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Uggg... OK I got the new temp sensor in and I replaced it it's about 1 degree off but it's stable. However now my air flow sensor is acting up it will work for about half an hour and then I'll get a service light come on, with the afs light on the back of the board. If I shut it off and...

Amazon to see if that fixes my problem if I can at least get a stable reading I feel like I can move forward with that. Do you find a big difference between Amazon parts and OEM

Thanks for all your help. I connected it the same way, the male portion of the connector with wire with the resistor in between the alligator clips.

So I'm not sure if it's even a valid test. But I did pull off the wires off my temp probe and set my multi meter to ohms and just placed the multimeter on the tabs and my reading of ohms was all over the place. 6.5 to 6.9 it was bouncing all over the place. I'm gonna order a new probe on...

Okay so I decided to pull the temp probe out and take a look at it it seemed a little gummy a little grimed up but not all that bad I went ahead and cleaned it off and sanded the Connectors of any crime that might have been on him however upon installing it I'm still getting the same thing.

As far as I know the board is not a genuine board. However when I did jump my wires with my 10K resistor I did get a reading of 76.

Okay so I got a new board, but unfortunately it is still about 5 degrees or maybe 6 degrees off, but it bounces about 4 degrees either way. I did replace my air flow sensor at the same time and the old board is still about 12 degrees off but it's steady. However the new board is bright and...

Thanks for your help I'm gonna order a new board today.

Unfortunately I did not replace the board II only replaced the touchpad on top of the board. Had I known the board might be suspect I would've changed that out at the same time.

OK so the second time I tested it was from the wires going to my probe or I should say the wires on the back of the probe and I got a reading of 65 degrees.

You might be right about that I was trying it from the back of the board jumping the two connectors with my resistor let me make up a proper connection and I'll do it from the wires that go to the thermistor and not the board. Also I got in the new control board and it's working as it should...

Okay so I put a 10K resistor in between the two pins on the back of the board for the thermistor. I got a reading of one degree on the circuit board display.

Thanks for the info, I only have 1K resistor on hand so I'm gonna have to order one. I'm guessing the two brown wires is where I need to place the resistor?

I'm starting to think the main board is bad. The temp is displaying 86 when the water is 101. Is the temp displayed on the board or the pad? It looks like the pad is just a window but I have not taken anything apart to see what's going on.

OK so I went and ordered a new pad from Amazon seems like it should work it's a little bit different. Anybody have any experience with these aftermarket parts possibly? Amazon.com

OK so after troubleshooting some more I found where the firemen switch was I unplugged it and re-plugged it in and made sure all the connections were solid. However when I tried to fire up the heater the blower motor was not spinning and I had to awaken it with a couple hammer taps and it...

Ok so here's a picture of my board the yellow connector that's hanging off the side is what I had to unplug so it would lose power but it'll still allow power to the rest of my system.

The heater is not connected to an automated system it's stand alone, just hates the the pool or the spa depending on water flow. My system is a little bit different it. I'll try to take some photos and upload them so you all can see what what I'm dealing with.

I have a Pentair pool heater that is acting goofy. It will not turn on or turn off and will not respond to any commands I'm currently having to turn it off by unplugging the motherboard from the power supply to separate it from everything else. Has anybody else seen this situation? I'm guessing...

I'm having a hard time uploading photos of the project if anybody is trying to tackle this and they want help, just go ahead and email me or message me on this or on this website and I'll get back to you. Mentally it's very easy but physically it's a very hard job as I had to Jack hammer out...

Okay so it's finally done. I completed the project, it took me a long time but it's now done. I will update some pictures, so other people that are going to tackle this project and see how it was done. Not sure if I did it right but it's all working as of now.

Well I got to do another hour and a half before I had to call it the day and hear is where I ended up. I guess I should scour a line on the inside of the skimmer. So the fiberglass breaks off in a clean way?

I would have thought the same, but we are in a very sandy soil. I think when they did the pressure testing it opened up the hole a bit or more likely blew out some dirt that was plugging the hole. Water loss increased after the pressure testing.

They tested all the lines except the main drain line, so I hope I'm good for awhile with those lines. The water level has stop going down, now that it is below the skimmer leak.

Another hour and a half of work and I'm starting to get the pipes exposed.