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In case you want to stay with the same AS32 models. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ametherm/as32-2r025/2614388

You might have the wrong references. Pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is Positive 5Vdc. Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading This might give you some leads in troubleshooting your AQR bd.

I hope this video will help others troubleshoot their Aquarite Salt cell temperature sensor. AQR Salt Cell Temperature Sensor bypass

It should work for Aquarite. Try it! I have this old AQR mainboard sw r1.55 with a hacked 10k resistor soldered on the PCB to spoof the temp sensor. I move the jumper to the 10k resistor during cold months for uninterrupted chlorine production or remove the jumper to keep the temp sensor line...

On the Aquarite, you can isolate the thermister or disconnect the red or blue wire for testing. With the temp sensor disconnected, the controller will revert to the default fixed temp at 77°F.

I have to agree with JamesW, 2800 ppm is most likely incorrect. Get yourself a K-1766 Salt test kit. You need to understand that the salt cell when nearing the end of its useful life or if heavily soiled will give a lower salt reading than the actual salt level. You made the most common mistake...

Move the switch to the OFF position. Push the diagnostic button 2x. What's the voltage reading on the display? Is the power led illuminated for as long as the AC power is on? Or if you are confident working around electricity, get a voltmeter and measure the incoming AC supply between terminals...

Product ID getting stuck in AL-5 instead of the correct AL-7 in the diagnostics. Tell tale sign that EEPROM data is corrupted presumably caused by voltage spike or lightning. But you need to get the display bd going to confirm. Maybe you have a bad disp bd.

Is your pump running? Can you post the diagnostic readings? Can't remember if the 'No Flow' blinks on a RJ during the initial start-up. But the 'Click' sound you are referring to will happen exactly 10 seconds after the 'Generating' LED has turned on. Let's hope that this is not another AL-5 issue!

Fyi, the Hayward Aquatrol is shipped with a T-5 cell by default and the Cell type selection is not available in the diagnostics. However, other Aquatrol users in this forum have testified that upgrading the T-5 cell to a T-15 is feasible by installing a jumper wire across the J4 solder pads on...

Reseat the display bd and make sure the contact pins are sitting properly in place.

You have the newest Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL-RJ) sw r1.47 mainboard. The diagnostic readings suggested that the system is idle and chlorine production is suspended. You may want to change the unit from Metric to Standard. Start by pressing the ‘Diagnostics’ button one time. Once showing...

or Google search for "panel mount ac receptacle" and compare the dimensions. How about this one?

Looks like you're overthinking! The Aquarite and Aquatrol mainboards retain the Average Salinity reading and the cell maintenance minder, stored them in a non-volatile memory even after power is turned off. This information will change each time the system is turned on and put into service.

That's great! At some point, I was tempted to respond and offer my free services in repairing to include parts and possibly upgrade the sw to the newest r1.59 on this to whoever takes it. You are in the same region as me. Please do not hesitate to holler at me if you need help. Also, you may...

No need to replace the circuit bd either unless it's dead. You have the newest sw r1.59, it's a keeper. If you're having issues producing chlorine, focus your troubleshooting on the cell. Comparing the instant salinity readings between the preset start and stop run time will help you determine...

@OP, For us to help you better, please post the diagnostic readings and show us pictures of the controller board and salt cell.

What you have is the newest sw r1.59, the most reliable aquarite mainboard that you can find. Focus on the cell or get a replacement cell and test away. If the % dial and the display do not match or fluctuate, you have the following options. 1. Remove the disp bd and spray the potentiometer...

Not recommended but if you cut either one of the thermistor wires inside the cell, the controller will auto-revert to the default 77°F regardless of the actual water temperature. This approach will not harm the electronics. However, you're on your own on this if you want to get by producing...

A clear picture of the actual part with the part number is the key. In the interim, can you post clear pictures of the solder side focusing on the R48 section from various angles? It might be a long shot but perhaps the circuit trace would provide us a clue as to what the part is.

Try to recalibrate the cell while the system is initializing during startup. Place the switch to auto and push the diagnostic button to display -0.00. Wait for the relay to click (about 10 seconds after the Generating LED), quickly move the switch to Super Chlorinate and then back to Auto. This...

The aquarite mainboard can replace the aquatrol mainboard and vice versa. However, the aquarite mainboard requires a flow switch in order to function properly. The t-cell are interchangeable.

Yes. You just need to install a flow switch. Do not use the Aquatrol timer to power the motor pump or the swcg.

If you have the correct mainboard but AL-7 doesn't come up then you can rest assured the stored EEPROM data on it is corrupted. Either return the pcb or call in for a warranty if any.

Bad U13 chip.

That's because your VOM is auto-ranging. Be cautious in observing the unit of measurement. From your 1st post, TP-13 is 5 Vdc which is good. However, if TP-14 and header pin# 4 is 0 volt then most likely the U13 chip failed. When replacing the U13 chip, make sure the pins are soldered properly...

Can you please take pictures of the voltmeter readings and post them here? How can there be 22-24vdc if the supply line voltage is limited to 5 vdc at TP-13 output from the fixed 5-volt regulator (78M05)?