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It’s not too bad of a DIY project just need a drill, shop vac and a bunch of spring clamps to temporarily hold the liner. Do it on a warm 80 plus sunny day. Plenty of YouTube videos on the tips and tricks.

Unless you used 90deg sweeps you won’t be able to pull anything once the trenches are filled

How warm is the water? I’ve had occasional wrinkle develop over winter that seem to work themselves out as the temperature increases

Use your net and pole to get all the heavy debris off the cover first. You can then set the pump closer to an accessible edge and use the net to press the tarp down and channel water to the pump. Don’t leave the pump on the tarp as your just pumping water that leaks through from underneath...

It will definitely help in final polishing and keeping things clear after a storm or pollen dump. I use 2 cups on 300lb sand filter sprinkled directly into basket provides a 1-2psi increase in filter pressure. If things are cloudy keep an eye on pressure backwash and reapply as needed. Big...

I thought I'd chime in as I bought 8 gallons with Julian date 17 125 the other day there were some much older bottles like 17 025. After adding the first bottle noticed the seal was compromised, second bottle was the same and a sniff test seemed like weak chlorine - this is the 10% pool...

Doodie in the pool! I wouldnt be be concerned with going to shock level. A little bump in FC if it makes you feel better. - - - Updated - - - If you adjusted pool math for 14.5% concentration and have current and target I wouldn't measure too much added risk with MA just add 1/3 slowly in...

It's really neat to see these very inexpensive methods work on oxidized iron. I built a bit more of an OCD version of the iron removal filter that can be opearated in both fill mode and side stream polishing...

She's telling you to avoid having to SLAM at all costs in the future by maintaining your FC/CYA relationship. Continue replacing the polyfill as it gathers the oxidized iron. Dont add any metal sequestrants until you've OCLT and CC numbers and the polyfill is no longer capturing precipitated iron

Wow Brian you've got some patience with a forum that sent your pool from milky blue to brown in a couple days! Anyways now you know there is extremely high iron in your fill water. It would be money well spent on a prefilter. The polyfill works really well on this level of iron there are...

You have a vinyl pool there is no reason to increase your CH. if your pool is in full sun all day running your CYA closer to 50 will help with the FC demand but all pools are different a jug of bleach every other day is fairly normal. Usually running pH on the lower end 7.2-4 will yield less...

I understand the complications with your pump and the vacuum switch cutout. Trying to throw some additional options before building an additional vacuum skid. Are your return lines 1.5"/2"? What size vacuum hose? Like stated before I had incredibly high suction after repairing a kink in PVC...

Before you connect the vacuum hose I'm assuming you fill it by placing in front of a return jet to ensure it is completely full? Try placing a stick under the skimvac directed towards the pool when installing the vacuum. I have to do this on mine as there is only one skimmer and my main drain...

It's likely a variability in your testing of the TA. on new chemicals follow the "wipe tip between each drop" directions when adding final developer. You will likely see a vortex of red forming if using the speedstir, allow it to dissipate before adding each additional drop

The tests relevant to your fill water will be pH, CH, and TA. The TDS you refer to is not "Salts" but total dissolved Solids.

The 3/4" version looks correct- again I can't tell from the picture posted if there is an additional 1/2" x 3/4" reducer bushing. You could add the bushing for ~$1 and save some money on a 1/2" valve vs 3/4"

You topped it off with city water this AM? There are several posters here who are having success using just Proteams Metal Magic without doing an AA treatment. It might be worth a try.

From what I understand the tool is only designed to work with a specific diameter sample tube that comes with the K2006 kit. if you just fill the sample vial and use a slight wrist flick action to adjust it down to 10 or 25 ml it's really easy

My pool is constructed the same way as what you are building. you have 2-3 options based on how far along you are in the construction process. 1. Set the joists proud/high the height of the bead track. 2. Cut a dado into the top of the sill plate the depth of the track 3. Attach the track as is...

Likely made by Watts based on the "W" The Lasco stamp is the manufacturer of the Tee fitting the 2"x3/4" is the reducer bushing installed in the tee. hard to tell if there is a 3/4"X1/2" reducer but here is a 1/2" version of that valve...

Do you have a foot valve in the main drain? They are similar to a check valve but only open and allow ground water into the pool if the surrounding water table is high. Ive dealt with a couple of them on gunite pools when draining for re painting

Pool looks beautiful Carlos. Brace for these storms coming through- a ton of stuff just blew in mine. plan on grabbing some MM to give a test on mine

You need to unsequester/oxidize the iron immediately before sending through the greensand and it has to be a controlled slower flow rate. It will also require that the sand be regenerated with potassium permanganate.

What your wanting to try can be done. I built one last summer that uses time contact towers an air inductor and series filtration. With this process it requires time contact for oxidation to occur then filtration. unlikely the greensand will filter sequestered iron, it will need to be oxidized...

I can't give any insight on the salt clouding, but curious if this is the first time using a claimed UHP salt? read an article recently that discussed staining in SWG pools and the possible correlation to 99% pure salt IIRC it gave an example of a 23kgal pool needing 580lbs of salt with 1%...

Thanks for the additional insight. I knew about the salt accumulation but have never tested as I'm non SWG pool and have never tested for it but may grab some strips to see where I'm at. I figured that much MA- Hcl and that gallon of chlorine last night might have pushed me over the salt edge.

I added half of everything last night 7 borax boxes and 2gal MA. Funny thing was after adding I noticed the light refraction changed and the pool looked sparkly. My GF was sitting poolside and we apparently were thinking the same thing as she commented on it as well. The test strips showed...

I posed the same question yesterday prior to adding MA and borax. Depending upon what your current TA is and how stable it is for you is what determines if you should lower it. You can lower TA after borates but it becomes harder

Do whatever you can to try and scoop around the bottom getting all the heavy organic matter out on the front end will save you some bleach. After you think you've scooped everything you can, vacuum the bottom even after if blindly it will help get the remaining heavy organics out. update your...

You can sprinkle it over the surface of pool with your pump circulating after an hour retest and adjust pH. I believe there is a rule of thumb around here to wait 30mins after adding anything before swimming