Search results

When opening with intention to vacuum all pool debris to waste, does it make more sense to add DE after vacuuming all debris to waste or OK to charge before?

How tight do you tighten the filter drain plug when reinstalling? I was able to keep mine from leaking by going hand tight.

Every year at opening I drive myself crazy stopping every single minuscule drip. Only to realize that I’ve been putting up with dripping faucets in the house all winter. Who else?

That's what I will do. Figured that was probably the most accurate but hated to backwash new DE.

I just opened my pool and a day later had to replace my Pentair FNS plus drain plug. A lot of water and of course some DE came out. I know there are recommendations for how much to add after back washing but this doesn't appear to be the same. I would assume a lot of DE still clung to the grids...

No. Mine is a bit different looking. The filter was new in 2007 so it appears they have changed the design. Mine looks like this. Click here.

While cleaning my FNS plus 36 DE filter yesterday I noticed that the clamp that holds the air bleeder on had deteriorated and no longer worked. I didn’t have another one so I used a zip tie for the connection and got it as tight as I could. How will I know if this connection fails inside the...

OK. I'll keep an eye on the pH. It's strange because my fill water has a pH of about 7.2 and that was what the pool was testing a couple days ago after the water exchange. Then it shot up to 7.8 overnight.

I just lowered the pH from 7.8 to 7.5 overnight with Muratic acid. I just recently drained and refilled much of my water so I am learning the behavior of this new water. My fill water is very high TA. So last night was the first time I added acid to lower pH/TA.

I have read conflicting advice on whether to be concerned about TA levels or not. My understanding is that you shouldn't be concerned unless you have a high CH level. Is this correct? My current TA is around 270 which is very high and CH is 110. I have been fighting cloudy water and have also...

OK. Thank you.

FC 24 CC 0 PH 7.5 TA 270 CYA ? I am waiting on reagent to arrive Monday. Should be under 50 for sure based on last known results and further draining.

I tried both suggestions, the video and using tap water. The test behaved basically the same way. Turned slightly pink, never red. And then eventually went back clear, never blue.

I can’t figure out why my CH test doesn’t correspond to the results the instructions say should occur in the TF-100. After adding the R0011L the water only turns slight pink. It never does turn blue but it does go back clear after 10 drops of R0012. See pics below. What does this mean? My...

I don’t think I have any DE escaping. I’ve filled a bucket from the pool slide and I found nothing in the bucket. Water is somewhat clearer after filter running overnight but not as clear as I would like:

I have not replaced MPV.

I disassembled the grids and cleaned just as I do every year. Grids are about 3 years old. I tested FC level and it is 12. The water turned cloudy instantly so that water had to come from the filter.

I meant there is no DE leaking into the pool.

I have been fighting a cloudy pool for a week. It shifted overnight basically. After testing I was told to reduce CYA to 30. So I spent the last 2 days draining while filling. Unfortunately I ran out of CYA reagent but based on my calculations and estimates I should be close to 30-40. I have to...

OK. Makes sense. You probably meant R0013 however?

OK. I am curious how the CYA grater than 90 test works without reagent.