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It was about 50, and I considered that. But it displayed the version info correctly at startup prior to changing to the black squares.

After a while, the display finally came on. I will keep an eye on it and see if it does it again.

Yes to all, pump is running. I just started holding down buttons and the heater fired up and is running now. The display is still all boxes though. I watched as I powered it up again and the version info was displayed properly briefly before it went into this state, so I know the display...

Just put this heater in new last season and tried to start it up today for the first time, only to have the display come on, but all the fields are just black squares. Has anyone ever experienced this or have any idea what to do about it before I call a service tech? Thanks!

Mine is still kicking.

In my experience, rumbling and gas-fired devices is a bad combination. He definitely needs to have it examined.

Yes, Hayward makes a number of them that will work. They are easily installed yourself. There are a number of threads here with pics to show you how to do it. Just search "Hayward Dyna-skim". Some people choose to split the butterfly gasket in half to avoid needing to drain any water. I chose...

If it lasts like this more than 4 hours, call your doctor. Sorry, hopefully you get some real advice soon.

There is no reason to be concerned with adjusting TA. Just keep pH in range and forget about TA.

With my CYA at 80, I've had FC anywhere from 7 to 32 this season. You couldn't tell any difference.

Do you turn the valve to Rinse and wait until the water runs clear before turning back to Filter? If not, all the suspended debris inside the filter is getting sent back to the pool.

I found my pool stays cleaner if I angle my returns slightly upward so that they just roil the surface. I used to keep them pointed downward, the idea being that this would help circulate the water better overall. But I found that debris on the surface would accumulate in certain areas...

Sorry, but test strips are totally unreliable and we can't make any recommendations based upon them. There are 2 test kits that contain all the tests necessary to follow the TFP method: With your time constraint, you probably can't get one of these online in time to help you. Some pool...

I suspect you have some dead zones in your pool that are not getting adequate circulation with the pump on low speed. Algae may be able to grow in these areas.

Welcome from a fellow Sooner!

A pool in good shape typically won't help to sell a home. Many people just don't want to deal with a pool and won't even look at a house that has one. So if your intent is to sell this property, considering the shape that pool is in, I think your best bet is to probably fill it in.

Can you remove the eyeballs altogether? This would reduce the pressure and quiet them down a bit. Or you could close them off with winterizing plugs...

Jinx!

No. As long as you maintain your FC at the appropriate level for your CYA, there is no need to shock on any regular basis. The only time we shock is when algae has been detected and then it is not a one time process. It is done as part of a SLAM, which stands for Shock Level And Maintain.

Holy necropost Batman!

CYA is acidic and once your pump shuts off, all that acid concentrated in the basket can damage the pump. Granted CYA isn't nearly as acidic as chlorine pucks, which should *never* be placed directly in the skimmer or basket. But it's not worth the risk with CYA either.

It's the cell. Back when I had an Intex pool, I had to replace the cell every other year or so. You've gotten about 2 seasons out of yours, and that's about all they're good for. You used to be able to get a replacement cell from Intex for $75. But it's been 5 years since I had one, so IDK if...

It's not uncommon these days to see pools that only have a skimmer and no main drain at the bottom of the pool. They can help keep the pool floor cleaner, but most people have a robot these days anyway. That may be why some builders don't consider a drain as necessary as they used to.

It sounds a lot scarier than it really is.

Replace the over the wall skimmer with a thru the wall Hayward Dyna-skim. They do a much better job and consequently there won't be as much debris on the bottom for a robot to have to clean up. This is seriously the best upgrade I ever did when I had my Intex pool.

After completing a SLAM earlier this year to open my pool, my FC was 32 and my CYA was 80. Now I maintain FC at 7 with CYA still at 80. The water was indistinguishable. No smell, harshness, dry skin or faded suits either time. I fear your goal of maintaining low FC is causing you needless...

Passing an OCLT is one of the 3 test conditions required to complete a SLAM. If you didn't do that, you need to resume the SLAM.

Muriatic acid. But there's no real need to chase a particular number for TA. Just use muriatic acid to maintain your pH in the 7.2 - 7.8 range and TA will drop on its own over time.