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Clean the pool first, throw the strips in the garbage second, buy a real test kit third.

One leg of the 240 and a neutral wire if one exists.

I just last week paid $7200 for a Latham 27 mil liner replacement for my 16000 gallon pool. $10k doesn't seem out of line for your larger pool.

It's a set time built on to the controller. Press and hold the selection button to reset it.

Sure, I can run it, but the chlorine will just disappear due to sunlight. Seems like a waste of the swg run time. And since the water is still cold, no real need.

The powder salt dissolved way faster than the rock salt. I just added 8 bags of powdered salt to my pool and it was totally dissolved in a few minutes using the pile and brush method. The rock salt would still be there a day later. I also run my robot to stir everything up. I can't run my...

Very timely topic .. Just replaced my white liner with a blue liner, both Latham. The white background version was 13 years old and you can see very little to no patterns remain. I would stick to the blue version. There was no leaks or anything with the old liner, it was starting to pull out...

Buy the cheapest one you can...they all fail. Chlorine and UV are tough to live in.

TDS is not the same as salt. The "T" means TOTAL, so everything dissolved in your pool affects that number, not just salt.

I have a paraplegic friend that says yes. Don't head first dive...ever.

That's not done, it turns a Barbie pink and then won't get any more pink.

Public pools follow a different set of rules than homeowner pools.

If you swim, the salt will get thoroughly mixed quickly, turn on the swg quicker than 24 hours.

Why would that be in your pool to begin with?

Capacitor burned out most likely.

I don't think anyone can answer your question without knowing what your local code requires. Mine requires 5' height with no more than 2 1/2" openings. Wood, mesh or chain link ..it doesn't matter as long as it meets that spec.

You're in Jersey...you could have long cold spells and a little water could ruin a $700 SWG. I'd take it out and cover the pipes so nothing can get in.

You can get split nuts...no plumbing changes required.

Nothing you have been told is correct. Salt water pools DO NOT CORRODE things any more than the water itself corrodes things. The level of chlorine is set by your CYA level, there is no " set it at .5" in proper pool care.

It's really not the color (clear) that is the endpoint, it's the drop that makes a color change that doesn't change any more. Even if that color is slightly pinkish or slightly whitish.

I quit reading at "local pool store specialists" Local pool store extortionists would be a better title

That's a giant load of Crud. Water causes rust, so is the warranty void of you put water on your pool?

Pool chemistry is an exact science, without exact numbers, we simply can't, in good conscience, give you advice. What if your chlorine is 20...which is over 5 and we tell you it's fine and you get chemical burns. Real data by a known quality test kit is the best and safest thing you can do.

Chlorine is much more corrosive than salt.

Why would you add salt? Do you have a SWCG? What was the salt level?

I suggest you quit going to a pool store and read lots of posts on this website. Oh, and I suggest one of the recommended test kits discussed on this website.

Yes, that is correct, 15ml to the top of the sticker.

No algae in the world can survive 800 ppm chlorine.