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I wonder if a command strip/hook would hold the rope in place for you?

If you can find somebody with a locator (gas utility, irrigation tech, etc), you can hopefully push a metal fish tape down the skimmer line and they can hook onto that and follow it back to where it dead ends, and then you’ll be close to where the equip pad was.

As per the manual, “After the water pressure switch is activated there is a one minute temperature sensing delay then if there is a call for heat or cool the fan will turn on and there will be an additional 5 minute delay for the compressor to start. Be sure that there is water in the pool and...

Odds are, pull it back up into the track. Hard on fingers but can be done. They will likely put a piece of liner lock in there too to help it stay...

Seems to me all that you need is a hose barb out the side of the bottom of the tank, with a piece of tubing up the side of the tank with the other end left open. The level in the tube should follow the level in the tank.

I use the air compressor for the small ones, I use the shop vac for the big ones.

2" to split, then valves, then reduce down... you'll lose flow if you reduce down to 3/4" before the splits and valves

I personally just use a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer and beat it out. Sometimes I can beat it unscrewed, sometimes I just have to break it out. Gotta be careful not to slip and damage the pool either way though.

Looks to me like you just need to put a new illuminator there to get going again assuming the electrical is good.

Pool company must've been more familiar with automotive wiring than house wiring (red is pos and black is neg in auto wiring)

Just my opinions from my experience... if the liner stays in without the linerlock, then you probably don't need it anyway. It's not the end of the world if the liner comes out of the track in places, just work it back in with your hands (no tools). Shorter lengths of linerlock vs 1 continuous...

They make this fitting but it's kinda 'spensive... no experience with it either... Beluga Solar Heater - PoolSupplies.com

Gas valve has a solenoid internal to it... it's what makes it open and close...

Line is incoming power, load is the load, or the pump(s) in this case.. Im assuming you're wanting to run everything off of 1 breaker. pull your white wires off of 3 and 5, and tie them together with the white wire on 1. You may have to create a pigtail and use a wire nut to do that. Then you...

One other thing to mention about the reg being right close to the heater. It could be that you have a 2lb gas system at your house, and this reg steps that 2# down to the low pressure the heater wants. This setup allows for smaller gas pipes between your meter and the heater. If this is the...

You might call your water dept and see what they say. Ours only charges sewer fees based on Jan-march for houses but everyone else is directly tied like yours is. However, if it's directly tied, i can call in and say "I'm filling the pool and it holds xx,000 gallons" and they'll not count that...

It looks like a wad of duct tape or something wrapped in duct tape.

Raypak has a high efficiency condensing heater as well.. I think it's in their commercial line.

Have you tried just screwing a plug into the bottom of the skimmer and plugging the line and see if the leak stops? Could also have a cracked skimmer as well

Just a thought for those that don't want to watch the pool area directly.... why not have it watch the gates to the area? You'll see who's coming and going but not have an eye on the pool itself...

With a leaking heat exchanger and busted up panels like that, you're probably best off just getting a new heater...

Could you put the waterfall pump on a timer and run it for say 5 minutes twice a day?

Have you done a bucket test to confirm that it's not just from evaporation? Can also shut the pump off for a day and see if the loss slows down.

hose bib shouldn't leak in that situation.. It's probably going to need replaced, but you might check with a plumber to see if it's repairable.

you may want to consider using something like this as the ultimate fill control with the hose timer to be a backup in case the autofill valve sticks open... M-3000 Pool Sentry Automatic Water Leveler - PoolSupplies.com

That last pic looks like a blob of solder on the liner which is now rusting. Not sure how it would get there though...

The most you're gonna get out of 1" pipe at 45' plus fittings at household pressure is around 200k btu max without a lot of pressure drop....

Just assuming a 20,000 gal pool, if I have a cc of 2 (just hypothetically), I would need 61oz of hydrogen peroxide to neutralize the chlorine? (I'm assuming 0 FC right now). I'm also assuming a cya level north off 100... Would that be of issue for the conversion?

I have not.... I live an hour away from the pool and only open and close it for them... How would you go about neutralizing all the chlorine... I thought once it's used its gone... Only thing I can think of is using a non-chlorine oxidizer to get rid of any of the cc that may be present...

I have an individual that is needing to convert their pool from chlorine to bioguard softswim for medical reasons... I am not having much luck in researching this conversion as most people go the other way... Questions are... Do we need to completely drain the pool and refill for conversion and...