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Teflon tape or thread sealant was used to seal connector. Pump unions would solve this small issue. Threaded schedule 80 nipple would also allow a better leak free seal. 1. Best- use pump unions as stated in previous post. 2. Threaded schedule 80 pipe.

What is the model # of the new pump. Remove old fittings from previous pump (union piece) and screw to inside of new pump. Looking at photos it appears new pump will accept 2" outside or 1.5" inside fittings. Model # of new pump would help....

Another link for you. Not sure about draining water from filter first. Deep Cleaning Sand Filter Part 1 - YouTube

I concur, chop off white stub as close to valve body as possible. The 2" coupler will slip over valve body. Sorry about confusion. Sometimes a piece or stub of 1.5" pipe will remain but the 2" coupler will slip over this piece of pipe.

2" coupler will go over the 1.5" cut pipe and connect directly with pump coupling. HD or Lowe's should have these readily available. You may need to grind bump from 1.5 cut pipe.

Ditto.....drain spa into pool,clean spa- wet dry vac- refill with filtered water from pool. Works great on my pool/spa.

Jandy Neverlubes +++ they have lifetime warranty.

Manifold for Pentair FNS Plus D.E. Filter V38-140 Search on Amazon. I'm currently using this manifold and I highly recommend it. It comes with built-in air relief, read the reviews and description. Harry

There should be an O-ring located on the standpipe. Please replace this O-ring along with air relief fittings. If you have any torn or week filter grids, do yourself a favor and replace as a complete set. Lots of options for complete set replacement for under $200. There's also an option for...

"The Manifold looks good except the air relief hose is missing the grid cover looks like it degraded away." The air relief hose needs replacement for sure. If you're missing the grid cover this will allow DE to return via return jets to pool. If you open your filter to check for grid tears...

The three photo links are the same picture? If you're looking for something to turn the inside of the plastic adapter, try a large pair of channel locks.

If water is leaking from underneath motor where it meets pump housing, you have a shaft seal leak. The shaft seal needs to be replaced immediately. Don't continue to operate pump with a leaking shaft seal. Water will eventually enter motor housing and destroy your motor. If you're fairly handy a...

A picture of the wall fitting would help.... I've used a "sprinkler repair tool" to remove broken wall fittings...

Mine are not bolted to concrete pad. Most pumps in this area aren't bolted to pad. Ten years - no bolts.

Looks good to me, this side seats against the ceramic side of seal. That's a good job though finding this minor defect. That's something I love about this forum, it never hurts to ask. Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

The plugs need to be removed prior to module installation. Water enters the system - middle pipe- then moves through each cleaning zone via module. Each time the cleaning heads retract they will turn 1/4. Module definitely will not fit with plugs inserted. Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

Was your old seal threaded? If so, it looks as if you need new impeller. It all depends on your seal kit. Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

Seal plate and the go kit should have everything you need. Impeller should be installed snug , remember screw is reverse thread. Seal was leaking from rear of motor which likely caused your problems. Plumbing elbows are fine for a variable speed pump..... Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

The "spring" is part of the pump seal. One part mounts to rear of impeller and mates to the spring half. Ensure the seal on back of impeller is clean and not damage d. Clean with a clean rag " ceramic side" The impeller bolt is reverse threads. Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

I concur with previous post... "It is a little hard to tell, but I think the large middle piece of the union needs to turn to the right as seen in the above pic." Next loosen the wing nuts from top manifold piece. Manifold should be loose enough to wiggle free from grids, then remove grids...

The multiport valve gives you the most options. If you ever need to vacuum to waste , leaves, lots of debris, ... Slide valve is simple, but waste lots of DE during cleanups. Hopefully you'll follow TFP recommendations and never have problems. Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

If granulated conditioner/stabilizer used, it can take a week for accurate results. Which test kit are you using for testing? PH is low, TA is low.... Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Jandy valves have a lifetime warranty. You may try giving Jandy a call, couldn't hurt. You may receive a new valve. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Ditto to what kcindc posted. You can also purchase an inexpensive Submersible Pump from harbor freight. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Check orientation of check valve. I. E. Flow direction arrow for correct installation. A picture of your setup would help. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

I would check the plate seal first. Hayward pump correct? Provide model # and we can help you. Usually the pump seal will leak from the bottom of motor. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Looks good, paint looks like an almond color. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Ok if you want to use a union, use a hi temp union. The Grey pipe used in video is schedule 80 PVC not schedule 40. Very important to use schedule 80 for pump inlet and outlet to avoid leaks. Amazon.com: 2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2 Garden Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Possibly, I usually get mine at the local nursery supply. Looks like 2" threads from the outlet of your pump. If you follow the video you should be fine. Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk

Exactly as shown in the video. Ensure schedule 80, gray pipe, is used at discharge fitting. Buy a 12" double threaded nipped and cut as described in video. You"ll have a second nipple to use for a later repair.? Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk