Please help with green pool. Newbie. Tried all guides

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M

mouserider

0
Aug 16, 2017
4
Limassol
Hi forum, i just moved to the house with a swimming pool and have decided to maintain it by myself. I knew nothing

So basically it was ok for monthes, untill i left for couple days, it was green when i came back.

I was using triple action chlrine tablets, ph minus, ph plus.

readings on time pool was green:

Chlorine 0
PH 7.4
Alkalinity 200

So i have read guides how to shock the pool (all of them =).
First i moved alkalinity to 110 with dry acid.
Then i raised PH (it dropped after dry acid ) to 7.2 back

Added 1.5kg granular chlorine (my pool is 42000 litres, or 10 000 gallons)

Pump on 24h (sand filter)
in 36 hours (it took way more, then i expected) pool was blue, but cloudy. i was happy, i have added some alkaecide

in 48 hours (PH, Chlorine, Alkalinity = normal) Pool went green again!

Shocked it again (1.2 kg of granular chlorine) > filter on non-stop
in 36 hours its still cloudy and green
Readings same
CChlorine above 3.0
PH 7.2
Alkalinity 110


P.S when i say pool is green,i mean it has no debris, and if i try hard, i can see the silhouette of bottom drain (deep is 1.8 metres)
P.S i tried to add periodically clarishock, algaecide with brightener. Nothing helps
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

What test kit are you using?
What is your CYA? Must know that to know the proper FC levels. See [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

What "guides on how to shock" are you reading? We do not have any guides because we do not recommend people "shock" the pool. We recommend following the SLAM Process process.

It sounds like you are throwing in a lot of "potions" that we never recommend ... like whatever clarishock is or algaecide.

I suggest taking a look at Pool School and starting with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
jblizzle said:
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

What test kit are you using?
What is your CYA? Must know that to know the proper FC levels. See [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

What "guides on how to shock" are you reading? We do not have any guides because we do not recommend people "shock" the pool. We recommend following the SLAM Process process.

It sounds like you are throwing in a lot of "potions" that we never recommend ... like whatever clarishock is or algaecide.

I suggest taking a look at Pool School and starting with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Click to expand...

Thank you!

Im using Deluxe 5 way test kit. So, to measure CYA, I will need to buy additional test kit.
Thank you for referring me to SLAMing, however, I have 2 questions if you dont mind.
1. So the whole process is about keeping FC levels (according to CYA) at shocking level for a week or so?
2. My test kit has max for FC as 5.0, how do I see if I got the FC to the correct Shock Level (e.x 20?) and how do I keep it there ?

Sorry for dummy questions.
 
First thing, you need to order a FAS-DPD test kit, which can accurately read FC up to 50ppm. Being out of the US, my understanding is that its a good bit more difficult to locate a proper test kit. If you know anyone in the US, you could order a TF-100 or Talyor K2006C and have them ship it to you, if you can't find a site that will ship it directly to you. The FAS-DPD and CYA tests are required to be able to SLAM your pool and rid yourself of algae. Both your target and SLAM level of FC is based on your CYA level, so without knowing your CYA level, you can't know what FC to target, and without a FAS-DPD test, you can't measure FC above 5 and you can't accurately measure CC either, which you need to test when you're though with your SLAM.
 
lightmaster said:
First thing, you need to order a FAS-DPD test kit, which can accurately read FC up to 50ppm. Being out of the US, my understanding is that its a good bit more difficult to locate a proper test kit. If you know anyone in the US, you could order a TF-100 or Talyor K2006C and have them ship it to you, if you can't find a site that will ship it directly to you. The FAS-DPD and CYA tests are required to be able to SLAM your pool and rid yourself of algae. Both your target and SLAM level of FC is based on your CYA level, so without knowing your CYA level, you can't know what FC to target, and without a FAS-DPD test, you can't measure FC above 5 and you can't accurately measure CC either, which you need to test when you're though with your SLAM.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a mission!
thank you, I will order it today, but cant wait 2-3 weeks with green pool, cant miss last day of summer
Shall I just then ask swimming pool maintenance to come for now? Or shall I mb just refill the pool ?
Literally you are the last hope, I have been in 3 local swimming pool shops and guys there know less than me. When I say green pool, they just say add this (algaecide or smth like this) and wait.
 
Have you ever added CYA to your pool? And add your pool info into your signature so we can see it easier.

- - - Updated - - -

Don't ever add algaecide to your pool. It isn't even meant to kill algae, and although it claims to prevent algae, it doesn't. All algaecide does is add copper which will lead to staining and other bad things. The only exception to this is Polyquat, which can be used to prevent algae over the winter, when your pool water is cold enough to help prevent algae too. Even that doesn't kill algae. The ONLY thing that does kill algae is high levels of chlorine.
 
Also, stop using dry acid. Muriatic acid is cheaper (in the US at least it is) and its much better for your pool. And stop using granular chlorine, the only recommended form of chlorine is liquid, either plain old concentrated 8.25% unscented non-splashless cheap bleach, or liquid chlorine 10% or 12.5%. All solid forms of chlorine add something else to your pool, either calcium or CYA, which while a certain amount is necessary for a pool, continuously adding it through granular or tabs will raise them to uncontrollable levels.
 
Welcome to the forum.

What exactly is this granular chlorine you are adding? Depending of the type of granular, you are also adding either CYA or calcium with the chlorine.
 
All of those ingredients are typically not recommended.

Are there any issues draining the pool and refilling?

You could try to find a pool shop that sells the CYA test while you wait for the proper TF-100 test kit. That could get us started but if you've been using those ingredients and having algae issues, you've probably got high CYA which will require at least a partial draining and filling anyway. Then we could help with the SLAM procedure.
 

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The granular chlorine is probably Calcium Hypochlorite (cal-hypo). The problem with it is it adds calcium to your pool and will get it high enough to get calcium scaling or rings around the water line.

Tablets add Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in addition to chlorine. This protects chlorine from the sun but at high levels makes your chlorine less effective. We would need a test of this to recommend enough chlorine. We recommend liquid chlorine (bleach) as it only adds chlorine and water.

Algaecides can add copper, silver or bromides which all cause problems and aren't recommended. Maintaining the correct amount of chlorine for your CYA will do better than almost any algaecide.
 
mouserider said:
This what i have

View attachment 67953
Click to expand...

What's the active ingredient in that CA Fast Solution Chlorine? I can't seem to find that online.

The pH Up really isn't necessary since a pools pH will climb naturally, and you use a ln acid like muriatic acid to bring it back down. The chlarishock and algaecide, I'm sorry to say, are a waste of money and should be thrown out. Is there anywhere local or or online with quick shipping that you can get at least a FAS-DPD and preferably a CYA test too? You have to have a FAS-DPD test to be able to measure higher levels of chlorine to SLAM it.

You can try adding 2 gallons of bleach today to get your FC above 15, and then a gallon each day until you can get a decent test.

- - - Updated - - -

What type of pool do you have? You need to add your pool info to your signature.
 
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