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I have had it for 2 years now, and I still get a small amount of the flakes. Nothing bad is happening, and it is still working great, and I love the water stability. - - - Updated - - - What about trying something like this? This will slice off the plastic, and should stay cool. I'd guess...

OK, I knew I'd get a good answer here. Thank you Marty! Amazing how much less chlorine I need now that it is back to where it belongs.

I had to turn up my SCG all the way up, and should not have to. My TFP SWG pool was at 70 CYA last year, and has, in fact, been 100% trouble free and crystal clear. So I checked my CYA level for giggles, but I was under the assumption you can’t lose CYA unless you lose water, which I have...

:-) happy this helped.

Pool is open warm and good. Pool continues to be very stable. I used about a gallon and a half MA over the winter. A total of about t gal a year. I check my my levels, empty the skimmer, empty the robot, and check my levels once a week. Maybe I adjust the SWG up or down 5% as it cooled off or...

I’ve used less than 4 gal MA in over a year post aquabright.

I'm struggling with basic chemistry, and/or basic understanding. Here is what I *think* I know: So, I have an SWG. H2O and NaCl. With the SWG, I get out chlorine, a base and an acid. Somehow that chlorine gas turns back to salt; but what about CCs "burning off" due to the sun? Is that...

I was wondering who and how this question would be answered. Nice Jim! it is surprising how badly I wanted to kee FC too low until I became TFD'ed (can that be a verb?) ;-).

1) TFP recommends liquid chlorine, or SWGs, NOT granular. Dry comes with other stuff you probably don't want, like calcium, or CYA.

Also, what is your: CYA FC pH CH TA CC ? do you have an FAS-DPD kit like the TF-100 or Taylor 2006?

Do you have a DE filter? Could be that. Put it some in a small cup and drip some Muratic Acid on it. If it bubbles it could be calcium deposits.

Since they usually have a pretty long cable (I think mine is 60'), you can put the power supply well away from your pool.i installed mine by burrowing under my deck with 1.5" conduit. This comes out at, basically, the center most location of my pool. Then I only need about 20' in the pool...

I do not use the fine filters. I find that the robot stirs up ultra-fine sediment into the water enough that my DE polishes off anything super fine, and then the robot has a little more suction power. In fact, if there were a coarser filter, I'd probably use that.

Thanks for fixing my post Jason! Exactly.

While you are trying to get a DPD kit, why not add bleach to at least slow down or reverse the algae growth?

Keep them around in case you have to take a trip. Your CYA will inch up when you use them though. Part of the reason why pucks are not a good long-term option.

I've got the Dolphin DX6 which is a powerhouse. I can hold on to it, and it will drive around with me holding my breath underwater. It has been 100% reliable, and it's only limitation is it can't get up on my first step which is about 6" of water. It tries, but cant operate in that little water...

I think I have to reset it and reprogram. and yes the automation is really nice!

Right. I could not get the ET to work correctly. When I engage nighttime cooling, it would start heating even when the set point is lower than current temp. Turn off nighttime cooling, and solar works correctly. The only think i ink I didn't try is telling it I had a heat pump. Maybe that is...

Worked really great. The downside is if I turn on cooling during the day, it will heat despite the thermostat not calling for heat. Lost about 8 degrees last night. Pretty cool, and an easy mod.

Ok, I hooked up a DPDT relay, created a "Cool" mode, and set it up for the next few nights. Let's see how cool I can get. I went with an 8 dollar relay vs Pentair. I used the relay to swap the red and white valve actuator wires. Then set cool mode for the right RPM, and scheduled for when my...

Is it Pentair? I learned a lot about when debugging an issue last year. I can help you make sure your PS is OK. If not I'll tap out.

Appreciate that discussion, helps me to pull the trigger on doing this hot ridding. I think I'm mostly settled on just using a DPDT relay to swap the sense of the valve, so at night I can have a "Cool" Mode that will also actuate the valve. Now if if I can just figure out why some parameters...

This may help. As soon as you add chlorine, you have added a tiny amount of salt, and that grows over time. I see you are in Tx so you may get enough rain where your pool overflows often, but I'm guessing not that often. Let's say you are using 8.25% chlorine and your pool used 2FC a day...

Completly awesome guys. So in that what I want can't be done, is good news because I won't chase the white rabbit any longer. I do have a DPDT relay I could use to make my own custom mode. I think I just have the relay swap the red and white wire, and that swaps the sense of the actuator. I...

All 3 for temp cal. Computer, SL config, or front panel. It will take, but not readily. Max team is not available on the computer screen, I believe this is a bug that Pentair acknowledges, but has not had enough people complain about. Sometime me I feel like I would be best off resetting...

Thanks Jim! So I am using both the front panel display and screen logic. Ive got about an 8 degree delta between starting pool temp and max gem in the heat menu. I *think* all is now good, it seemed to work last night with the exception that I used the wrong pool setting with too low am...

Anyone else experiencing some parameters that won't "take" until you try multiple times?

Ok, that helps. I think it may be that some settings don't take right away. If I remember to start the pump tonight, I'm going to see if it works. Sounds like it will do what I want, mostly, if I can figure out how to make it work. I have max them set to 75, so it should cool until it...