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Unfortunately it’s still flashing. When it first went on, it was fine. Watched for 10 minutes, no flashing. Went back out, it’s flashing and...air bubbles in the pump now. Argh! I’m ready to go to plain old chlorine.

Here is the set up: The switch is how I create the timer... It’s between the IntelliChlor unit and power And both turn off at 6pm. The chlorinator is never on without the pump. thanks!

I’ve searched threads as best I can, so hope this is not redundant... Last Friday, I installed a z-wave smart switch and started running the pump and chlorinator from 9am to 6pm, but didn’t think to Increase the output percentage, so it was running only at 40% all week. I noticed the water...

Absolutely, I am on my way to SLAM level now. And, yes it was clear, up until this morning.

You guys are the best! I can’t believe how much I have learned here! Thanks again!

Thank you thank you! Boosting to 100%, but I am curious...if it is algae, and given that the water was up to 88 degrees, might well be, but when I test for cc’s, I get none...

The IC40 I purchased from Amazon and installed in 2016 has apparently died. All the lights make it appear as though it is working, but no chlorine is being produced. Fc=0, CYA=60, pH=7.5, TA=90; salt~3450 Pool was built in 2010; and this is the second SWG. Maybe Pentair isn’t my best choice...

Update: the new flow switch has been successfully installed. This was completed on Thursday. Today the water is cloudy. FC was 3.5, no cc'd. I added 1 gallon and a quart of 6% bleach. Salt was at 2690, so I added 80 lbs today and will check that tomorrow. I have two questions: when I...

Thanks for everything!!

I back wash when the pressure gets to 15-18 and afterward it's around 10, however I just looked and it's down to 5 but the jets are shooting out strong?

I tried using those the first time but they didn't work, although it is highly likely that I had something else wrong too. I was foolishly trying to do too much at once so I will retry them when I get the new switch. Back to the dirty filter...how does one diagnose that? They filter was...

I have a single speed pump so I don't think I can adjust the speed. I assumed that the flow switch might be indicating a cell failure, thus the question about a new cell. Unfortunately, when I was rechecking the flow switch, I cut the wire too close to where it comes out if the flow switch so I...

The red flow light is on and the salt lights are both flashing. This happened when we opened the pool in April and I replaced the flow switch then. It's been producing chlorine ever since. When I tested Sunday the FC level was 7 and then yesterday evening I went to turn off the pump for the...

Thanks... I was reprimanded for "hijacking" a post. ? it was unintentionally done because my question was about exactly the same subject and I was trying not to pollute the blog with too many posts about the same subject. That being said, is it the general recommendation that buying a...

Moved from here. I replaced my IC40 in April 2016 with a unit purchased from Amazon. This spring, the flow switch failed, I replaced it with a generic bought on Amazon. It failed this weekend. My water chemistry has been perfect for the last two seasons. I really don't want to spend...

No picture...The wire was crimped there and when I went to straighten it out to cut it, I could see tiny copper wires. I tried to go ahead and cut it to splice but there wasn't enough to work with, plus my son, who is an electrician, said the red wires looked burnt...they were not bright copper...

Except there was some tag stapled around the gray wire right where it comes out and there was a cut in the wire there.

The wires were too close to the plug to cut and reconnect. I guess I'll buy the new one. Thanks for everything!!

I can live with it reading 77 degrees. I can control the SWG by unplugging if the water temp is too low. However, stupid question alert: how do I know which is the thermistor wire, and if I cut it, then the thing will start generating chlorine?

So the flow switch won't help and I either have to buy another SWG or switch to something else? I am open to suggestions but would prefer not to have to buy a $700+ piece of equipment every two years!!!

I only have the aqua check strips. They show 2100ppm, which is low, I realize, but I didn't want to add salt if the thing isn't working. When I opened the pool I only had to add 2 gallons of bleach to get the FC up to 6, where it has remained until today, and it's down to 2 now. I was waiting...

The only light lot is the red low temp light.

I have unplugged to reset several times to no avail. Still getting the low temp light and my water is 68 degrees. When I push the more button for 3 seconds, it shows 20%, then when I press it again, the 40% and 60% lights are on. Is there any way to tell if this is a flow switch issue. This is...

Here are my numbers: FC 9.5 TA 60 CYA 40 pH 7.2 Water temperature is 54. Chlorinator is not on due to cold water temperature. Do I add stabilizer or baking soda first, or does it matter? No salt reading because I don't have any test strips and the closest store isn't open yet.

Thanks! Should’ve thought of that myself since I already add DE. I haven’t needed to backwash in while so it may be time to!

Water was absolutely perfect on Friday. TF 100 results: FC 5 cc 0 pH 7.5 CYA 70 Had a party on Saturday where various things were probably spilled in the pool by roughly 20 people who only left the pool briefly for 12 hours. Yesterday the water was starting to look less than perfect and this...

I have a SWG, so the chart says 24, but when I use the pool math app it says 27...thus my confusion. So I have erred to the high side . Also, the tf100 test kit tube for testing CYA may have lines only on the 10's, but there is a large gap between 40 and 50 so I was trying to give more details...

Got the tf100 on Friday. Numbers prior to SLAM were: FREE cHLORINE - 3.68 TOTAL CHLORINE - 4.17 CC - .49 pH - 7.5 Total Alkalinity - 124 CH - 116 CYA - 44 Salt - 3364 Numbers as of 1:30 this afternoon: FC - 21 CC - 0 CYA - 45 pH - who knows...so I didn't check alkalinity either... FC got down...

Update: Got the tf100 on Friday. Numbers prior to SLAM were as above: FREE cHLORINE - 3.68 TOTAL CHLORINE - 4.17 CC - .49 pH - 7.5 Total Alkalinity - 124 CH - 116 CYA - 44 Salt - 3364 Numbers as of 30 minutes ago: FC - 21 CC - 0 CYA - 45 pH - who knows...so I didn't check alkalinity either...

pool is 25,400 gallons. Test kit ordered. Thanks!