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Have you checked the voltage at the light, if voltage is normal then most likely the driver circuit built into the bulb is going bad,

Glad this has worked out for you

Make sure all your gas line valves are on, including the one inside the heater. Do you smell any gas at all when it is trying to fire up? For your plumbing leak, how about a "union"?

Thanks Jim, I did see this one but it did have some minor differences and unsure if it was just a model update since mine was 7 years old. BUT.... your link and additional research turned up this one and looks like a perfect match for the ring and the nozzle. Hayward SP1434 series Wall...

I had this spa for about 7 years or so and need to remove the jets for cleaning but I can not seem to ID the manufacturer/model of the jets to order the correct removal tool. I have search high and low on the web without getting a solid hit on the ID and hope someone here might recognize this...

Test .... A-OK :D

Your light itself may be faulty and allowing current to leak from either the hot or neutral side of the line into the water, which is why it is not failing when you tested it out of the water. This is not something the average homeowner/poolowner would be able to diagnose without the proper...

@BMK... this may be misleading as typically GFCI do not measure the ground conductor. What they do is compare the current on the two wires that feed the light, hot & neutral. If it sees a different current between them (about 5ma.) it trips the circuit. The theory is if the current is not equal...

The top timer only has 2 wire connections (besides the ground), and no on-off tabs, I doubt it was doing anything. The bottom only has the off tab which would have required it to manually started each day with an "off" programed for about 9:30PM . The times set is about 12 hours difference...

Is that with your regular pump turned on or off? I find if I put the blowers on without the pump it bubbles out over the edge but with the pump works well as expected. I autual use it without the pump tro make it overflow to get rid of excess water in the spa ;)

Do you have another capped off pipe by your equipment. my PB put in an extra pipe and it comes out of the ground =near my spa and the other end is by my equipment.... told me it was just a spare as the lines run about 100' from the equip pad

Here is one that mounts in a KO (knock-Out) on the panel and is weatherproof, similar to the one JoyfulNoise linked to There are many manufacturers of this type of protection rated for outdoors AG2083C3 - Intermatic You may want to add a ground rod as well. here are a bunch to choose from...

As pool equipment and its electrical distribution are typically long distances from the main distribution panel, it would be prudent to have suppression devices installed at your main and pool panel (and any other secondary distribution panel). Insure that you have good grounding practices in...

Not familiar with that pump but i would suspect it has either a float switch or other water detection device. After you gave it a bang is it operating properly in and out of the water?

See if this helps you. I also have a San Juan product and this is a link to the Atlantic on their website. There is a button there for "Tech Info" http://www.sanjuanpools.com/PoolsAndSpas/Fiberglass-Pools.aspx?fx=pools&order=Area%20desc,%20Volume%20desc&start=1&target=1 It does look a little...

Most are not made for wet locations, water may get in between the glass and the base and then you will have the rust issues

I don't understand your concern.... too high or too low? I have seen higher and lower for OEM part.

I see the vent panels are made of stainless steel, I would preshape the panel to fit the contour of the fire pit and use a carbide bit to drill, plastic anchors and stainless steel screws. Another thought is to mount it on the inside to hide it even better

No pics :(

Most likely the driver circuit in the bulb died, have you tried a new bulb?

What hayward switch are you talking about? Pool automation equipment/remote?

:goodpost: I agree, it is best and safer to have a proper transfer panel or interlock installed. All work should be performed by a licensed electrician.:rockon: If your main breaker is in your distribution panel you MAY be able to use an interlock kit, If your main breaker is in a separate...

Also against code and very unsafe :thumbdown: You have live power on a male plug.

Hey neighbor I'm a little confused here. Thread is about "Flow switches" but you are saying "water sensor", these are two different things Flow sensors are for the operation of the salt water chlorine generators while the water sensor sends back the temperature of the water (as sampled inside...

What wire did you change out ? power? something else? Have you rechecked all the wiring for the SWG to insure nothing got disturbed? Have you gone through the troubleshooting for this symptom on page 31 of the install manual...

What wire did you change out ? power? something else?

First thing is to check junction boxes for a corroded splice issue or at the transformer if both lights go directly back there. If splices all looked good then most likely it is the failing bulb.

Isn't that what the Flow switch is for? Presuming of course that the "Blueworks SWG system has a flow switch incorporated into its design.

I agree with Jim Saftron makes a good variety of products and because they are polymer no grounding is required, color choices as well I have had one for 5 years now without an issue Pool Rails

http://edc.poolsupplyworld.com/wpdf/maxetherm-ownersmanual.pdf Here is a copy of the manual, look at the troubleshoot steps on page 43 for SFS diagnostic