Hayward Aqua Rite - No lights on, but LCD display works; what to do?

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D

deanbrew

0
Aug 27, 2007
32
Central Pennsylvania
I have a Hayward Aqua Rite system, originally installed in 2009, on my 16,000 gallon in-ground pool. I am still using the original T-Cell-15 salt cell. I came back from a short vacation and saw that my water was getting cloudy. I figured that the salt cell finally died. I called Hayward, and after being on hold for 50 minutes, the tech told me that the lack of any lights (including the power light) on, coupled with the LCD still working, means I need a new circuit board. He told me the part number is GLX-PCB-RITE. Is he correct in his 1-minute diagnosis?

If he is, given the fact that my cell has gone through 10 swim seasons (about 4-5 months long here in PA) and the circuit board is bad, does it makes more sense to just install an entire new SWCG system instead of replacing the board and maybe needing a new cell right away anyhow. I saw a video on replacing the circuit board, and it looks easy. But... is it worth doing it on a ten year old unit with a ten year old salt cell? Are other parts going to go bad soon?

It looks like the circuit board costs $160 to $200 if buying online. A T-Cell-15 cell costs $450. An entire new system costs about $880 (including the cell) if I use Aqua Rite. Are there cheaper SWCG systems out there that I should consider? I see the CaliMar CMARSHA40-3Y 40k gallon system selling for $549.

FWIW, I plan on moving in one to two years, so I'm not all that worried about something lasting another 10 years.
 
What are the diagnostic readings?

What was the most recent salinity reading from the box when it was working?

When was the last salinity test not from the box?

Why does your signature say AutoPilot?
 
JamesW said:
What are the diagnostic readings?

What was the most recent salinity reading from the box when it was working?

When was the last salinity test not from the box?
Click to expand...

Diagnostic readings are: 2.70... 31... 5.0... 0.00... 35P... - 0.00... AL - 0... r 1.40...

The display most recently indicated 2700 salinity and 88 degree water. I had kept the salinity around 2900 to 3000, but we got a lot of rain so I suspect it might have dropped down a bit to 2700. Or perhaps that was an erroneous reading. I checked the salinity with strips at the beginning of the year and had it around 3000.

On a side note, how do I change the specs in my signature line? The specs indicated at the bottom of my post are incorrect.
 
It looks like the voltage is 5, which usually means that the thermistor is bad. If you can solder, you can get a new one at digikey. Part number SL322R025.

Or, you could replace the board (GLX-PCB-RITE).

To evaluate the cell, check instant salinity vs actual salinity as measured by a K-1766 test kit.

If the box reading is more than 800 below the K-1766 test, the cell is failing.

Also, the board got changed to metric. To reset, go to temperature and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

For signature click quick links, edit profile then edit signature.
 
If I take off the front of the box, would I be able to visually see if that thermistor is bad?

I don't have the K-1766 kit. I had some test strips, but they were really old so I threw them out. I guess I should get one or the other.

Thanks regarding the sig line. I changed it to be accurate.
 
James, Thank you very much for your advice here. I ended up ordering this kit on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/232797948461?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It has the thermistor you recommended, plus two varistors and two 20-amp fuses. When I took my unit apart, the fuse in it looked OK. I replaced the thermistor, but didn't do anything with the varistor. I couldn't see any cracks in the old thermistor, but when I tugged on it, it cracked apart in my hand.

I soldered in the new thermistor and put everything back together. When I connected the flow wire, salt cell cable and plugged in the power, the "power" and "generating" lights came on!! It gave a current salt reading of 2600, so I dumped in another bag of salt. I tested some water coming out of the pool return and it seems to be making chlorine.

But... and maybe I'm just nervous... can you look at the diagnostic readings I am getting now: 2600... 74...26.0... 4.96... 34P... - 2500... AL - 0... r 1.40...

Do they look right?

Thanks!
 
Ok, it's working now. I suspect that the low salinity reading is due to the old cell.

As the cell gets old, it begins to read the salinity lower than actual.

Don't add salt, yet.

You need to do an independent salt test. Did you get a K-1766 salt test kit?
 

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JamesW said:
Ok, it's working now. I suspect that the low salinity reading is due to the old cell.

As the cell gets old, it begins to read the salinity lower than actual.

Don't add salt, yet.

You need to do an independent salt test. Did you get a K-1766 salt test kit?
Click to expand...

No, I didn't get a salt test kit yet. I already added a bag of salt. I'll see if I can find a test kit or strips tomorrow and measure the salt.

Thanks again for your help.
 
I didn't find a Taylor salt test kit, but I bought some salt test strips, which show my salt level to be around 3400, so the electronic readout is definitely low. I guess I might as well order a new salt cell. As I mentioned above, I plan to move in one to two years, so I'm hesitant to spend $450 to $500 for a Hayward brand cell. I read some of the threads on replacement/generic salt cells, and the advice and reviews seem to be mixed.
 
I figured I would post an update and conclusion. I ended up buying a new OEM Hayward T-Cell-15 and installed it. I think my old cell was still producing a little chlorine, but as James mentioned above, the low salt reading suggested that the old cell was on its last legs (I mentioned above it has been used for 10 4-month seasons).

The new cell seems to be working just fine and is giving the following readings

While Generating............While Not Generating
3100..............................3100
69...................................69
25.9................................31.9
5.40................................0.00
100p................................25p
-3000...............................- 0
AL - 0...............................AL - 0
r 1.40..............................r 1.40

Thanks for everyone's help, and installing the thermistor (which cost $11 and included some other parts) seems to have been the answer.
 
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