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Dumb question. When we built the pool, we already had a robot so they never showed us how to use the suction cleaner. What do the valve positions need to be in order to use it? Is there a way I can prevent what it picks up from entering the filters? I've gotten used to not having to clean those...

Looks like my motor went out on my Prowler 920 after 3 years. It's only running for a few minutes before it stops and subsequent attempts to start it has no effect (the light on the robot won't even turn on). I'd prefer not to drop $650+ on a new motor and would rather go another route if...

Perfect, thanks!

Finally checked the robot I have. It's the Pentair Warrior SI. Should I be changing where I'm drawing water from based on those valve positions?

I can't remember the exact model, but it's a private labeled dolphin that came highly recommended from here. Glad to see I'm at least heading in the right direction. The good news is, it's three off season.

We never purchased a suction side cleaner, but I do believe it is plumbed for one. I'm assuming that's what the valve labeled "cleaner" is for. We've exclusively used a robot since day 1 and never touched those valves after the pool install. I'm happy to purchase a manual cleaner to do the job...

Recently I drove a T-Post right through one of my returns which has led to a multi-day repair in between my normal job. We've recently had a ton of rain and while the pipe was open, some of the muddy water found its way into the pool. The repairs are complete and now I need to get my pool back...

I found out that even though I turned off the individual circuits from freeze protection, the panel still indicated it and overrode it. I temporarily raised the temperature sensor to 50F and were back to normal. Now to get the water clean again!

I've had a horrible string of luck so far this year with plumbing issues and Saturday was probably the worst luck so far. In an effort to prevent a tree from falling over, I drove a T-Post right through on of my 2" return lines for the pool. Thankfully it hit right at a 90, so repair was fairly...

Good news, got everything fixed yesterday. It was an issue with the flow switch. The metal strip had sheared and the replacement they installed sheared as well. So, they just installed a whole new cell for me!

Awesome, I'll run that test. The pool is brand new, we still haven't finished all of the punch list items to close the pool out. I will report back with what I find!

Pressure on the gauge is hovering around 10 psi. There's plenty of flow from the returns and the skimmers are all clear and working as intended. I'm even adding CYA via the pantyhose method currently.

That begs the next question, how do I fix that? The pumps are running, the valve is in auto. What should I check for flow? I'm assuming that means something is impeding the flow?

We had a power surge yesterday and it appears it may have impacted my SWG. I received an alert that it had lost communications, however I can still set the output from my phone and see the corresponding change on the cell. The cell shows a red light for flow and the cell indicator lights flash...

Updated levels: FC: 7 (added 1 gallon of 11%) TA: 120 pH: 7.2 (currently aerating to help bring pH back up slowly) It's still cloudy and the chlorine is still reacting with something in the water. Every time I add, there's a cloud that forms then dissipates. At least I can safely get in the...

It's a Christmas miracle. I finally got a break in between meetings and added the dosage per the calculator to bring my pH to 7.4. As it was circulating around, the pool began to instantly clear up. I could see it changing right before my eyes! I can now see the bottom of the deep end which is a...

Thank you for your patience and help! I'll get the hang of this!

Yeah, the 8.2 was immediately after it was mixed. Should I continue to SLAM and add some acid to help bring the pH down as well?

New readings: FC: 12 pH: 8.2 TA: 150 CH: 300 CYA: 40 CSI: 0.87 For pH, I thought I read that test was null and void while undergoing SLAM? Should I rely on that reading and dump in some acid?

Sounds good. I'm going to run a full battery of tests after my morning meetings. On a whim, I decided to clean the cartridge filters. I could tell it had never been opened as the shrink wrap was still on the band. There was a few shovel fulls of clay, mud, and plaster dust sitting in the bottom...

So, I lost 4.5 ppm last night. Time to panic yet? Water is still very cloudy and every add of chlorine results in another cloud.

At first, KemTech with 10 % Sodium Hypochlorite. Was running low on that, and the pictures taken above were with liquid chlorine from Pinch a penny. Edit: turns out the clouds I was seeing from the brushing are the obscene amounts of dust from all of the construction around me. It's settling at...

Update: Now when adding chlorine we're seeing a cloud when adding chlorine. I'm not sure if this something to be worried about or not. I can also see clouds of something as I'm brushing the plaster.

Perfect, I'll ignore the conditioner comment and proceed as usual. I'll continue the slam today and run the OCLT this evening to see how we're holding up.

Quick question. The folks that did my startup indicated that they did add some form of conditioner is a granular form to my pool when they came out on Monday. He indicated that it may not have dissolved all the way and there's a chance there's some remaining in the filter. Could this be causing...