Please help with new pump install

[kri5tian]

Hello Wise Ones,

I'm back yet again at the well, begging for advice. I'm trying to install a Harris H1572748 pump. It came with 2" and 1.5" couplers. I need to Google how to use these couplers. My existing pipes are 1.5". The pic below shows the where I cut out the old inlet. The valve that selects skimmer/main drain is right to the left of where I cut. The PVC piece that I cut has a small, raised circular portion, and that would prevent me from sliding any piping over it. View attachment 74631
The 2" coupler that came with the pump can screw onto the pump inlet, but, like I said, my pipes are 1.5".

Here is a pic of my overall setup:
View attachment 74632

The value on the left of the pump does not completely close the skimmer line (I can tell, because when I have only the main drain selected, and the waterline is low, the skimmer starts making a horrible air-sucking sound), so I think I should completly replace the valve. Here are pics of the valve - with the top removed, and of the removed 'flap' that serves to block the lines: View attachment 74633View attachment 74634 [Sorry for the small pictures, but this forum really limits the file sizes!!!].

It seems like I have no choice but to move the pump to the right and chop off a portion of the existing outlet PVC. I can do that. However, I don't know how to connect the pump to the outlet PVC. The pump has an outlet hole with threads. Will Home Depot or Lowes sell a PVC pipe that fits those threads?...then I can simply screw into the pump's outlet then use primer/glue on a connecting piece?

My BIG question is how in the heck do I connect the pump to the inlet portion?...especially considering there is that raised circular bump on the PVC. I want to replace the valve (so I can completely block skimmer/drain when I want to), but I don't really have much room to work with. Futhermore, the pump's inlet is 2" when my pipes are 1.5".

I have worked with PVC before (I had to fix an underground leak once...I've had to repair sprinkler lines, etc), so I don't want to pay someone to do this. I almost feel like cutting the pipes right where they come out of the ground and starting from scratch...but my pool is turning yellow, and I have a leak that just cannot seem to be found...so I really need to get this water running through my filter again!!!

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!

 

[PoolguyinCT]

The valve body will accept a 2” coupler on it’s outside diameter. Chop of the white fitting & start gluing to the valve.

 

[crudsrus]

The valve body will accept a 2” coupler on it’s outside diameter. Chop of the white fitting & start gluing to the valve.

2" coupler will go over the 1.5" cut pipe and connect directly with pump coupling. HD or Lowe's should have these readily available.
You may need to grind bump from 1.5 cut pipe.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

No - chop off the white stub.

 

[crudsrus]

No - chop off the white stub.

I concur, chop off white stub as close to valve body as possible. The 2" coupler will slip over valve body. Sorry about confusion. Sometimes a piece or stub of 1.5" pipe will remain but the 2" coupler will slip over this piece of pipe.

 

[kri5tian]

My phone didn't notify me folks had replied. Thanks so much for your instructions! You are absolutly correct. Two 2" couplers and two 1.5" couplers came with the pump (imagine that - a manufacturer providing essential installation equipment with their product!!!), and a 2" coupler fits over the valve. View attachment 74656

So, I guess I shouldn't try to replace the valve? Or maybe do that at a later date? I think I can keep manually swirling bleach with my brush in order to combat algae until new valve arrives.

Two more questions that you guys probably know the answers to.
1) Here is a picture of a 2" coupling: View attachment 74657 The one on the bottom rests on the lip (that I've pointed out in red) of the one on the bottom. Do I need to put glue on that lip? The one on the bottom will slide over the valve then butt against the one on the top's red lip, then I screw the one on the top to the pump's inlet. I know I need to prime/glue the one on the bottom over the valve; then I need to put an o-ring (which also came with the pump) in the middle strip of the one on the bottom. I think that does the job of sealing the water?...i.e. no need to put glue on the bottom's red lip, right?

2) Would Home Depot or Lowe's sell something that screws into the pump outlet?: View attachment 74662 The pump's outlet has threads on the inside, whereas the pump's inlet has threads on its outside.

Again, thank you so much for all your advice. The house was built in 1986 and the valve might be that old, for all I know. Maybe it's time for me to replace the value because I REALLY would like the ability to suck from only the main drain at certain times. This leak is driving me crazy. I've called a guy out three times. I want to let the water leak out and see if there comes a point where it stops. That will give me a clue where the leak is. But to use that strategy, I need the ability to suck from the main drain only.