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So after running my t-15 at a t-9 for a week, I was getting a 3900 reading. This seemed high so I changed it back to a t-15 and I’m at 3200. Before the initial switch it was reading as low as 2100. It almost seems like changing it reset something. I’ll continue monitoring.

On the aquarite unit and my OmniLogic app

I changed it on the Aquarite and after 30 mins or so the PPM went up another 400.

Here is what I have…

My T-15 cell is nearing it's end of life, and to maximize it's potential, I tried switching the cell type from T-15 to T-9 on my OmniLogic controller. When I did this, the PPM increased by about 400, however on the Aquarite diagnostic display it's still showing T-15. I'm not sure if I should...

Thanks for that. So once I start seeing 2300, I should just change to T-9 on the controller? If I understand everything correctly, this will produce the same amount of salt and I shouldn't need to change my output %'s, it will just read at a higher level to allow for continued generation...

What reading do I need to get from the system for it to still be producing chlorine? Is it producing as long as the light for low salt is blinking and not solid?

I have a Hayward aquarite T-15 salt cell and when I opened the pool (~20k gallons) the cell was reading 1900. I put in 6 bags of salt and after about 24 hours it read 2800 (I've also seen this number drop depending the time of day) This seemed a little low to me as I was expecting more around...

I backwashed and when I turned on the heat via OmniLogic, the display on the heatpump changed from flo to bo, but the HP/fan never came on. I then turned off the bo mode, set the pool temp to the lowest it would go, set the spa to 104 and left it in spa mode. I turned the heat on via OmniLogic...

Last year I had a similar issue with the Flo error until I backwashed a couple times. Although I don’t think it was ever in bo mode. Unless that resets after power has been cut over the winter.

I called them and they were no help. I did find this manual later and have put it in the bo mode, but am getting the Flo error on 3400. I’m going to backwash tomorrow or the next day and see if that helps.

I am trying to get my Hayward Heat Pump model HP21254T into Remote Operation Mode so I can control it with my OmniLogic system. This was working prior to this year, but I think some buttons were pressed on the Heat Pump which took it out of the remote operation mode. I've been following page...

My Hayward Heatpump shows a temperature about 7 degrees lower than what the OmniLogic app/pad show. When I measure the actual water temp, it falls right in between the two. Does anyone know what might be going on? Omni controls the heat pump just fine.

I have a Hayward S244t sand filter and I need to replace my pressure gauge (needle stuck behind the pin). Everything I've read/watched says that you have to release the air prior to taking off the gauge, and then after turning the pump back on wait till water shoots out and then close the...

I actually did this last night. Turned off my SWG overnight and it looked like the FC went down about 1, maybe 2 (was 3-4 originally). This morning I dumped a gallon of liquid chlorine in and the FC is over 10. I also turned the SWG back on. Should I do this again tonight?

I opened my pool 2 weeks ago and over the last week I’ve been getting brown spots on the floor of the pool. It also tends to collect at the seams of the vinyl liner. I will brush it and it dissolves instantly, but just keeps coming back sometimes an hour or two after brushing. My pool water...

Clearance wise I think I’m ok. I’m not so worried about the blower if I’m not running it at night.

Hayward H250

This will be my 3rd season with the pool. The past two years, I’ve pretty much just kept the heat pump off during the summer and swam. I’ve tried turning it on during the day some but I won’t keep it on at night because it’s outside my bedroom, which I think defeats the purpose. I’m thinking...

My price of natural gas per ccf is 0.71902. My price of electric per kwh .0447 (although I think this may be doubling soon). If I'm understanding everything correctly, the price to run a 250k BTU gas heater for an hour would be about $1.80, this seems pretty cheap but I don't know how to...

Has anyone ever switched from a heat pump to a natural gas heater and been disappointed with the switch? My pool builder is replacing my Hayward Heat Pump after they messed up the winterization, and I'm thinking of switching to the H250 Natural Gas heater. I'm in Southeastern Ohio area, and...

I have a Hayward VS Omni automation system with Salt and was wondering if there is a pH monitor/chemical dispenser compatible with it. It looks like the Sense and Dispense systems may only work with the more involved Omni systems.

I'm in Ohio, and this is my first year with my new pool. Right now temps are getting into the low 40's overnight, but are hitting the mid 70's some days, including this weekend. I haven't been turning my heatpump on when I'm not planning on swimming, but this weekend looks good. I was going...

The SWCG is above the pool water level. I had the suction/return lines closed anyway. So it's just the sand filter draining?

My Salt cell is oriented horizontally pretty much on the ground. When I removed it (with the pump off and ball valves in front of the pump off) it was draining for 20-30 minutes. I was starting to get worried so I put the salt cell back on. Is this normal? Is there something i can buy to cap...

They didn't make it out to replace. Hoping they'll be here today.