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10 ml water.

R-0871, and I'm starting to worry about running out.

I used one scoop of powder, and I did swirl. I don't have a speedstir (don't know what it is).

OK. My water is crystal clear for the first time in more than a week, which is good. But I'm getting weird chlorine readings. First, here is the results of the water testing I just did using the TF-100 kit: FC: couldn't measure CC: couldn't measure PH: 7.5 CYA: 60 TA: 80 CH: 200 When I...

I have the TF-100 test kit. The 4 pounds of CYA I added is supposed to raise my CYA to 30, given my pool size. And, yes, I know that the dichlor shock will also raise the stabilizer level, which I would like to get back up to 50 or so. The good news is that the water is clear this morning. I...

I am using the DPD drop test for chlorine. FC kept returning to 0, no CC. I was using dichlor shock and then switched to call hypo, because I was worried about my stabilizer going too high. Since this afternoon, I have put in 10 gallons of 6 percent bleach and 4 bags of dichlor shock to keep...

I have been struggling with cloudy water and no chlorine due to a combination of shutting off the pump for a couple of days to fix a leak, followed by my pump going bad due to a power brownout. So, I shocked with 3 bags of shock, only to find out there was no free chlorine the next morning...

Should I plug both the SWG control panel and pump into the outlet timer, or just the pump? I'm not worried about the electricity that the control panel uses, but wonder if it is better for the panel to be on all the time or get turned on and off with the pump.

I know lots of users here mention running their pool pumps only part of the day in order to save electricity. I get that. My Harris pump is 110V and has a three prong plug (I wired it that way since I have a GFI outlet by the pump). My Aqua Rite SWG control panel also has a three-prong plug...

I replaced my Hayward T-Cell-15 last month, and I didn't throw away the old one, which was nine years old and worn out. Does anyone buy old salt cells to refurbish/rebuild? I know saltsolutions rebuilds cells, and I sent them an email inquiring if they buy old ones. I don't see anywhere on...

Make sure to read the thread here: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/173066-Hayward-Aqua-Rite-No-lights-on-but-LCD-display-works-what-to-do

I figured I would post an update and conclusion. I ended up buying a new OEM Hayward T-Cell-15 and installed it. I think my old cell was still producing a little chlorine, but as James mentioned above, the low salt reading suggested that the old cell was on its last legs (I mentioned above it...

I didn't find a Taylor salt test kit, but I bought some salt test strips, which show my salt level to be around 3400, so the electronic readout is definitely low. I guess I might as well order a new salt cell. As I mentioned above, I plan to move in one to two years, so I'm hesitant to spend...

No, I didn't get a salt test kit yet. I already added a bag of salt. I'll see if I can find a test kit or strips tomorrow and measure the salt. Thanks again for your help.

James, Thank you very much for your advice here. I ended up ordering this kit on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/232797948461?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT It has the thermistor you recommended, plus two varistors and two 20-amp fuses. When I took my unit apart, the fuse in it looked OK. I...

I'll take it apart tomorrow and look inside and see if I can tell anything visually. Would a multi-tester tell me anything about the thermistor if it isn't visually cracked?

If I take off the front of the box, would I be able to visually see if that thermistor is bad? I don't have the K-1766 kit. I had some test strips, but they were really old so I threw them out. I guess I should get one or the other. Thanks regarding the sig line. I changed it to be accurate.

Diagnostic readings are: 2.70... 31... 5.0... 0.00... 35P... - 0.00... AL - 0... r 1.40... The display most recently indicated 2700 salinity and 88 degree water. I had kept the salinity around 2900 to 3000, but we got a lot of rain so I suspect it might have dropped down a bit to 2700. Or...

I have a Hayward Aqua Rite system, originally installed in 2009, on my 16,000 gallon in-ground pool. I am still using the original T-Cell-15 salt cell. I came back from a short vacation and saw that my water was getting cloudy. I figured that the salt cell finally died. I called Hayward, and...

Not yet. I am waiting until the swim season is over to drain the water below the return. Probably in early to mid September. I'll make sure to come back and post. Still open to any suggestions in the meantime, but I think waterproof epoxy to fix the actual leak, and then waterproof adhesive to...

Exactly what I was thinking. Good idea. I will do that tomorrow. Thanks.

No, the steps are surrounded by concrete that we just had a decorative surface applied to. I do not want to dig up any concrete. Am I correct in thinking that the rear end (dry end) of the fitting in the top left corner is glued to the underground pipes coming from the pump? So there is really...

In-ground vinyl lined pool, installed in 2009. I had a leak, which was getting worse and worse. I bought dye and figured out where the water was leaking - around the return fitting installed on the side of my built-in plastic steps. When I unscrewed the eyeball, the front part of the fitting...

I seem to have a slow leak, and want to figure out where it is. I've read posts about building a line pressure test "stick". I can build one over the winter, but am wondering if anyone has one they don't need and might want to sell. Perhaps someone built one and doesn't own a pool anymore. My...

I thought about doing that, but wasn't sure what to do about the flow sensor. If I remove the flow sensor, I can just connect the contacts? I was considering fashioning a section of pvc to insert where the cell goes so that the pump would run and the flow sensor would let the system operate...

I loosened up the plumbing ring just downstream from the cell, just enough to let a small stream of (just-chlorinated) water leak out. I can't see how that would hurt anything. But I agree with you that the FC level shouldn't change much before the water comes out the return. I do realize...

How much higher should the chlorine level be in a water sample taken directly from the cell (by loosening up the junction and capturing leaking water) or from water taken directly from in front of a return, when the SWG is running? I have a Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite system with a T-15 cell...

Update: OK, now I'm not sure whether or not my SWG system is working or not. I think it may be. I shocked the pool on Sunday night (two pounds in a 17k gallon pool) and the water cleared up. The chlorine level was over 10 on Monday. It dropped slowly to about 4-5 as of yesterday, with the SWG...