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TA is 75/80, put the original baskets back in yesterday, checked today, PH didn't budge. I may have the Skim A Round skimmers set to high and like you mentioned earlier I may be getting air from the vortex created by the skimmers. Haven't had a chance to check the pool TA today.

I started using these skimmers this year, I was wondering if anyone has experienced a slow rise in PH level with the skimmers. It seems like my PH slowly rises from 7.4 to 7.8 over a period of four days and TA seems to follow, CH stays the same, this didn't happen last year when I was using the...

no reason for 7.4 seemed like a middle of the road value, TA doesn't fluctuate much generally stays between 70 & 80. Thanks for your help.

Over the last couple of days my PH is slightly higher in the morning, I am running a heat/cool pump overnite to cool the water off, could that be the source of additional aeration and causing a rise in my PH, reading in the morning is 7.6. I keep the PH at 7.4, TA 80, CH 250 and CYA 75.

I use - pool calculator - on line I don't save the readings, I have a note book that I keep of my tests. my last CSI was -0.02

Yes , always right on and use the TF 100 test kit and additional Taylor test kits as well

Okay, for some reason, when I open the pool in the spring the pool surface (plaster) is a bit rough and I hate draining the pool and polishing it again, I thought is was because of the PH. so something else is causing it to be rough. Any thoughts on that?

TA is 80, CH 300 I thought it was the hi PH that was causing the problems? I will have to re think that.

Every year when I open the pool after being closed for the season my PH is always off the charts, and scaling is an issue. I am thinking about lowing my PH to 6.0 just before closing to see if that helps with the rising of the PH over the winter.

Ok thank you. I haven't put any salt in yet water is not high enough to circulate

with tfp test kit. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, new plaster and wetting down the surface.

with tfp test kit

I am refilling my pool, it is a salt water pool but have not added any salt yet. My question is - my calcium hardness is 125 so it needs to come up to 200 now the pool calculator says to add calcium chloride, but if I do that then add my salt will that spike my calcium hardiness readings?

At the water line the plaster is really rough and flaking off, (looks like chaffing, maybe) had ice for most of the winter. I never had this problem before during any previous winters, but this winter was unusually cold and thought their may be a connection because of the ice. - - - Updated - -...

I was starting to wake the pool up today after a long harsh winter in Michigan, a few popped tiles, (not that unusual) but what really caught my eye was the damage to the forward bulkhead of the pool, I have never had or seen damage like this before and I am not sure if it was caused by the ice...

Then, I agree with you guys as well

Just curious, with the fourth of July so close, has their been any studies or available information on the effects of all that gunpowder possibly landing in your pool? Will it effect the chemistry or balance?

James, just wanted to get back to you all let you know problems are diminishing and right now I am running at 18% output, FC is stabilized and my specific gravity is 3300. Thank you for all your help

Thanks James, I'll check it out now

I am doing the SLAM now. Been a crazy day, trying to also figure out why their is such a big difference with the swg salt reading and the Bioguard Alex test which was 2100, the swg was reading 3100, I talked with the people at Hayward support but I never got a clear answer and they wanted me to...

So I did the OCLT test over night, FC reading was 3.5 when I shut down the swg, tested this morning and reading was FC 2.5. I took a water sample this morning just to verify my results and their reading was 0.5 different, FC 2.0. Now the real puzzle to me was their salt reading at 2200, my swg...

Thank You James, I will test and shut off the swg tonight if fc reading is in proper range for the test. I will let you know what happens in the morning.

I currently have the pool covered as the temp is dropping into the low fifties tonight, I am assuming I need to do the OCLT with the pool uncovered?

I don't have an alge bloom and cc readings is o.o, do you think something else is going on that would need a SLAM?

I will give that a try, I guess it needs a kick in the behind. Thanks for your your input.

Thanks, should have included in first post. Salt 3000, temp 80, cell volts 25.9, cell current 6.28, AL 2, t 15

I am stuck here. I installed a new Hayward T 15 cell and a new PCB (GLX-PCB-RITE - Rev 1.59). the old PCB was 1.58 Rev. My question is... I am having a problem with the chlorine output, I would normally run the SWG at 12 to 15% all last year, but since I have installed the new cell and PCB I am...

I use 3 cups per 12 square feet of filter area so I use 12 cups of cellulose when I clean the grids. I also, like yourself use 9 cups after backwashing. I took some pictures after my last cleaning, just need to figure out where to post them.