of a fast-moving return in the deep end of the pool. Then gently...

There is no difference in the effect of dry versus muriatic acid in terms of pH … the “protect your tiles” line is a load of malarkey. Muriatic acid is just fine - just add it by pouring it slowly (pencil diameter stream) in front of a fast-moving return in the deep end of the pool. Then...

Meh. Chlorine … it’s a beautiful thing … and far better than the exploding sea whales -

It looks like it’s been in there a while. When small rodents and animals sit in the skimmer for a long time, they lose whatever hair they have. Eventually they bloat up from water absorption. The final stages are where the flesh turn into a gelatinous goo and the create disintegrates when you...

I don’t think that jar test really tells you anything without proper controls. In any small volume of water like that, leaving it to sit will result in some settling to occur and the clarity is misleading when looking at a small volume. A few inches of water that looks clear could easily be...

As the weather warms up here and we get more and more daylight hours, the intense UV is going to tear through your chlorine. 30ppm CYA might work for now but once the oven door opens up on June 1st (it’s always June 1st when the heat really kicks in), you’re going to need higher levels of CYA...

A salt water chlorine generator is an expensive upfront cost but you are basically buying all of your chlorine for years to come. So when you look at it that way, it’s a huge savings. And it makes pool care easy. Believe me, if you have to test and dose your pool every single day, it’s going...

The permanent system uses a copper ionizer to add copper to the water. There’s a good chance you could have enough copper left that it would cause staining once you start using the TFP method because the chlorine will oxidize the copper. There really isn’t easy or accurate way to measure...

As long as the daytime air temps are below 85°F the plaster should be fine for draining and refilling. Pools don’t float around here, the water table is way too far down. You can drain the pool, LIGHTLY power wash the surface (do NOT use a gas powered high pressure washer or you will regret...