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Foam is often caused by: * Washing machine detergent residue on bathing suits * Residue from shampoo, body wash, deodorants, lotions, moisturizers, sunscreen, other such personal care products Foam is reduced by: * Manually scooping out the foam. * Ensure all bathing suits that enter the water...

You haven't seen a Bullfrog EOS3 ozonator work then. Each hour with this EOS3 on will drastically drop FC, this thing is powerful. 8 hours will drop 10ppm FC to the 0-2 range. I have custom ozone runtimes based on bather load / lack of any bathers. This is not correct. Regardless of the...

Step 3 on page 14 of your Bullfrog A-series manual states "Never fill the spa with soft water unless an appropriate mineral supplement is immediately added" Now you can opine about manufacturers trying to convince you to buy their products, but you should also consider if their statement has...

"Adding calcium chloride in the hours before or after treating with soda ash (sodium carbonate) or baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) will result in cloudy water. Never mix sodium bicarb or soda ash with calcium chloride. These chemicals are incompatible because they will bind together and cloud...

My municipal city water pH is over 9 out of the tap, by design. Several North American municipal water utilities adjust water pH upwards, to the 8.8 - 9.4 range, in order to reduce lead, copper, and other metals that can corrode/dissolve into drinking water. Such municipalities include: San...

Just in case you have to diagnose the SWCG sometime in the future, be aware that A1 isn't always on - it is intended to run the circulation pump and ozonator (one or the other, and even both via the optional PP1 splitter) in accordance with the spa pack's programming logic. That logic usually...

@Bosley Open the YE box, on the inside of the cover is the electrical diagram. Your YE board should have a 120V Direct output at A0 (top right). Pin1 (black) should be live, Pin4 (green) should be ground. If the 4-pin A0 output connector doesn't exist, the equivalent should be: P1 = P32 (black /...

I buy the 3.6L plastic jugs of 10.8% pool chlorine, and when I need to add chlorine, I pour from the plastic jug into a glass pasta sauce jar with mL/oz markings, which are accurate enough for my needs, then pour from the glass jar into the tub. No issues with splashing or drips. Always store...

Buy a 9kg tub of Bioguard Optimizer Plus, which is 100% boric acid and pH neutral. The old Bioguard Optimizer (without the Plus) is tetraborate pentahydrate, which drastically increases pH and usually you need to counteract with acid. If you ever need to increase pH, 20 Mule Team Borax is great...

My only suggestion is to get a kitchen scale with 0.1g precision, and measure the mass of your dichlor, instead of going by volume (tablespoons). As many professional bakers know, each tablespoon/teaspoon/cup you scoop of granulated/powdered ingredients can be significantly different in mass...

With a TA between 80 and 120, and 0 borates, I found that pH rose very fast, from 7.6 to 8+ with 2-4hrs of having the jets on. To prevent pH from rising (caused by jets aerating the water): 1) keep TA as low as possible, my tap water is below 30. 2) never add any TA increaser aka sodium...

The bigger Bullfrog spas (like my A7) come with 2 big coreless filters. These are very effective at filtration especially if you do a thorough filter cleaning every 2-3 weeks, meaning use a Filter Flosser to thoroughly blast contaminants off each pleat, then soak the filters in Oxyclean/Cascade...

Your CH is quite high - the cloudiness could just be calcium. Reduce your CH to the 150-180 range, which is higher than the minimum for the purpose of reducing foaming. If you don't have foaming issues, use the lowest recommended number to rule out precipitated calcium. High CH can accelerate...

My skin dries out at 5ppm FC too, so I would bet that's 95% of the problem. I like 2ppm FC for a 1-person soak, 3ppm for 2 people, and 5ppm if there's 3 or more. Instead of being the first to jump into 5ppm FC water, wait until a few other people have soaked in it with jets on for 10-20 minutes...

The OxyClean MSDS that I saw showed it was ~50% sodium percarbonate, which is roughly the same % in Eco One and Spa Marvel. Therefore, I would start with the same dilution ratios that they recommend, which is ~2 capfuls (of their bottle caps, both about same size) per ~10L bucket. I would...

Your friend likely entered into a contract with the hot tub dealer, and the terms of that contract likely specify details about the delivery, such as when/how/where/etc. If the terms of the contract are broken, then the contract is void. I would suggest getting the deposit back and then buying a...

I looked into the chemical compositions of several soak-in-a-bucket filter cleaners. See my post at Filter cleaning chemicals - SDS reviews, DIY guidance As for filter sprayer attachments, the Mikise Filter Flosser and PowerPic Reach are legit well-built all-metal tools that are very powerful...

By understanding why that manufacturer wrote that in the owner's manual and by understanding the mechanisms of action of non-chlorine shock (usually MPS), you can safely ignore the requirement to use MPS. That manufacturer may not be aware of, or doesn't care about, people with skin...

Filter manufacturers recommend a chemical soak every 60 days, and a spray with hose (I use the various Mikise Filter Cleaner hose tools) every 30 days, both under regular/occasional use. With heavy use and/or high bather loads, you'll have to do those more frequently. The primary reason for...

Pro-tip: tie your filters to something heavy so they stay submerged and have 0% chance of reaching the surface. The released gunk stays on the water surface, so if your filters float even a tiny bit above the water surface, they'll catch the gunk. That gunk is near impossible to remove from the...

If your CYA truly is 100 or above, you need to purge and completely drain. Even at >50 CYA I'd say purge and drain. At 100+ CYA, your chlorine is almost totally ineffective at sanitizing, thereby allowing all kinds of bacteria and biofilms to grow inside your plumbing, jets, etc. Combine a high...

I was recommended by a forum admin to start a new thread instead of consolidating information into one place under an old thread that I had been contributing to. I guess at some point, some threads can get pretty long and difficult to read if there are lots of little posts in between the more...

To eliminate the itchiness, you need to: 1) Purge with Ahhsome multiple times until no more gunk is released, and don't forget to keep your FC at 10-20ppm during this purge. During the drain, use your garden hose to blast all the jets and drain ports clean of both gunk and of Ahhsome (and open...

I have the A7 with 3 pumps (2 dual-speed main pumps + one-speed circulation pump). The circulation pump is MUCH quieter than either main pump on low speed, and the circ pump handles the heating, ozone, and filtering cycles without engaging either of the main pumps (aside from filtering, where it...

Thanks @ckendalls for that BAC research (Benzalkonium Chlorides: Uses, Regulatory Status, and Microbial Resistance), which shows that no BAC level has been proven to be "negligible". While it is correct that BACs have been in widespread use for decades, in thousands of products, that doesn't...

Best bulk deal I could find in Canada is CAD$10/kg, I got a 9 kg pail of Bioguard Optimizer Plus on Amazon for $90. The "Plus" formulation has been 100% boric acid in every year's MSDS sheets going back to at least 2016 through 2021, and is considered pH-neutral. Not to be confused with Bioguard...

The metrics I use to make sure my spa is being properly sanitized are Free Chlorine and Chlorine Demand (CD), noting that the lower your CYA level and the lower your pH, the more effective the chlorine is at sanitization. On a new fill, I add enough dichlor (3 x 20g dichlor tabs over a few...

Go to PoolMath enter in your volume of water at the top, all the other parameters if you have them, then go to the bottom and enter in how much dichlor you added. For example, for a 1643L/434gal hot tub, you would need to add 80g of dichlor to hit 25ppm CYA, and 80g dichlor gives you 27ppm FC...

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=dbp+pool&filter=datesearch.y_5 DBPs are the industry term for "disinfection byproducts". Search PubMed for publications relating to DBPs in pools. All kinds of reading material, filter by most recent 5 year, then check references to older publications that...