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Just a heads up, I think there are pictures somewhere on the forum of someone’s soft tub temp sensor...

I didn't say they magically work for spas. I said in the context of spas. You kinda made my "quick check" point by saying there are far more "swings" possible in spas... but I won't argue. To the OP: Apparently test strips are evil evil evil, don't tell you anything, ever, even if you have a...

I can understand the motto "throw out the test strips" when it comes to pools. Hot tubs (this is the spa forum after all) I find test strips can be handy for exactly what the OP is using for: occasionally quickly making sure FC hasn't crashed to 0. OP: I strongly suspect the different little...

Yes I’m a year in with no issues, working great

Chlorine is chlorine, calcium is calcium, muriatic acid is muriatic acid, etc... Go ahead and use pool products as long as you know exactly what it is! Usually the "Spa" version is just smaller packaging and 10 times the price... :)

Ok thanks very much. Sounds like you’re saying the difference from spa to pool is the lack of accumulation of chemicals resulting from the evaporation/addition process with a pool. Since it’s the tfp way, what are the numbers on this? Is there an accepted concentration of sulfates below which...

I’ve resurrected a few old motors that wouldn’t turn... couple of raps with a hammer... if you haven’t tried that yet...

How does regular draining help, if I dump in all the dry acid right after filling to reduce TA to 60 or so from 250? (Per the method of dropping pH to 7.0 then aerating, repeat etc)

Hi all, I've searched the "Is dry acid ok in spa?" question posed. It seems like the regular advice is avoid dry acid due to the resulting sulphates in the water being harsh on metals and potential for calcium sulphate scale building... But then I came across an adamant stance in this post that...

Bromine is about to be banned in Canada. I believe it’s been linked to fertility issues :oops:

There are standard load tables available, online even. You need to plug in beam and joist sizes and spans. They usually reference psf (pounds per square foot), which you can calculate for your tub to determine the requirement. Hard to tell what size your supports are in the pics. If you...

In winter I just ran an extension cord into the spa motor housing for mine, was fine. Plugs into a gfci ?

On the other hand, a tub is way smaller so if things go south you simply drain and start fresh, easy peasy. Once my tub is balanced, things stay pretty rock solid. Low volume means very low cost of chems to get there. It does take a bit of time to get to know what “balanced” is with your fill...

Ya I bet you need to drop your TA juuust a bit more... they say to be careful mich below 50

Upon a fresh fill my spa pH will drift up, faster with aeration (jets) on, and require adjustment at first as well. My fill water is TA ~150. I use the acid demand test and MA to drop ph to ~7.2. Takes a number of times, and each time TA drops a bit. Once my TA gets down to 50-60, my PH settles...

In summer time my tub can run a degree or two, sometimes more, over the set temp. I suspect just from the sun and hot ambient temps. I hear you that you’re describing a pump that won’t shut off tho, even though usually it does. Just wanted to let you know

There are a few places near me in London that carry ahhsome including the jacuzzi store. Last I bought it it was $50. Crazy but should do my tub a few times. You’ll get the hang of the water balancing. Do a search on ozonators in spas to help understand the sanitizing role and the effect they...

Good idea, boost earlier if you know you're in for a while. The boost is great and really seems to do the trick. In fact, since getting the Chlormaker our water has been perfect with no issues. Maybe I'm unnecessarily worried about FC going to 0 shortly while the boost catches up after a longer...

Thanks folks, I do open the cover to air it out occasionally to burn off CCs but not quite three times a week. We’re in trees too so sunlight is scarce. There is a window of sun at high noon for an hour or two if I catch it. Our use is slightly lighter than yours Jim. It sounds like you’re...

Thanks--appreciate the input. The reason I'm asking (should have said so first) is that when I run the unit at the setting that keeps it at 2.5-3ppm FC (which we prefer), after a longer soak the FC is sometimes completely used up. It does the trick for us usually but after longer soaks or with...

Hi all, I've been using the "Chlormaker" SWCG for a couple of months now and it's been awesome. Absolutely no issues. With my size spa--smallish at 285 g--"setting 3" has been rock steady at 2.5-3 ppm FC; and "setting 4" puts it always at 4-5ppm. My CYA is 30, as calculated by dichlor...

I believe you are on the right track. It's normal for pH to rise when your TA is higher (I think due to off-gassing of CO2). Until my TA gets down to around 60 my pH will rise with aeration. Edit: yep, you found it :)

Our Chlormaker runs for 30 mins every 3 hour cycle--on level 4. If we "boost" it it produces for 3hrs. Our spa at 285 gal is smaller than yours. I am absolutely loving not having to splash in bleach after use etc. Went with the Chlormaker due to cost, over 150 cheaper than Smarterspa (at...

Thanks for following up :) Same here--my Chlormaker has been great, keeping steady level of FC (2-2.5) for our usage, completely hands off, save for pressing the boost button if we are in for a longer period. If it's just one person, or the two of us for a quick soak, we don't even use the...

I am going to chime in and watch this one. I too have been told and have read many conflicting things about calcium hardness and total hardness. Including the post above which references the TFP "Recommended Levels" which are for pools and make no mention of acrylic spas or hot water. (Time to...

How has it been going with your Smarterspa SWG over the last 4 weeks? I'm one week in to using the ChlorMaker (the non-FC-detecting one) and love it so far. Hands off FC addition is awesome. I also like the lower salt level required with these units, really can barely taste it (if you try!)...

Isn’t it best to adjust alkalinity first, and then usually pH in the process? esp before adding buffers such as borates?